There is a federal law that requires all emissions equipment to have the same warranty as the engine.
heres a quote from the code

The warranty period shall not be less than the basic
mechanical warranty of the particular engine as provided to the
purchaser. Thus, the warranty shall be longer than that published for
the engine family in cases where a manufacturer provides to the
customer a longer basic mechanical warranty for a particular engine.
Extended warranties on select parts do not extend the emissions
warranty requirements for the entire engine but only for those parts
http://www.epa.gov/EPA-AIR/1997/Octo...21/a274940.htm

 

Good trade, Don't look back

 

I care about a .2 mile per gallon difference, let alone a whole two miles per gallon. At 4.50+ here in Indy, sheesh!

 

7500 miles and only 1 blown speaker!! Heck my 97 went through 2 radios and oh lets see....CAUGHT ON FIRE!!!! in 6000 miles, but I still have her w/ 131000 on the clock.

 

Good for you. My world don't revolve around 2 mpg lol. Its just a tax write off for me. I don't have time to hand calculate or even pay attention to the overhead.All that worrying is no good 4 u.

 

Don't be a jerk about it. I own a business and it's a tax write off for me as well. But I still try to maximize my vehicle's efficiency.

 

My 01' Durango work truck with the auto does the same thing. It's got 190,000 miles on it and very little service. LOL.... Maybe ONE......original tranny with plenty of beating...

 

Idle time isn't the killer with DPF equiped trucks. It does increase the # of times it will regen, but what causes the most problems and most fuel used is when the truck is shutdown before it completes the regen process. The process can't be interupted or it will start over the next time the truck is run and if it doesn't complete then it carries over again. Hence the coment from the dealership about owning a diesel truck. What would be nice is if you know the engine is in regen and it would continue until done and then shutdown.

 

Not true. The process can be interrupted and if the regen has completed more than a certain amount of the total regen it will not go back into regen until one of the "triggers" hit again.

I do agree that if you have updated your calibration, you should not have a problem with idling as long as you eventually drive long enough to complete a regen, but with all the hassle and waste of it, I still would recommend the least amount of idle time as possible. I also agree it would be nice to have a message letting you know you were in a regen so you could finish it if it was convenient.

 

To keep it simple and provide accurate info for the most efficient way to regen your 6.9, it is best to complete the process and not interupt it. The regen process needs to go thru about 3/4 - 2/3 of the process depending on the age/condition of the DPF before it will not restart after interuption. This means getting the temp @ the converter back up to 600 F before it will restart regen.
Some important facts..... The regen process requires about 4 gallons of fuel to complete.
How do you not have to regen and not burn 4 gallons of fuel and get the best fuel economy possible? Keep your exhaust temp @ the converter min. 600 F and you will virtually never have to regen.
That means idling, city driving, and similar activities will cause the most regens.
These are the facts!

 

Would this be what you are talking about?

 

the problem is for those who dont even get on a highway for a week at a time, or when they do get on the highway its in stop and go traffic. If you are able to burn a tank of fuel or more while never seeing over 45 mph because you use the truck to go to the office, you will have to at one point and get on the open road for about 30 mins to clean it out. The overhead will pop up telling you that its 70, 80 or 90% full. i have had a DPF delete for 22,000 miles, its been great

 

Yea I was. I was also trying to be funny but I am a lousy comedian.

 

Just giving you a hard time

 

That explains why he licks himself...