My truck was running at the light and the idle began to get real rough and threw a P0206 code. Red lightening bolt came on as well as the check engine light. The truck runs ok now but ran rough after clearing the code. How can i troubleshoot this?

 

test both batteries. i have seen many times a low or dead battery set a throttle valve light.

on research for this code, this is what I come up with

Case Number K53504300
Vehicle Issue Intermittent MIL, fault code P020x is stored (P0201, P0202, P0203, P0204, P0205, P0206).;The concern is intermittent. The injector solenoid(s) have no continuity to ground and less than 1 Ohm across the posts.
System or Component DTC / Error Message;Injectors;Yes - Intermittent
Recommendation Replace the valve cover gasket (which is also the injector wiring harness).


AND

Theory of Operation
The Engine Control Module (ECM) has a common internal driver circuit to all three Fuel Injectors on each bank. If any injector circuit on a given bank has a failure, a DTC will be set for all three Fuel Injectors on that bank. Fuel Injectors 1-3 are grouped together on bank 1. Fuel Injectors 4-6 are grouped together on bank 2. If any of the Fuel Injectors or Fuel Injector circuits is shorted to power or ground, the ECM will shut down all three Fuel Injectors on that bank to protect itself from damage. This will cause all three Fuel Injector DTCs for that bank to be set simultaneously. The MIL lamp will light immediately after the diagnostic runs and fails. During this time the customer may experience lack of power, an engine surge or stumble. The MIL lamp will turn off once the diagnostic runs and passes in 4 consecutive drive cycles.

When Monitored:
While the engine is running.

Set Condition:
When the Fuel Injector current falls below a calibrated threshold.


Possible Causes
HIGH SIDE DRIVER CIRCUIT OPEN
INJECTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN
HIGH SIDE DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
INJECTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
HIGH SIDE DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
INJECTOR CONTROL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
DRIVER CIRCUITS SHORTED TOGETHER
FUEL INJECTOR
ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM)

 

is it ok to drive the truck in the mean time?

the truck is not idling rough anymore

 

sure. I would keep an eye on oil level just in case it decides to rise on ya. it may have been just an electrical glitch. i would also test batteries just in case. have seen dead batteries cause all sorts of problems and lead techs onto a wild goose chase when in reality it was a dead battery not supplying enough voltage to the ECM. a computer that does not see enough voltage starts shutting down systems to conserve voltage so you can get home. all sorts of malfunction lights will come on the dash because of the ECM shutting non essential systems down and even systems that will not keep a vehicle from running. kinda like going into limp mode.

 

so i took the valve cover off and measured the resistance across each injector......0.4 ohms on every one of them.

I also checked the battery and the wires going to the injectors. All seems ok.

A few months back i lost about 4mpg for no reason other then maybe its 105+ every day.

I also disconnected the batterys and will leave it like that until i put the truck back together. I did notice that one of my battery terminals was loose on the positive side.(of course i tightened it up)

A month ago I tapped into the tach wire coming from the pcm (i disconnected this for now even though i dont think it has anything to do with this situation.

 

Ok I tightened everything up and went for a ride and after about 20 miles the red lighting bolt came on, check engine light and the chime. This time it happened under acceleration...and the truck began to shake for a few seconds.

After checking the codes it is still the same P0206 and no other codes.

 

did you test each battery while it was unhooked and put a load on the battery? a bad battery can still show 12v but under load they will circle the drain pretty fast. i would imagine that the battery that had the lose terminal might be the culprit and be low on charge. if the batteries test good, put a trickle charger on them overnight to bring that battery back up to working order.

put it on high idle with a/c and lights on and put a meter on each battery to see the charging voltage also.

 

I will replace both red top batteries this morning since they are under warranty

 

I replaced both batteries this morning with brand new ones.

Each batteries charges at 14.1 at idle with the a/c and the lights on. I took it around the block and its operating like normal but it usually wont act up until it gets hot. Ill wait until the trip tomorrow morning to actually test it out.

 

any updates brother? everything ok?

 

Ive driven it to work two days now 20mi each way and not a hickup.
I think you were right, the problem was electrical.

This is what ive done
1. Cleaned cold air intake air filter (mileage is back)
2. Replaced both batteries
3. Loaded Level 1 smart tune with timing and torque set on 1.
4. I ordered an 5500 ambulance alternator 220 amp that I will be picking up and installing today.
5. Im also going to do 'the big 3' update later on this week.

Thanks for all the help! I really appreciate it.

Has anyone done group 31 batteries on a 6.7L? Will they fit?

 

right on. group 31 will fit but TIGHT and some battery tray massaging may be needed.

 

so ive been noticing that my EGTs are around 600-630 now (they use to be around 500-550) I have the probe down low in the down pipe is why my temps are reading low. Im also getting 4+ mpg after cleaning the air filter and all the other stuff I did.

Should I be concerned with this increase?

 

what setting on smarty you on? still on sw1?

 

Smart Jr is is on setting 2 now...setting 1 gave about the same egts