This is for a 48re
Front Band is for Kick Down
1) Raise Vehicle
2) Loosen Band Adjusting Screw locknut and back off 3 to 5 turns. Apply lubricant to threads if needed.
3) Tighten band screw to 72in/lbs
4) Back of Front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns
5) Hold adjusting screw in position and tighten locknut to 30ft/lbs

Rear band is for reverse and low
1) Raise Vehicle
2) Remove Transmission oil pan and drain fluid
3) Loosen Adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns making sure it moves freely
4) Tighten Adjusting screw to 72in/lbs
5) Back off adjusting screw 3 turns
6) Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten lock nut to 25ft/lbs
7) position new gasket and install pan torqing pan bolts to 13ft/lbs
8) Lower vehicle and refill transmission with Mopar ATF+4

 

No.But ther ban adjust is NEVER out.I've seen litery hundereds if not thousands.I worry more about folks trying this at HOME and causing a problem.Ask ANY GOOD trans builder about the BAN myth.They all will crack a slight grin and say yea right.Even experianced trans builders DON"T mess with the adjustment on theirs eaither.

 

I don't know why they put that in the manual, to adjust "the bands" at the first tranny fluid change? That should only be done after a full rebuild pro or if you already have a problem and need a rebuild. It's kinda like changing your engine oil every three months or 7500 miles whichever occurs first. DC puts that in the manual to cover their butts not your tranny. Adjusting tranny bands should not be done by the shade tree guy period. You will likely cause a problem rather than adjust anything. If your trans is not shifting correctly under warranty have them do it. Anyone ever heard of Tim Holt on Diesel Ram.Com. He owns and runs a tranny shop in Texas. I have a good buddy marcel here that does trannys and he says don't do it . It is a old leftover from the past and you don't need to mess with it, changed the fluid/filter and be done!

 

Here's my .02$.....First service I recommend dropping the pan and checking the l/r and kickdown band + filter. I find more extremely loose bands from the factory than from any percieved "wear". If your band is "wearing" you have some issues.

 

Your comparing aples to oranges here. if your tranny is getting a flare from 2nd to 3rd or slipping in second then there is a problem with the band. other than that adjusting the band will do nothing that you will be able to detect after adjusting it. your clutches will wear out way before either band will. I have owned automatics all my life and have never had to adjust a band except after a rebuild. Its something that you can do if you want but its nothing to worry about as a regular maintanance item. If it makes you feel better then do it. also the adjusment isnt really there for wear its for proper setup and forget it.

 

I agree that you will not be able to feel the difference after a band adjustment, but if you wait until you feel slipping, then you are causing a great deal more wear. The servo piston can only travel so far to compensate for wear. After that, the band will slip.

 

Thats true....but there will be a very obvious flare. if you keep driving it with the flare then yes you will where it out. if its not flaring then its probably not slipping........

 

Chezz.Adjust them if you want but the PROS's don't.The ONLY times I've heard anyone adjustimg them is a FEW from these sites.If HEAVY towing get the unit flushed every 15k or lite usage every 30k and filter at 60k if heavy or 90k if lite and leave the pan and bans ALONE.

 

Hounddog, You don't think the filter needs changed?

Guys, the bands have a wear-in that gets them seated. They do need to be checked.
This is not a " tighten the bands" need. It is about correct adjustment.
Different years/models have different specs.
In my opinion, the bands need to be checked depending on how you drive it- the power the motor in front of it makes- and miles driven.
Always change the fluid AND filter every 10,000 to 25,000 miles. How are you using your truck?
The front band will need adjustment more often. And very soon if you experience a flair shift from 2-3. ( it is too loose).
The bands will wear out sooner if you manually shift a stock trans.

 

well J-Fox you must be a auto tech and in the business for years? Filters are good to at least 60k or more.On normal autos WE suggested as high as 90k.Handled and saw as many as 80 vehicles a day for 8 years or so with flush's only until those mileages.G.M.'s/Isuzu/Mazda/Nissan/D.C. products.Lots of vehicles now don't even have servicable filters unless major overhaul.Look in the LIGHT USAGE portion of YOUR owners manual and read.Handled work fleets,plummer,elect trucks and some taxi's this way.Mail Jeeps and some others in real hard use with non caring drivers we fushed every 15k or as needed.Increased the longeivity of the auto transmissions by 2 and 3 fold over dropping pan and just adding a few quarts of fliud.ALSO killed any LEAKS that were created by pan r&R. The FLUSH system is THE only time I had comments about a noticeable improvement in trans operation and feel.Even had a few Gran Cherokees/Caravans and trucks with morning sickness(hard drum seals)that for a while were cured and manged another 30k or so out of before tearing down to repair.Best thing since sliced bread for a auto transmission and consumers.

 

never seen a 2-3 shift flair up caused by loose 2nd gear band. raced them for years. once in a great while would have a loose 2nd gear band, but flair up was always due to 3rd gear clutch problems.

 

What is flare up?

 

flare up is engine revving between shifts or slippage. 2nd band releasing before 3rd gear clutches apply. third gear apply oil also releases the 2nd gear band. there is a release spring in sec band servo but one could leave it out and the trans would still work. i have done this on a couple of them with no problems, racing transmissions.

 

I'm not going to argue.
I stand by my opinion.

 

I stand by my experiance and knowledge.