Would anyone happen to know a good method to drain/flush out the trans cooler? After snapping the input shaft i'm thinking maybe a little metal might have made it's way through the system. It broke into very large chunks but some metal would have looped through right?

Also i'm looking for the torque specs for the flexplate/tq converter bolts/bellhouing bolts.

I'm just about ready to stab the trans back in, any little tips on re-installing?

Thanks.

 

Anybody at least know the TQ specs?

 

computer is being very slow. will have tq specs for you in a moment Nate

 

here is a lot more than you asked for but good info for all


Fitting, cooler line at trans 13ftlbs
Bolt, torque convertor 35ftlbs
Bolt, clevis bracket to crossmember 35ftlbs
Bolt, clevis bracket to rear support 50ftlbs
Bolt, driveplate to crankshaft 55ftlbs
Plug, front band reaction 13ftlbs
Locknut, front band adj. 25ftlbs
Bolt, fluid pan 120 inlbs
Screws, fluid filter 35inlbs
Bolt, oil pump 15ftlbs
Bolt, overrunning clutch cam 13ftlbs
Bolt, O/D to trans. 25ftlbs
Bolt, O/D piston retainer 13ftlbs
Plug, pressure test port 10ftlbs
Bolt, reaction shaft support 15ftlbs
Locknut, rear band 30ftlbs
Bolt, valve body to case 100inlbs
Sensor, trans speed 20ftlbs
Screw, solenoid wiring connector 35inlbs
Screw, solenoid to transfer plate 35inlbs
Bracket, transmission range sensor mounting 25ftlbs
Screw, transmision range sensor to mounting bracket 45inlbs


well if I missed it from above, i sure can't find the tq on the bellhousing bolts. here is the entire install procedure.

INSTALLATION
Check torque converter hub inner and outer diameters and hub drive notches for sharp edges burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and notches with 320/400 grit paper and crocus cloth if necessary. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging pump seal at installation.
Lubricate pocket in the rear oil pump seal lip with transmission fluid.
Lubricate converter pilot hub of the crankshaft with a light coating of Mopar® High Temp Grease.
Align and install converter in oil pump.
Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in pump gears.
Check converter seating with steel scale (1) and straightedge (2) (Checking Converter Seating - Typical). Surface of converter lugs should be 19mm (0.75 in.) to rear of straightedge when converter is fully seated.
Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
Position transmission on jack and secure it with chains.
Check condition of converter driveplate. Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged. Also be sure transmission dowel pins are seated in engine block and protrude far enough to hold transmission in alignment.
Raise transmission and align converter with drive plate and converter housing with engine block.
Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower or tilt transmission to align converter housing with engine block dowels.
Carefully work transmission forward and over engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in crankshaft.
Install bolts (5)(Transmission Mounting and Fill Tube) attaching transmission (3) to engine adapter (2).
Install rear support.
Install the rear transmission crossmember.
Lower transmission onto crossmember and install bolts attaching transmission mount to crossmember.
Remove engine support fixture.
Install the transfer case, if equipped. (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE/TRANSFER CASE - INSTALLATION)
Install crankshaft position sensor. (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - INSTALLATION)
Connect gearshift cable (1)(Gearshift Cable At Transmission) and throttle cable to transmission.
Connect cooler lines (6, 7)(Transmission Oil Cooler Lines) to transmission (5).
Connect wires to the transmission range sensor and transmission solenoid connector. Be sure the transmission harnesses are properly routed.
CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be used to attach the converter to the driveplate. Bolts that are too long will damage the clutch surface inside the converter.

Install torque converter-to-driveplate bolts.
Install converter housing access cover.
Install starter motor and cooler line bracket. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION)
Install transmission fill tube (7)(Transmission Mounting and Fill Tube). Install new seal (6) on tube before installation.
Install any exhaust components previously removed.
Align and connect propeller shaft. (Refer to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - INSTALLATION)
Adjust gearshift cable and throttle valve cable, if necessary.
Install the transfer case skid plate, if equipped.
Lower vehicle.
Fill transmission with Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.

 

this may give you an idea. could not find the tq values for the bellhousing on the auto tranny but found them for the nv4500 (i know its not apples to apples but a general idea)

Clean housing mounting surface of engine block with wax and grease remover.
Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels are in good condition and properly seated.
Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot, fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new housing.
Install structural dust cover if removed (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/STRUCTURAL COVER - INSTALLATION).
Align and install clutch housing on engine (CLUTCH HOUSING - NV4500). Tighten housing bolts across the top of the housing first and to the following torque values:
“A” bolts 1/4in. diameter - 4.5 N·m (40 in.lb.)
“A” bolts 3/8in. diameter - 40 N·m (30 ft.lb.)
“A” bolts 7/16in. diameter - 68 N·m (50 ft.lb.)
“B” bolts for 5.7L 5.9L TD/8.0L engines - 47.5 N·m (40 ft.lb.)
“C” bolts for 5.7L engine - 68 N·m (50 ft.lb.)
“C” bolts for 5.9L TD engine - 47.5 N·m (35 ft.lb.)
“C” bolts for 8.0L engine - 74.5 N·m (55 ft.lb.)
Install starter to clutch housing.
Install transmission and transfer case, if equipped.

 

Thank you much Chris!

Can't wait to get this tranny installed. It's been 8 long months.

 

git r dun brother! post pics when done. hope that info helps ya