Dodge Deals Right Now
06-15-2009, 10:34 AM
#17
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Thanks for your replies. I am really torn between selling mine and buying a new one or keeping what I have. I felt like the DRW would be better pulling the 5th wheel since we will be traveling a lot more once we retire. I guess I have some more thinking to do about this.
http://www.junk-yards.net/dodge.htm
Here is a link with a long list of Dodge Salvage Yards.
06-26-2009, 11:43 AM
#18
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I just bought an '09 3500 Laramie with DRW, have not picked it up yet. List price was 52,540.00, I am paying 40,670.00 with 4,000.00 Dodge rebate for SE region and 1,000.00 customer loyalty rebate. The rest of the discount is dealer incentives.
Who makes the 68RFE transmission?
You can find the Dodge rebates for your region by going to their website.
Who makes the 68RFE transmission?
You can find the Dodge rebates for your region by going to their website.
06-26-2009, 12:30 PM
#19
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I just bought an '09 3500 Laramie with DRW, have not picked it up yet. List price was 52,540.00, I am paying 40,670.00 with 4,000.00 Dodge rebate for SE region and 1,000.00 customer loyalty rebate. The rest of the discount is dealer incentives.
Who makes the 68RFE transmission?
You can find the Dodge rebates for your region by going to their website.
Who makes the 68RFE transmission?
You can find the Dodge rebates for your region by going to their website.
Your '05 should bring more on trade if it does not have excessive mileage.
06-27-2009, 11:02 AM
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I think you have a hard decision to make. I bought an 08 2500 and have only had one check engine light with my stock setup. I had the dealer read the code and since I was leaving town towing 15k they said I'd be fine cause it just needed to get hot enough to clean out the emissions (problem solved). Now the recent flash has made a lot of progress to fine-tune the truck to be trouble free. I wasn't towing in a long time and this was when the fine-tuning wasn't dialed in- these 6.7 are made to be used like a truck, not driven around the city. You should be fine because of how much towing you plan to do.
I have the 3.73 gears and tow 15k often without issue. I did however add a
Mag Hytec diff cover (soon a Mag hytec trans pan) that adds additional fluid capacity for extra cooling when towing. I would recommend them to prolong and protect these expensive components. It's an easy mod to do if you can turn a wrench.l
All the issues have been identified and have all but been eliminated by the most recent flashes by Chrysler. You'd be getting into a beautiful truck that many people, the dealerships, and Chrysler have worked hard on to solve the issues that these tightened emissions systems have caused.
If you get the 6.7 UNPLUG THE EGR. That is the concensus among the experts. Read all about it first.
You'll be happy whatever direction you go, just don't take the opinions of people who gave up without searching for the answers, bought the truck to drive for the wrong reasons, and the EPA mandated emissions learning process falsely sway you to not strongly consider the 6.7 beast. I love mine. You are doing the right thing by researching and asking for feedback. Just keep in mind many naysayers don't own one, or haven't taken the appropriate steps (get the most recent flash update, you should ask for this before you leave the lot and you'll probably not need to do it again cause of all the previous research completed) to deal with the root cause of the early emission issues that have troubled all of the vehicles that have had to adapt to the EPA mandates.
I have the 3.73 gears and tow 15k often without issue. I did however add a
Mag Hytec diff cover (soon a Mag hytec trans pan) that adds additional fluid capacity for extra cooling when towing. I would recommend them to prolong and protect these expensive components. It's an easy mod to do if you can turn a wrench.l
All the issues have been identified and have all but been eliminated by the most recent flashes by Chrysler. You'd be getting into a beautiful truck that many people, the dealerships, and Chrysler have worked hard on to solve the issues that these tightened emissions systems have caused.
If you get the 6.7 UNPLUG THE EGR. That is the concensus among the experts. Read all about it first.
You'll be happy whatever direction you go, just don't take the opinions of people who gave up without searching for the answers, bought the truck to drive for the wrong reasons, and the EPA mandated emissions learning process falsely sway you to not strongly consider the 6.7 beast. I love mine. You are doing the right thing by researching and asking for feedback. Just keep in mind many naysayers don't own one, or haven't taken the appropriate steps (get the most recent flash update, you should ask for this before you leave the lot and you'll probably not need to do it again cause of all the previous research completed) to deal with the root cause of the early emission issues that have troubled all of the vehicles that have had to adapt to the EPA mandates.
06-28-2009, 06:20 AM
#21
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I think you have a hard decision to make. I bought an 08 2500 and have only had one check engine light with my stock setup. I had the dealer read the code and since I was leaving town towing 15k they said I'd be fine cause it just needed to get hot enough to clean out the emissions (problem solved). Now the recent flash has made a lot of progress to fine-tune the truck to be trouble free. I wasn't towing in a long time and this was when the fine-tuning wasn't dialed in- these 6.7 are made to be used like a truck, not driven around the city. You should be fine because of how much towing you plan to do.
I have the 3.73 gears and tow 15k often without issue. I did however add a
Mag Hytec diff cover (soon a Mag hytec trans pan) that adds additional fluid capacity for extra cooling when towing. I would recommend them to prolong and protect these expensive components. It's an easy mod to do if you can turn a wrench.l
All the issues have been identified and have all but been eliminated by the most recent flashes by Chrysler. You'd be getting into a beautiful truck that many people, the dealerships, and Chrysler have worked hard on to solve the issues that these tightened emissions systems have caused.
If you get the 6.7 UNPLUG THE EGR. That is the concensus among the experts. Read all about it first.
You'll be happy whatever direction you go, just don't take the opinions of people who gave up without searching for the answers, bought the truck to drive for the wrong reasons, and the EPA mandated emissions learning process falsely sway you to not strongly consider the 6.7 beast. I love mine. You are doing the right thing by researching and asking for feedback. Just keep in mind many naysayers don't own one, or haven't taken the appropriate steps (get the most recent flash update, you should ask for this before you leave the lot and you'll probably not need to do it again cause of all the previous research completed) to deal with the root cause of the early emission issues that have troubled all of the vehicles that have had to adapt to the EPA mandates.
I have the 3.73 gears and tow 15k often without issue. I did however add a
Mag Hytec diff cover (soon a Mag hytec trans pan) that adds additional fluid capacity for extra cooling when towing. I would recommend them to prolong and protect these expensive components. It's an easy mod to do if you can turn a wrench.l
All the issues have been identified and have all but been eliminated by the most recent flashes by Chrysler. You'd be getting into a beautiful truck that many people, the dealerships, and Chrysler have worked hard on to solve the issues that these tightened emissions systems have caused.
If you get the 6.7 UNPLUG THE EGR. That is the concensus among the experts. Read all about it first.
You'll be happy whatever direction you go, just don't take the opinions of people who gave up without searching for the answers, bought the truck to drive for the wrong reasons, and the EPA mandated emissions learning process falsely sway you to not strongly consider the 6.7 beast. I love mine. You are doing the right thing by researching and asking for feedback. Just keep in mind many naysayers don't own one, or haven't taken the appropriate steps (get the most recent flash update, you should ask for this before you leave the lot and you'll probably not need to do it again cause of all the previous research completed) to deal with the root cause of the early emission issues that have troubled all of the vehicles that have had to adapt to the EPA mandates.
ABonnett, the above response is a great writing. I will pick up my new '09 tomorrow, Monday, 6/29/09. What are flashes? Is it the same as Service Bulletins. Will the dealer know what "Flash" means? Thank you for writing the above.
06-28-2009, 06:33 AM
#22
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2009 D1 DH 6.7L AUTO 50S 2500 -- 72350435AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L MAN 50S 2500 -- 72350430AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L AUTO 50S 3500 -- 72351435AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L MAN 50S 3500 -- 72351430AJ
06-28-2009, 07:03 AM
#23
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These are the current "flashes" (i.e. part numbers) for the 2009 pickups. Insist that your salesman send the truck over to the service department prior to taking delivery to have them verify the ECM programing.
2009 D1 DH 6.7L AUTO 50S 2500 -- 72350435AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L MAN 50S 2500 -- 72350430AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L AUTO 50S 3500 -- 72351435AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L MAN 50S 3500 -- 72351430AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L AUTO 50S 2500 -- 72350435AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L MAN 50S 2500 -- 72350430AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L AUTO 50S 3500 -- 72351435AJ
2009 D1 DH 6.7L MAN 50S 3500 -- 72351430AJ
Jim
06-28-2009, 11:04 AM
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Thanks and welcome. A 'flash' is similar to the most updated software for say your computer, iPod, etc. It's the fine-tuning that the engineers who write the code have done to fix any bugs and improve operation of the computer. Does that cover it.
Request that they put a sticker that documents the flash update on the radiator top so that it will be there for future reference. This will help you down the road when time passes and you may not recall which flash you have and there is a post about what a new flash does. Wait to read here and other forums before you have a new flash installed. The dealer will not update your truck on a verbal request to update (so it's unlike a microsoft/apple computer software update where it's at your disposal). What I mean is, if the new flash is for better shifting or to solve say a surging issue (actual updates they have come up with for earlier models) you have to say it shifts hard or the engine is surging. That's how it's done cause of the red-tape, for lack of a better term and for the sake of being brief.
Also look at another great forum: cumminsforum.org It compliments this forum nicely- just more opinions and answers at your disposal.
Some things I recommend immediately:
- read about the EGR unplugging process. It take 5 min, can increase MPG by 2-3. Most importantly it drastically reduces the emissions from being sent back into your engine. This is better for your engine short term and long term. There are many shortened threads covering the basics and include data, pics, and technical information to assist you in your decision. I have had mine unplugged for over 20,000 miles. You will have to live with a cell; check engine light on if you don't get a tuner. You can plug it back in if you need to go to the dealer and five key cycles ( turning the key over for 10 seconds, then to off and repeat four more times- clears a soft code you will get). That way the dealer won't know unless they dig through pages of code to find it, in which case you can play dumb.
- look into a tuner. Even if you don't want more power you will have gauges for many parameters- trans temp (auto), regen on, accurate coolant temp, boost, etc. That way you can monitor your truck and not be driving blind. You can buy used tuners cause when new ones come out, people sell there old ones cheap to try the new ones. The Edge J/A, for instance can get you additional MPG, allow you to read and clear codes (code descriptions can be found in these forums) and change power settings on the fly. It can be removed in one hour in the event you go to the dealer so you don't invalidate your warranty.
- look into deletes DPF, EGR and EGR cooler. This is the stuff that had been causing all the problems with the trucks. It's all emissions related and removing it adds MPG and more power, allowing the truck to breathe and ensures longevity that is unknown due to what the long term effect of reinjecting the exhuast back into the engine may do long term.
Hope that helps jump start your learning curve with the 6.7!
Enjoy
06-28-2009, 11:24 AM
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Thanks and welcome. A 'flash' is similar to the most updated software for say your computer, iPod, etc. It's the fine-tuning that the engineers who write the code have done to fix any bugs and improve operation of the computer. Does that cover it.
Request that they put a sticker that documents the flash update on the radiator top so that it will be there for future reference. This will help you down the road when time passes and you may not recall which flash you have and there is a post about what a new flash does. Wait to read here and other forums before you have a new flash installed. The dealer will not update your truck on a verbal request to update (so it's unlike a microsoft/apple computer software update where it's at your disposal). What I mean is, if the new flash is for better shifting or to solve say a surging issue (actual updates they have come up with for earlier models) you have to say it shifts hard or the engine is surging. That's how it's done cause of the red-tape, for lack of a better term and for the sake of being brief.
Also look at another great forum: cumminsforum.org It compliments this forum nicely- just more opinions and answers at your disposal.
Some things I recommend immediately:
- read about the EGR unplugging process. It take 5 min, can increase MPG by 2-3. Most importantly it drastically reduces the emissions from being sent back into your engine. This is better for your engine short term and long term. There are many shortened threads covering the basics and include data, pics, and technical information to assist you in your decision. I have had mine unplugged for over 20,000 miles. You will have to live with a cell; check engine light on if you don't get a tuner. You can plug it back in if you need to go to the dealer and five key cycles ( turning the key over for 10 seconds, then to off and repeat four more times- clears a soft code you will get). That way the dealer won't know unless they dig through pages of code to find it, in which case you can play dumb.
- look into a tuner. Even if you don't want more power you will have gauges for many parameters- trans temp (auto), regen on, accurate coolant temp, boost, etc. That way you can monitor your truck and not be driving blind. You can buy used tuners cause when new ones come out, people sell there old ones cheap to try the new ones. The Edge J/A, for instance can get you additional MPG, allow you to read and clear codes (code descriptions can be found in these forums) and change power settings on the fly. It can be removed in one hour in the event you go to the dealer so you don't invalidate your warranty.
- look into deletes DPF, EGR and EGR cooler. This is the stuff that had been causing all the problems with the trucks. It's all emissions related and removing it adds MPG and more power, allowing the truck to breathe and ensures longevity that is unknown due to what the long term effect of reinjecting the exhuast back into the engine may do long term.
Hope that helps jump start your learning curve with the 6.7!
Enjoy
Request that they put a sticker that documents the flash update on the radiator top so that it will be there for future reference. This will help you down the road when time passes and you may not recall which flash you have and there is a post about what a new flash does. Wait to read here and other forums before you have a new flash installed. The dealer will not update your truck on a verbal request to update (so it's unlike a microsoft/apple computer software update where it's at your disposal). What I mean is, if the new flash is for better shifting or to solve say a surging issue (actual updates they have come up with for earlier models) you have to say it shifts hard or the engine is surging. That's how it's done cause of the red-tape, for lack of a better term and for the sake of being brief.
Also look at another great forum: cumminsforum.org It compliments this forum nicely- just more opinions and answers at your disposal.
Some things I recommend immediately:
- read about the EGR unplugging process. It take 5 min, can increase MPG by 2-3. Most importantly it drastically reduces the emissions from being sent back into your engine. This is better for your engine short term and long term. There are many shortened threads covering the basics and include data, pics, and technical information to assist you in your decision. I have had mine unplugged for over 20,000 miles. You will have to live with a cell; check engine light on if you don't get a tuner. You can plug it back in if you need to go to the dealer and five key cycles ( turning the key over for 10 seconds, then to off and repeat four more times- clears a soft code you will get). That way the dealer won't know unless they dig through pages of code to find it, in which case you can play dumb.
- look into a tuner. Even if you don't want more power you will have gauges for many parameters- trans temp (auto), regen on, accurate coolant temp, boost, etc. That way you can monitor your truck and not be driving blind. You can buy used tuners cause when new ones come out, people sell there old ones cheap to try the new ones. The Edge J/A, for instance can get you additional MPG, allow you to read and clear codes (code descriptions can be found in these forums) and change power settings on the fly. It can be removed in one hour in the event you go to the dealer so you don't invalidate your warranty.
- look into deletes DPF, EGR and EGR cooler. This is the stuff that had been causing all the problems with the trucks. It's all emissions related and removing it adds MPG and more power, allowing the truck to breathe and ensures longevity that is unknown due to what the long term effect of reinjecting the exhuast back into the engine may do long term.
Hope that helps jump start your learning curve with the 6.7!
Enjoy
Thanks for the additional information, it will be very helpful. I will get a tuner. I am a retired pilot and aircraft mechanic so I believe in instrumentation and doing things right. You have been very kind to answer my novice questions on this new venture. I sort of hate to see my '03 go but we have to move ahead and not go backwards. Before I bought the '03 I had a 1991 and the differences in the technology were tremendous. I am tired of shifting gears with my '03 4.10 rear end and looking forward to the new, improved automatic.
Jim
06-28-2009, 12:48 PM
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No problem. The 6.7 is my first diesel and I learned everything I know by reading these forums and from other people answering my questions. You will love the auto. It has the paddle shifter, as you probably know, so you can control it with ease!
06-29-2009, 08:22 PM
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Picked up my '09 Laramie 3500 DRW from the dealer today and traded my '03. I asked the salesman and service manager about problems they have had with the 6.7L engine. Both said there were a lot of problems when the engine first came out but Dodge has completely solved the problems and they have not had an check engine light in over a year. They sell alot of diesel Dodges.
The '09 is a huge improvement over the '03 I had for 6 years. I went from stick shift to auto and will never go back. Excellent acceleration from 0-60 and beyond. I cruised for 150 miles on the interstate at 70-75 MPH, got 16 MPG. Got up to 90 MPH once briefly to pass a jerk who would not let me in. I bought the extended warranty, 6 years, 75,000 miles bumper to bumper. Covers the engine and 4X4.
It was emotional parting with the '03 but after driving this magnificent '09 I am glad I made the trade.
Jim
The '09 is a huge improvement over the '03 I had for 6 years. I went from stick shift to auto and will never go back. Excellent acceleration from 0-60 and beyond. I cruised for 150 miles on the interstate at 70-75 MPH, got 16 MPG. Got up to 90 MPH once briefly to pass a jerk who would not let me in. I bought the extended warranty, 6 years, 75,000 miles bumper to bumper. Covers the engine and 4X4.
It was emotional parting with the '03 but after driving this magnificent '09 I am glad I made the trade.
Jim
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