CoastalDav

I have heard, but not used, a kit that uses PH paper to determine if you need to change anti freeze due to excessive acidity in the fluid. They are expensive
so, someone the services auto's must have one in your area. This is one of the two I found on line.

http://www.acustrip.com/index.html

Dave

offroadcpa

Sorry to bounce this thread up again, but Nick Beek or anybody, Can I replace the little short piece of hose behind the turbo without a fluid change? Will the coolant pour out if I try to replace this when the coolant is full?

I have been leaking from there periodically since July this year. It trickles down and catches the oils on the motor and trany and is starting to leave stains.

bcfitzsimons

Send some coolant to Blackstone labs for analysis if you want to be scientific about it. I can't remember what the name is, but there's a chemical property of coolant that prevents bubbling/cavitation where the coolant mix contacts the cylinder wall. Over time, as the coolant degrades (and this isn't due to corrosion), small bubbles will form at the cylinder wall/liquid interface, which then causes cavitation of the cylinder wall as steam forms in the bubble and then the bubble pops. Over time, this causes stress fractures in the cylinder wall, leading to coolant leaking through the metal. Seriously-no joke. Color and corrosion have nothing to do with this property of coolant either.

All I know is that a couple of mechanic buddies of mine insist that you change out coolant every 60K-70K miles to be safe.=-even the "good to 100K miles" stuff that comes from the factory. I did mine at 63K. It's cheap insurance. It's like changing out your brake fluid-you never think it needs done, until you do it the first time-and when you see what comes out of your calipers, and then when you feel the difference after you do it, you'll never leave it in for more than 50K miles again

Grit Dog

I usually replace at 3-4yrs old. I'd think it's more a function of how long the coolant has been in use, not how many laps it's done through the cooling system....but anyway.
A question, on distilled water. I understand it has less/no minerals compared to tap water (seems pretty important in a battery), but has anyone had a failure from excessive minerals in the coolant? I've run alot of engines up into the 200kmi range and not really had cooling system problems (unless distilled water will keep a water pump from failing aroung 100k mi).

When I flush a cooling system, I drain all I can (radiator and block if possible), fill and flush a couple times with water. Drain out all I can again, assuming any left is straight water. Add as much coolant as I need to get the req'd 50/50 or 70/30 mix (full strength coolant, not the pre mixed 50/50 crap that they only charge $1 less for!), then top off with water until full. If it's below freezing, make sure to drive it some right away to get everything mixed up.

billie

[QUOTE=Grit Dog;2631844]I usually replace at 3-4yrs old. I'd think it's more a function of how long the coolant has been in use, not how many laps it's done through the cooling system....but anyway.
A question, on distilled water. I understand it has less/no minerals compared to tap water (seems pretty important in a battery), but has anyone had a failure from excessive minerals in the coolant? I've run alot of engines up into the 200kmi range and not really had cooling system problems (unless distilled water will keep a water pump from failing aroung 100k mi).

QUOTE]

I would say depends on the water (you don't want to use my well water!! TDS above 3000).

DW (or RO) is still best without a doubt. Cleaner (purer) is always better.

Cya

nelrod

I plan to do my 87 Ford in 2010, maybe. That will be 30 yr mark. My Cummins is nowhere near as reliable, even when stock, so I guess I will change it at 5 yr mark. No insults intended, I love my Cummins. It is just not as reliable as my 87 Ford that's all. Ford has never left me on side of road with rollback required, Cummins has. I realize it is all in HPCR and the electronics. I wish I could have bought my 06 with a 12 Valve P-pump.

Dr.Dizzle

[QUOTE=Grit Dog;2631844]I usually replace at 3-4yrs old. I'd think it's more a function of how long the coolant has been in use, not how many laps it's done through the cooling system....but anyway.
A question, on distilled water. I understand it has less/no minerals compared to tap water (seems pretty important in a battery), but has anyone had a failure from excessive minerals in the coolant? I've run alot of engines up into the 200kmi range and not really had cooling system problems (unless distilled water will keep a water pump from failing aroung 100k mi).

Hi Grit Dog!

Distilled water is preferred over municipal tap water in cooling systems because it is virtually free of the unwanted chemicals and minerals therefore, resulting in optimal coolant life and system performance. Municipal tap water in many parts of the country is processed and contains items such as minerals, chlorides, dissolved oxygen, flouride and chlorine. The addition of tap water to concentrated coolant causes the corrosion inhibitor additives to quicly fend off or neutralize those chemicals and minerals introduced into the system. That being said,the coolants' corrosion inhibitors have prematurely weakened and the coolants' lifespan reduced. Chlorides,which are especially aggressive toward aluminum can attack copper as well. They are contaminants associated with causing the corrosion of cooling systems and can quickly deplete a coolants' corrosion inhibitor additives.

Some coolants are sensitive to hard water, which can cause some corrosion inhibitors to form insoluble salts in the water. The end result is premature coolant failure. Hard water salts will create deposits on hot areas within the cooling system creating insulating films, which contribute to overheating problems and component failure within the cooling system.

Sevir

another reason to use distilled water is due to electrolysis. The continuity between dissimilar metals. I have an anode in my coolant system to help keep this from happening. this was a huge problem in Chevy truck back in the day. all the aluminum pieces were deteriorating. Tap water has minerals in it that make the water conductive. Pure water (distilled or di-ionized water) is used as a dielectric (non-conductive isolator) in alot of electrical systems. (Like old wet-cell batteries.)

soulezoo

My tap water has about 1/3 less conductivity straight from the tap than it does run through a PUR filter! (our water is very soft)

j-fox

Here is a proven method to determine if the anti-freeze is going bad.

Using a digital volt meter, place the red/+ lead in the coolant, and black/- to the radiator. Have the scale set to 1 volt or a little higher.
If you get a reading above .7 volts, change it SOON. Any reading below .5 is ok. Lower is better.

DC, BTW.

bkrukow

I just picked up that little hose tonight. Its been leaking all winter and Ime sick of adding coolant all the time. I tightend the clamps but that just slowed it down. Plan to put it on when I do my tnak heater and change the coolant then as well. Hopefully this weekend but who knows with my ambition.