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in-tank lift pumps: truth, myths, speculations, lies.

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Old 01-07-2006, 02:51 PM
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Angry

i have a reto intank pump that failed in 1 month and in less than 10k miles.i change the fuel filter every other oilchange regaurdlees if it needs changing or not.i think they are junk just like the first pump that was on my truck. it all started a few weeks after i had the intank pump installed. the truck took longer and longer to crank.i took it to the stealers and they said there was nothing wrong with my truck. so i kept driving it,then it died while driving in colorado with a heavy load on my my 40 foot flat. it took me cranking on it for two minutes before it started.it done the exact sameting after i shut it off and went to start it again. it still had not thrown a code.so when i get home i take it to the stealers again and they say it was bad fuel and charged me $89.00.take the truck home to drain the tank.well i noticed they did not drop the tank like they said they did. the bolts and nuts did not have any scuff marks on them.so i ran the tank empty and filled with fresh fuel. it was still hard to start for the next two days . there were no codes as of yet, then it would not start at all,thats when the code finally came to be. all this time i was right that the pump was not working properly.now i am worried about my cp3. i hope this helps
Old 01-07-2006, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by P.J
Wow, that was dramtic.
Yeah, this is getting serious.

How goes it PJ?
Old 01-07-2006, 04:05 PM
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Lets keep this thread on topic.

Is WhiteGhosts failure #2 or #3 that we know of ?

The thing that bothers me about the in tank pump is its pressure capabilities. 7-10 PSI is what I am hearing. It is not a heavy duty pump. Lets see what happens if/when we get a good cold spell.
Old 01-07-2006, 04:20 PM
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Well, I've been watching all these posts about the lift pumps with great interest. I have an 03 HO/auto I bought at 40K, and it JUST had the CP3 replaced right before I bought it, I found out. There's no indication that the LP has ever been replaced.

I need to get gauges, but I'm a bit surprised that nobody much is talking about what F.A.S.S. stands for and how much the A.S. part means as whether it is a valid concern or not. I like that the frame-mounted filters are easier to get to, on my 2500 at least, than under-hood components, and that there are Fleetgaurd replacements for them.

I have STUDIED SuperDuty's solution, and I like it a lot, but if I understand correctly, the FASS will not overpressure either the CP3 or the fuel filter, and it's a complete kit, right?

I asked my diesel tech at my local dealer about the filter-mounted lift pump if my regular one should fail on my truck, and he said, with no bones about it, that he would install a FASS over a tank-mounted pump if it were his truck.

He even implied that they could get DC to contribute the tank-mount warrantee cost toward the me-supplied FASS.

This is a small to mid-size dealer where they call you by name when you walk in. The service manager IS the service writer, and they definitely want my continued business. They've done right by me so far, and I don't have the facilities to install a FASS, or hardly anything else, where I live.
Old 01-07-2006, 04:56 PM
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"I'm a bit surprised that nobody much is talking about what F.A.S.S. stands for and how much the A.S. part means as whether it is a valid concern or not."

I put a reply to this and the filter bursting question here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...306#post860306

It is post #80.
Old 01-07-2006, 06:00 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Vulcan
Yeah, this is getting serious.

How goes it PJ?
Very well my friend, systems all on and leak free. I had a chance to get some help from my brother the weekend before Christmas. Since I only get to see him two or three times a year, this was a good time for both of us. He has superior mechanical skills compared to me (he has $65,000 in student loans to prove it) The install went nice and smooth.

Since I didn't have a FP gauge hooked up until the day of the install (wanted to use your fitting) I have no benchmark for what it's doing.

I can tell everyone that my fuel pressure (carter pump on frame rail) is 15-15.5 at idle, 14 cruising and NO LESS THAN 12.5 full tilt all the way as fast as she'll go.

Keep on topic, I may not have a new style intank set up, but darn close. I cut my OE hard line very close to the tank (actually in the short 45* bend!)
I think most guys use the next hole up on the frame, I went as far back as I thougt I could.
I wanted as little restriction as possible and I think that's what I have!
Old 01-07-2006, 06:16 PM
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This may be a little off topic, but White Ghost stated something that made me reply. "There were no codes until it died". I don't know what is is, but I think car manufactures are intentionaly looking to pad the walets of the service dep. cause they can't sell vehicles. I will NEVER trust any so called fail safe light or computer controlled system on my truck. The reason for this is I wanted to find out at what temp the tranny light came on. No service manager could tell me so one finally sent an e-mail to the regional DC engineer team. They finally found out that it trips@ 260*!!! I said oh $hit my tranny is a dead man walking @ 250*. Right then they put in a manual gauge and only charged me for the gauge. And they said from now on whenever someone came in for tranny service they will strongly reccomend they get a manual gauge. After this episode, I researched into the factory set paramiters. Most are not set to give you a warning until major damage has allredy occured. Come to find out, most new vehicles are now designed this way. I personally know of three parts, and 2 service managers who have quit ther respective jobs at different dealers do to the practice of knowingly installing inferior warranty parts. To qote one: "Sir, there is no way this part will last if I replaced it with the same exact thing" service manager says, "but the owner won't know it until the warranty runs out, and then we get the full cost of repair". My friend told the owner about what happens and my friend gets fired. You can't completely blame the service managers, cause they are under extreme pressure to improve the lagging sales depts. profits. Keep this in mind the next time you get something replaced under warranty.
Old 01-07-2006, 11:37 PM
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all i know is i went through 3 on the filter housing pos pumps, and when they came out with the in tank one had some very cold temps also up here and its been 10mth now without a hiccup, also the engine mounted pump would run out of fuel with my mods and now the in tank one doesnt so whatever i still have lots of warranty left so ill leave it a that, and by the way i thenk tech line told me that the intank pumps push 16-18psi not 7psi and have much more volume.
Old 01-07-2006, 11:56 PM
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Here:
http://dieselram.com/cgi-bin/ultimat...c;f=2;t=003796

================================================
They no longer replace the stock LP, and now use the in tank pump. When I picked up the truck, the Isspro gauge said it was putting out 7 psi. I decided to give them the benefit of the doubt, and assumed there was air in the line. By the time I drove home, it climbed to 10 psi. Bled the line to the isolator, and did a 50 mile trip. It got up to 13psi, and hovered between there and 10 psi. Put a shop fuel pressure gauge in at the ame point as the line from the filter access point (output from filter to IP). Both read exactly the same at 8 psi without bleeding. That told me the Isspro was accurate.
Re-bled it, and it's staying between 7 psi and 8 psi. Drove to work and back with no change.
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and

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Ok heres my intank deal I have 13 lbs at idle and cant get down past 10 lbs wot I upgraded to the vulcan big line kit and it helped alot getting rid of the banjos.make sure your vent is not cloged and check the voltage to the pump this may be why some are seeing better presure than others with the intank.
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and

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hey guys new to the forum, but the same problems, had the in tank put in last week i,m 6-7 psi and nervous my vp is new, how much will the vulcan line kit gain me and where can i get one. As soon as i asked the tech at the dealer about the low psi he said volume and quality of fuel are far more important than pressure . a load of bs or what
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Here is another one.
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...d.php?t=148046

"I had my lift pump on a 2002 24 valve replaced under warrenty with the new in tank pump that Dodge is using and when I drove the truck my BD Low Fuel psi indicator still came on. I went back to the dealer and was told that they only test for flow not pressure. I have connected a pressure gauge where the indicator mounts and I get 7psi at idle and 4-5 psi while running. Can ayone tell me what pressures the new in tank lift pumps run at?"

"I had the new in-tank replacement done a 5K miles ago. My psi at the Schrader valve is 8 psi at idle, 7-8 psi at 65-75 mph and 5-6 under WOT from a standing start to 80 mph."
Old 01-08-2006, 01:24 PM
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Superduty,

I finally went back and read some of your threads out of interest. I have my feed solution handled but I went back out of curiosity. If I'm reading all of this correctly the only difference in your system is the particular brand of pump you chose and the small bypass line that you added, correct?

Richard
Old 01-08-2006, 02:07 PM
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I addressed this in the What is so great about FASS thread.
Old 01-08-2006, 06:27 PM
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Thanks, Superduty. Another thread to go read!
Old 01-09-2006, 12:45 AM
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i think the older ones like in your thread ran lower pressure than the cr ones, but i will check with mine and see .
Old 01-09-2006, 08:30 PM
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i was right the intank pump was bad.they finally ordered it today. i tried to get them to give me the cost of the intank pump so i could put it towards a fass system.i guess that i will start saving for the fass.hopefully i will have before the intank goes out again.
Old 01-11-2006, 11:51 AM
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I finally found some information on pressures to the fuel filter setup. Although this relates to Dahl setups, it shows a max working pressure of 25 psi to the filter units.

www.baldwinfilter.com/products/Dahl.pdf


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