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Rough idle then CEL came on???

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:54 AM
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Rough idle then CEL came on???

Hello Everyone,

This is my first post, but have been on your site many times in search of information to assist me in my truck purchase. After giving up trying to find a good 2007 Dodge 2500 with a 5.9L, I purchased a 2007.5 with 80,000 km.

Here is my problem. I changed the oil and filter yesterday (Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel) and started the truck as usual to let it idle. No problem. A few hours later when I started it, the engine sputtered for 3-4 seconds as it idled and then returned to normal. I then noticed that CEL was on. I retrieved the code (P2563). I drove the truck with no noticeable power problems or unusual noises.

I must state that before purchasing the truck I mistakenly put 4 gallons of LSD in tank. I have run 700km (ULSD) with the truck since with no problems. Could this cause CEL?

I believe the code (P2563) is indicating a turbo cleaning is in order. In speaking with the previous owner he had a turbo cleaning at 30000km and was told by the dealer to use EB 24/7, which he did with no problems. I have not. If the turbo is sooted up, can it be cleaned by turning the EB back on and running it on the highway for a while? Also, can I reset the light without taking it to the dealer or will it reset itself?

This is my first diesel and I must say I love the power!

Thanks

Note: Living in Ontario a delete is not an option for me because the fine is too heavy.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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Running that small of an amount of ULSD will not harm the system. I was told by several Cummins engineers that you can run an entire tank or so without any adverse affects if the need absolutely needed (such as lack of ULSD). They just advised to run the truck as hard as possible to keep the EGT's up and the regen working passivly, and to go back to USLD as soon as possible.

The code P2563 is the has to do with the turbo vane position sensor. Running with the EB on is a good idea, Id say on a stock truck to do so at least 75% of the time to keep the slider nozzle working and prevent it from sooting up. First thing I would do is get out on the road and give it a good hard run with the EB on. Lots of accelerating and stopping, make sure the turbo gets a work out, and see if that helps anything. You may need to clear the code and see if it pops back up.


If that doesnt help anything it may require cleaning, or could be a faulty sensor. This should be covered under the Cummins 5yr 100000 mile warranty, and as you are stock I would consult with a dealer that you trust.

Good Luck!
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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I'd do what Blake said too. Get up to a good temperature with the EB on with some starting/stopping and such. Get it up to speed and then downshift (assuming you have an auto) with the manual paddle to get than EB in the turbo to really work and hopefully this will clean out. CEL can easily be reset with a cheap OBDII tool which I would suggest all to have. As stated, you should be able to go to the dealer for this item and have it covered and looked at.

Note sure about the fines in Ontario, but they are heavy in the US too. It is a federal crime. However, the risk and benefit of this for me leans towards delete. Unless one is an idiot, you should not have any issue. Now-a-days, and with a Smarty 6.7ME there aren't the smokey red flags saying anything.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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Thanks gentlemen. I took it out on the slab today for a good run. The light remained on until I shut it off. I decided to quickly turn the key 3 times to see if it would reset the code. I have no idea what happened, but the CEL remained off when I started it.

Regarding the deletes. I checked into it and they want $2700. I would do it if I could block the EGR components via stealth. Messing around with the exhaust is also confusing to me. I have no idea what to do with the 2 lines that run to the exhaust pipe.

Thanks again.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by longhauler
Thanks gentlemen. I took it out on the slab today for a good run. The light remained on until I shut it off. I decided to quickly turn the key 3 times to see if it would reset the code. I have no idea what happened, but the CEL remained off when I started it.

Regarding the deletes. I checked into it and they want $2700. I would do it if I could block the EGR components via stealth. Messing around with the exhaust is also confusing to me. I have no idea what to do with the 2 lines that run to the exhaust pipe.

Thanks again.
Check this out. It is very easy and inexpensive to do the minimal like I and some others have done, slealth like. Just need a delete pipe that bolts in/out and do some disconnections:

http://www.madselectronics.com/CodeF...EGRDelete.html

I think I spent about $850 to $900 for the programmer and pipe. This was before the Smarty Jr. which is less expensive. Someone on here went to a muffler shop and had a pipe with a flange made for like $60 bucks. That's it!
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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It's definitely something I will consider after my warranty expires.
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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2700 is highway robbery. You can go all out with full deletes, Smarty and new 5" TBE for under 1500.....
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 01:52 PM
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The key is finding someone up here to do it for that price. I may have to start acquiring the pieces and paying somebody for their installation expertise.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 08:18 PM
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
Originally Posted by longhauler
The key is finding someone up here to do it for that price. I may have to start acquiring the pieces and paying somebody for their installation expertise.
Installation of the deletes is simple. Do some research. If you have a set of simple hand tools no need to pay someone.....
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 12:28 AM
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You can do it if you have a screw driver and some basic sockets/wrenches. Get your delete pipe and Smarty and you're done if you want. Full deletes are simple too if you have a bit more $ and time. Sounds like you don't want to get ripped off and we can understand. We're here to help ya out. Just let us know what ya need besides our physical presence (unless we're close by that is).
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 05:14 AM
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
Originally Posted by mega-engr
You can do it if you have a screw driver and some basic sockets/wrenches. Get your delete pipe and Smarty and you're done if you want. Full deletes are simple too if you have a bit more $ and time. Sounds like you don't want to get ripped off and we can understand. We're here to help ya out. Just let us know what ya need besides our physical presence (unless we're close by that is).
You got that right,


If you happen to be anywhere withing an hour or so of one of the locations in my sig, PM me, Ill take a lil drive on a day off to help you out bud.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 05:41 AM
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Thanks boys. I just may have to plan a detour on the way down to Florida for spring vacation!..Ha ha
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:20 PM
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One last question. Other than removing the DPF, what other safe deletes can I do? I'm not sure if this is appropriate, but I found a post from 2008 from another forum with pics. Given that the 6.7 has been out for 3 years, I'm not sure which procedure is now proven to be the best.

Here is the link if the Mod allows.

Thanks

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/6-...ns-w-pics.html
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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From: Home: Kaplan, LA - Pipelining In: Pecos, Tx
I would delete the EGR and the EGR Cooler and the Throttle valve.

That post is good info but there is a slight difference when installing the throttle valve delete. If you decide what all you want to let us know and we can walk you through it.
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Old Jul 5, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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Ok. Thanks.
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