Hey looking at replacing front upper and lower ball joints and front wheel u joints. Also should I do the hub bearings right away? Any tips or tricks. Also any websites for a complete walk through. Never done it before. I'm mechanically inclined and not afraid to try something new. Need help. Do I need an alignment after. Thank you.

 

I thought there used to be a sticky in 3rd gen non-drivetrain. Can't find it, but this was a good one: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t217250.html (not sure where the picts went)

1. If your hub bearings have more than 150k, and/or have side to side play, or don't spin freely when you take them off then yes, wouldn't hurt to replace them. If not then just get a rubber grease fitting and re-grease them through the ABS sensor hole.

2. If you have the time (about a full day) and can buy or rent the ball joint press tools & 1 11/6 socket then by all means give it a try. It's a PITB getting off the brake disc. Wheel bearings can be pressed out using the power steering and sacrificial socket method. Pressing in the new ball joints can be "fun". Leave them in the freezer overnight before you plan on installing them.

3. Yes, most folks head straight for the alignment shop.

 

Last time I did a front end replacement, I just counted the revolutions and marked the tie rod ends as the last thread came off. I put it back the same way and didnt even need an alignment.

 

There's a ball joint kit OTC-8031. You can purchase it for about $375, or might be able to rent it as well. It makes the ball joint removal and installation easy.

No need to do wheel bearings unless you can feel problems. For a solid axle 4wd I'd look at doing the u-joints though.

 

Also, when you put the wheel hub back into the steering knuckle coat the parts with Kopr-Kote or some other anti-seize products. Also when you re-sandwich the rotor between the hub and the hub extension (if a dually 3500) use an anti-seize as well.

 

Take a flapper wheel on a die grinder and remove all traces of rust from any mating surfaces, then coat them with antiseize before reassembly.

 

Yeah do what AAM should have done during assembly along with a decent paintjob on the axle.

 

Living in the salt belt and had the front axle leak @ the tube end. So the axle has to be taken apart to replace the seals... Shop had to heat and beat the bearing out. Without a lift and a big torch you may get stuck with an unfinished job and need to get a tow. For me it was worth it to pay a pro.