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2011 1st Oil Change

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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 05:47 AM
  #1  
New2Diesel's Avatar
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"Gomer Pyle"
 
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From: NC
2011 1st Oil Change

I conducted my 1st oil change today on the 2011 CTD. It was not too bad and the filter was pretty easy to get off. I used a 93mm oil filter removal socket that I purchased from a local auto parts store.

1st thing I did was remove the oil dip stick and the oil fill cap at the top of the motor. Cleaned them off and sat them to the side. Then I put my drain pan beneath the oil drain plug and slowly removed it with a 3/8 drive wrench. Once I broke it loose it was easy to slowly spin out by hand. I tried to leave it in a little to let the oil just trickle out and it was very timely therefore I decided to just pull the drain plug. BEWARE: This truck spit oil out so fast that the hole in my drain pan was almost not large enough. I got lucky though and it drained with no problem. I let it drain until it was just barely dripping and put the drain plug back in, wiping everything off once complete.

I then took the 93mm oil filter removal socket and got the filter loose using a 3/8 drive wrench and a 12" extension. Once the filter was loose I wrapped it in a 1-gallon Zip Lock plastic baggy. Then I screwed it off by hand making sure the top of the bag was always above the top of the filter. Once the filter was off, keeping as verticle as possible, I just slipped in out from underneath the truck. I then cleaned the entire fitting that the oil filter came off of, filled the new filter 3/4 full with the new oil, and lubed the gasket on the new (MOPAR) OEM filter. I then proceeded to fill, using a funnel with 3-Gallons (12qt) of new oil. OIL USED: Mobil Delvac 1300 Super Motor Oil 15W-40 For Diesels

In the future I will be purchasing an oil drain plug from Geno's with a valve and hose in order to decrease the amount of oil spilled on the ground. As a side note, all this was done from beneath the vehicle and with hood open.

Any one have any other ideas on how to make this easier? Also, which oil drain pug should I buy to make things easier?
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 08:39 AM
  #2  
surfram's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Delaware
Originally Posted by New2Diesel
I conducted my 1st oil change today on the 2011 CTD. It was not too bad and the filter was pretty easy to get off. I used a 93mm oil filter removal socket that I purchased from a local auto parts store.

1st thing I did was remove the oil dip stick and the oil fill cap at the top of the motor. Cleaned them off and sat them to the side. Then I put my drain pan beneath the oil drain plug and slowly removed it with a 3/8 drive wrench. Once I broke it loose it was easy to slowly spin out by hand. I tried to leave it in a little to let the oil just trickle out and it was very timely therefore I decided to just pull the drain plug. BEWARE: This truck spit oil out so fast that the hole in my drain pan was almost not large enough. I got lucky though and it drained with no problem. I let it drain until it was just barely dripping and put the drain plug back in, wiping everything off once complete.

I then took the 93mm oil filter removal socket and got the filter loose using a 3/8 drive wrench and a 12" extension. Once the filter was loose I wrapped it in a 1-gallon Zip Lock plastic baggy. Then I screwed it off by hand making sure the top of the bag was always above the top of the filter. Once the filter was off, keeping as verticle as possible, I just slipped in out from underneath the truck. I then cleaned the entire fitting that the oil filter came off of, filled the new filter 3/4 full with the new oil, and lubed the gasket on the new (MOPAR) OEM filter. I then proceeded to fill, using a funnel with 3-Gallons (12qt) of new oil. OIL USED: Mobil Delvac 1300 Super Motor Oil 15W-40 For Diesels

In the future I will be purchasing an oil drain plug from Geno's with a valve and hose in order to decrease the amount of oil spilled on the ground. As a side note, all this was done from beneath the vehicle and with hood open.

Any one have any other ideas on how to make this easier? Also, which oil drain pug should I buy to make things easier?
One of the open yellow 15 quart drain pans from walmart or a bucket works much better than the drain pan with the small opening in the middle. Other than that, I have always changed my oil the same way. I do use a torque wrench set to 37 ft/lbs to re-install the oil drain plug.
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Old Jan 3, 2011 | 08:28 PM
  #3  
gsbrockman's Avatar
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From: Sand Gap, KY.
Originally Posted by New2Diesel
Any one have any other ideas on how to make this easier?
Did you remember to reset the "oil change required" light?????

Everything you did seems great..........
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 08:32 AM
  #4  
Jim W's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Oswego Il
Originally Posted by New2Diesel
Any one have any other ideas on how to make this easier? Also, which oil drain pug should I buy to make things easier?
I purchased the "Finger Touch Engine Oil Drain Valve" from Geno's Garage, part number FTP-F104N-A. This has the nipple on it if you want to attach a hose to it. I have found that the hose is not required. Just open valve and let it drain in to a oil changing pan.
Jim
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 11:03 AM
  #5  
cincydiesel's Avatar
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
 
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
I use a 5 gallon bucket w/ lid for the oil. Makes it easier to transfer to the oil recycling place. Everything else it the same.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #6  
1-2-3's Avatar
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From: Carlos, Texas
I just drink the oil as it comes out.
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #7  
cincydiesel's Avatar
Muted one day, Banned the next....... Ah the life of a DTR 1%'er
 
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From: Ohio: Home of the disappointing sports teams
Originally Posted by 1-2-3
I just drink the oil as it comes out.
Well that finally explains allot
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