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Truck Shaking Question

Old May 18, 2006 | 08:21 PM
  #1  
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Truck Shaking Question

I've had a problem with my truck shaking over the last several months. I've had two different sets of tires put on and had them balanced several different ways to include the Centrimatics wheel balancing system, and the always expensive roadforce balancing system. 4 wheel alignment was done today.

Today, after climbing under and looking at everything I've found that the front drive shaft as it connects to the transfer case is about 1/8" loose with a metalic "clank" every time I push on it. Common sense tells me this isn't normal. Would it be causing the whole truck to shake, common sense tells me yes.

Is it hard to remove the front shaft? Is this something that I can maybe tighten up some for the fix?

What do you guys think? I really need help here.

Jamie
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Old May 22, 2006 | 07:33 PM
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Today, after climbing under and looking at everything I've found that the front drive shaft as it connects to the transfer case is about 1/8" loose with a metalic "clank" every time I push on it. Common sense tells me this isn't normal. Would it be causing the whole truck to shake, common sense tells me yes.



any help on this issue?

thanks Jamie
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Old May 22, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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I don't believe the front shaft spins until you engage 4WD, so that shouldn't be the problem. Assuming a bent wheel or bad tire would show up on balancing, I'd have the rear driveshaft checked for balance, and rear u-joints checked.
How and when do you feel the shake? Acceleration, deceleration, cruising, braking, turning, different speeds? Does it go away or change if you shift into nuetral and let it idle? Do you feel it in the steering wheel or in the seat/floor?
You could be experiencing what has come to be known as the "death wobble".
If so, make certain all the front end components are tight, and you may need an alignment. Sometimes a slight change in caster angle is required to fix it. Do a search on death wobble to learn more.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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i just had both u-joints replaced on my drive shaft today. the front was still ok. the rear one had some play in it-which caused a pretty good vibration/shudder at certain speeds.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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2 piece drive shafts w/lift kits

I can tell you this...

I've had 2 Dodges, both quad cabs, & long bed. The rear drive shafts on those were 2 piece shafts with a carrier at the split.

When you lift a truck (like I did, first one 5.5" this one 4.5", and I see you did as well), you've introduced an angle between the 2 shafts. They are no longer in-line. Not even close anymore.

When the truck is under any load, there will be a 'wobble' between the 2 shafts that you will definately feel, at any speed.

I fabricated spacers to put under the bearing carrier which brought the 2 shafts in-line. Problem (wobble) went away.
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Old May 22, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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-Everything spins on my front end, shaft and axle.
-had front end alignment done 1 week ago. caster is around 3 on both sides. Mabey it needs more than that but the tech told me that's all he could get.
-Could the grommets for the track arms be worn out. Mabey they need to be replaced on the lift kit?
-All components are tight.
-Not the death wobble, this happens every time at stated speeds under all driving conditions
-no bent wheels
-tires are not out of round
-even tried the centrimatic wheel balancers with no effect on the shake.
-dropped carrier baring no launch shudder
-ALL U joints are good
-shake occurs with no load b/w 55-70 mph with any other condition hard or soft acceleration.
-I do have a bad passenger top ball joint
-pretty sure it's not anything on the rear drive train. All components have zero play. Plus I've driven over 40K with the lift kit and this has simply popped up out of no where. Something has obviously worn out, I just can't figure out what.
-front drive train has play.

thanks for the responses
jamie
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Old May 23, 2006 | 02:14 AM
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1st of all. The front shaft will spin on all 3rd gen models.
2nd check the front shaft bolts, use lock-tite (red) on the bolts.
3rd replace the passenger side upper and lower ball joints.

I believe the shaking is caused by the play in the ball joint. Only after 40k and now you have the shakes, yeah its the ball joint. If it was me I would replace both sides (driver & passenger) upper and lowers.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 10:35 AM
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You could remove the front driveshaft and go for a drive. Easier to remove that then replace ball joint to find out it still happens.

BUT, you should still replace the ball joint, of course. Just faster to remove driveshaft for testing.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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I can't loosen the torx bolts that attach the shaft to the yoke. I've tried and the bit just strips. I will get the ball joint fixed. As I remember reading the ball joint is allowed some movement but it should be so little that you can't tell it's moving. Sound right? Mine moves and you can see it and feel it.

on a different note I got the owner of my DC dealer involved and the service department is now going to help me with chasing down this shake. They want to rebuild the transfer case where it is loose$$$$. I would rather they remove the shaft first and take a test drive to see if that's the cause.

thanks for the responses

Jamie
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Old May 23, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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wonder what happened to my signature???
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Old May 23, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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My caster is close to 5 (4.7 and 4.8). I've read on here that on the dodge's, it needs to be set up aggresively, and is many times the issue w/death wobble and vibrations.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmac
Today, after climbing under and looking at everything I've found that the front drive shaft as it connects to the transfer case is about 1/8" loose with a metalic "clank" every time I push on it. Common sense tells me this isn't normal. Would it be causing the whole truck to shake, common sense tells me yes.



any help on this issue?

thanks Jamie
When you say it moves when you push on it, is the shaft moving sideways? the should be 0 side to side movement in the shaft. if there is, it could be the ball and cup in between the u-joints is worn. It is supposed to keep the shaft in alignment.
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Old May 23, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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Jmac, You need to take the front shaft off. 9 times out of ten if the ujoints are ok on the rear shaft, and at the hubs then it is the Front shaft which is a CV shaft with 4 ujoints. If your under warranty get the dealer to change everything at once the .....the transfer case yoke and front shaft. If not then run to a drive line specialist. This shaft spins all the time but it seems because it does not have any load on it.....it tends to wobble...alot. Go to a driveline specialist shop. What happens is the ujoints go and then the centering ball and cup gets worn out from the play and you will go over a bump and the shaft will move out of alignment and will wobble and shake the truck to crap. Dodge will want to replace the whole shaft which is about $450. A driveline shop will replace the 4 ujoints at $25 a piece, replace the ball and cup assemby $50 and re balance the shaft $50 + $50 re re. The new ujoints will be greasable and the centering ball will be better than stock. This will cost you about 40% of what Dodge wants you to do. If you have to replace the shaft get an aftermarket from one of the big 4x4 offroad shops. It will have ujoints 2 sizes up a larger diameter shaft and mondo centering ball for about $550. This will last forever. Its hard to tell if the ujoints on these trucks are bad until they are really bad. If you get a click or clunk shifting from rev to forward then back the rear ujoints are the cause. If the truck is smooth when in 4wd then the front shaft is the problem. If the truck is loose going over bumpy roads the Ball joints are gone. Good luck. If you need the shop for the offroad shaft pm me. ks
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Old May 24, 2006 | 03:20 AM
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Your signature only shows up in your first post on any topic...
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Old May 24, 2006 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dodgezilla
Your signature only shows up in your first post on any topic...
Saved the day again Zilla!!!!!!!!!!!
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