4" vs. 5.5-6" lift
4" vs. 5.5-6" lift
I have a friend looking to lift her 2004 Dodge Ram 2500. She had a 4" lift on her older 2000 Dodge Ram and was planning on doing 4" on her new truck, but one of her clients just offered his used (for two months) 5.5" lift at a very cheap price, along with his 22" rims. She plans on running 37's on these rims.
She's questioning whether or not she should go the extra 1.5 inches. Besides height, is there a considerable difference on wear and tear of ball joints, and other similar items? Would she need to get longer brake lines with the 5.5" vs the 4" lift? Is there anything that she should definitely do if she decides to go with the 5.5" lift? I've read several posts where people suggest upgrading to the correctly sized/valved Bilstein shocks rather than using the ones that come with the lift. Also, is it recommended she get a single or dual steering stabilizer with this lift?
Any thoughts and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
I've thoroughly enjoyed being a member of this site for the last year or so. I've mostly been a lurker, reading posts and doing searches on the info I've needed, and have always found answers to any of my Ram related questions. Thanks again to everyone that participates on this site!
Jared
She's questioning whether or not she should go the extra 1.5 inches. Besides height, is there a considerable difference on wear and tear of ball joints, and other similar items? Would she need to get longer brake lines with the 5.5" vs the 4" lift? Is there anything that she should definitely do if she decides to go with the 5.5" lift? I've read several posts where people suggest upgrading to the correctly sized/valved Bilstein shocks rather than using the ones that come with the lift. Also, is it recommended she get a single or dual steering stabilizer with this lift?
Any thoughts and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
I've thoroughly enjoyed being a member of this site for the last year or so. I've mostly been a lurker, reading posts and doing searches on the info I've needed, and have always found answers to any of my Ram related questions. Thanks again to everyone that participates on this site!
Jared
Last edited by jaredb900rr; Aug 9, 2006 at 06:41 PM. Reason: added info
Normally, Jared, I'd recommend the 4" lift. I'm from SoCal and love the desert racer (or prerunner) look - a mild lift with larger tires. But with 22" rims and 37" tires its going to be more "show" than "go", so she might and well get the 6" lift.
Personally, I like the smaller rim with big tire, but she has her heart set on these 22's, and I agree, I think the bigger lift is gonna look much better with the big rims.
It's definitely gonna be a more show than go, but it does get put to use towing her snowmobile and making many trips up the canyon to go snowboarding.
It's definitely gonna be a more show than go, but it does get put to use towing her snowmobile and making many trips up the canyon to go snowboarding.
for what its worth, if I quit towin as much with a gooseneck, I am doin 6"s and 37s.
I see no reason not to do the 6 if she was plannin on runnin 37s anyway.
The shocks cant be any worse than factory so I wouldnt worry about that unless she just wanted to.
Sterin stabilizer has more to do with tires than lift. The genral guideline is up to 35" a single will work and 35" and over a dual is recomended. But if you get the tires right there should be no need for a stabilizer at all it is really just a bandaid.
I see no reason not to do the 6 if she was plannin on runnin 37s anyway.
The shocks cant be any worse than factory so I wouldnt worry about that unless she just wanted to.
Sterin stabilizer has more to do with tires than lift. The genral guideline is up to 35" a single will work and 35" and over a dual is recomended. But if you get the tires right there should be no need for a stabilizer at all it is really just a bandaid.
The taller lift will put more stress on the steering components first and fore most. Anything over 3" and you need to start addressing issues that come up. Caster, trac bar, etc. Also, the driveshafts will be working at greater agles (increased wear) and finally if the kit uses stock control arm mounts, the ride will be more harsh. Then there are practicalities to consider; the truck will sway more and the higher center of gravity will hurt driving perfomance, towing abilities, braking.
now the differnce betwwen the two probably isnt much to worry bout over stock but still some things to consider.
now the differnce betwwen the two probably isnt much to worry bout over stock but still some things to consider.
U can still pull a gn trailer with 5.5 and 38s. i know this because everytime my D@mn ford breaks i have to call my buddy with this setup. if its a smokin deal then take the money she has saved and put it towards the balljoints if they go, or stabs. or what ever else she might need. but what do i know.
logan
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Go with the 6"
There is no way she will clear 22's and 37's. I clear 20's and 37's with a 6" lift. I love it I don't think I would have gone any other way. I don't tow a gooseneck but I tow a 30' enclosed trailer to work all day long and have not had any Issues since I put the lift and tires on and I now have 27,000 on with the lift and tires.
Shane
[img]https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/38197lift11.jpg[/img
Shane
[img]https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/38197lift11.jpg[/img
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From: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe
Originally Posted by Luvnacumns
There is no way she will clear 22's and 37's. I clear 20's and 37's with a 6" lift.
I can guarantee that he beats his truck harder than anybody else here....he uses it to torture test his parts.
Originally Posted by nriver
i run 37s with a 3" front, little rear. I did do some fender mods, not much. Pics on file.
I guess i am saying no need to go that high for that size tire.
I guess i am saying no need to go that high for that size tire.
My "hacked" $40K truck
To move the bottom of the fender backwards you open up the mounting hole on the two bottom fender mounts.


I also straightened the lower part of the fender, again not a big deal.

Then you just move the fender back. You end up with less of a gap than before, no real big change. No rubbing.

Finished version of the Hack

:
To move the bottom of the fender backwards you open up the mounting hole on the two bottom fender mounts.


I also straightened the lower part of the fender, again not a big deal.

Then you just move the fender back. You end up with less of a gap than before, no real big change. No rubbing.

Finished version of the Hack

:



