I believe its the rear one,headed to the dealer monday.Does anyone have the part numbers for the spicer or napa brand greaseable ones?Thanks for any info. coobie

 

yours lasted a bit over 5000 miles longer than mine, both went under 30,000.... had mine done same time as my #1 injector. someone tried to link me a listing for u joints, man the list was long and confusing..........

 

Is it an auto or manual or should I guess?

 

Auto tranny.3.73 gears/Had it posted in my truck signature.coobie

 

I have fought with 2 diff dealers about these junk u - joints since 3000 miles !!! Slinging grease all over under truck from a sealed joint is not cool in my book for longevity . Mine is going in Tues for joint diag AGAIN but it seems like DC doesn't believe in preventative maint they just wait for it to go bad and leave you high and dry !! Dealers must love me cuz I have slammed the clowns every time on the survey laziness seems to be the problem . My gassers have both seen 300,000 miles because I DID MY OWN MAINT but I think a new car warranty excuses me from having to work on my truck at least for a bit .

 

Autos are typically Precision 295 for the rears. Napa carries them.

 

Not all that unusual for them to go. Same old DC crap parts. Mine went at about 38K.
Got a nice greasable one from Scott at Massdiesel. No more worries....

Steve

 

Had one go on my truck on the front of the rear section of the driveline. Took it in in December 05 complaining and got the spiel "that is normal, bring it back if it gets worse". Had about 23,000 miles on it. Towed 10,000 lbs about 7,000 miles and it was bad. Took it back in and they replaced the entire rear section of driveline. Service writer said that they had gotten a bad batch rear drivelines. I know they did replace the section as the new one didn't have any rust on it.

 

What kind of noises were you hearing when the u-joints started to fail?

 

started as a bit of a squeak, grew quickly to an all out cliking sound, worse under harder acceleration, hand inspection did not show any slop in the driveshaft.

 

just got mine done at 21600, no problems, bout 10 days ago had a slight ticking when stopping, then a good squeek in reverse, next couple days the whole truck shook all to heck, drive shaft had no slop but you could see were the joint rubber seals had gotten picnhed and ripped, I took it to the dealer and told them exactly what was wrong, 2 hrs later, 60 miles on the truck, they came and told me that the rear u joint was out and they were GOING to replace it
im like jeppers, if i wasnt afraid of losing the warrenty id be getting my own, its not all gone, the vibrations, i think it really started to wear out the front one, next week ill be back

 

I was gonna replace mine today(no slop in shaft,but got some shudder at low speed,I think one might be seized).Napa,O'Reilly's,and Auto Zone all said they were listing 2 different sizes for the truck.MY truck is an 03.5 ctd H.O.,2500,4x4,long bed.Anybody know the right size???????

 

Im having mine done as I speak, Mostly you wont feel any slop in the drive line. It feels like your driving on rumble strips when slowing down and between about 15-20 mph when excelerating. I believe the U-joints used are a 1450 series, thats not a part number for the joint, but should get ya headed in the right direction for a cross refrence.
Long boxes have a tendieny to have the carrier bearing out of wak, wich will cause drive train vibes as well.
Might want to try contacting these folks http://www.ctmracing.com/category.aspx?categoryID=73
They make rebuildable U-Joints, just not sure if they make them for our needs.

 

I talked to the dealer this morning they are replacing them with the percision 295 u-joints(greasable) on tuesday.Thanks for all the information and part numbers,you folks are great.I will let you know the out come.coobie

 

I had the rear u-joints replaced this morning with the precision 295(greaseable) from the dealer under warrenty.I have a great dealer who looks out after his customers.I am going to get the front u-joints replaced also.Does anyone have the part numbers for those also,thanks again.coobie