Pyro Probe Installation
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Pyro Probe Installation
When drilling and tapping exhaust manifold , those that have done it , did you keep the engine running while doing the work to blow out any chips being created? I need to do it next week and want to be as safe doing so as I can. Any advice?
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Lots of people have done it lots of different ways, and have all seemed to have success with whatever way they have chose. IMO, working on a running engine is dangerous, too many hot and moving parts for me. Use a quality drill bit and tap, use cutting oil on the tap, and remove any shavings with a small magnet. Put anti-seize on the thermocouple threads in case it ever fails, will make it easier to remove and replace. My .02.
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Here's my.02. It's kinda long but maybe it might give you a better idea. What ever you do, just make sure there is no metal fillings/chips left inside the exhaust man., if there is you'll find out soon enough.
I drilled the hole with two steps down from the recommended drill bit (been awhile and can't remember the size) didn't go through, very carefully drilled til I just barely broke in/through. I did the next step up drill bit the same way. Then with the tap til I hit the bottom of the hole that I didn't go through. I then used my shop vac to get everything. I then used a drill bit that I used the second run being careful not to hit the threads and drilled through ( I dipped the drill bit in grease 1st to catch the fillings) after drilling through, I used q-tips dipped in grease to pick up what got through(found a few).I packed the hole with grease so no metal filings would get through, with each process I cleaned the grease out with q-tips, I'm very careful. I'd rather spend the time doing that than replacing the turbo 'cuz I didn't get every piece out. I had the tap covered in grease too and while tapping (like a couple turns), I'd clean the tap with brake cleaner then grease it up again. After finished tapping, I used my shop vac. to suck out the grease, then use q-tips to finish cleaning. I got all the grease out and used the vac. again. This process took about an hour and on a COLD motor.
I drilled the hole with two steps down from the recommended drill bit (been awhile and can't remember the size) didn't go through, very carefully drilled til I just barely broke in/through. I did the next step up drill bit the same way. Then with the tap til I hit the bottom of the hole that I didn't go through. I then used my shop vac to get everything. I then used a drill bit that I used the second run being careful not to hit the threads and drilled through ( I dipped the drill bit in grease 1st to catch the fillings) after drilling through, I used q-tips dipped in grease to pick up what got through(found a few).I packed the hole with grease so no metal filings would get through, with each process I cleaned the grease out with q-tips, I'm very careful. I'd rather spend the time doing that than replacing the turbo 'cuz I didn't get every piece out. I had the tap covered in grease too and while tapping (like a couple turns), I'd clean the tap with brake cleaner then grease it up again. After finished tapping, I used my shop vac. to suck out the grease, then use q-tips to finish cleaning. I got all the grease out and used the vac. again. This process took about an hour and on a COLD motor.
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On mine, it's 3/8ths. I drilled the final hole with a 5/16ths drill bit then used a 5/16 tap and worked up to the 3/8ths as I described above. My taps are narrow tipped so I can do that.
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I drilled mine using grease on the bit and took it slow. Going through the manifold I didn't get any chips just a fine powder. I did fire up the engine when it got close to penetrating through. I wore welding gloves to protect my hands and goggles to protect my eyes. When I tapped the hole I used lots of grease and cleaned it out after every turn or so. I have since had no problems and my boost has reached and held 30 psi when pulling long grades.
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I have some mods.and I've held 40lbs. of boost steady for about 3/4-1 mile going 50 mph in a 45mph going up a 7-10% grade towing my trailer/car (app.7000#'s) with 1230 egt's.
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