Is there anyone who uses it, My only concern is that it is not 15w 40. its like 5w 40.

 

i've used just regular rotella for years now. i know that there are many who sing the praises of synthetic but regular dino oil has always done me just fine. i change my oil every 5000 miles in the cummins and every 3000 miles in our car religiously.

britt

 

I don't use it, but I intend on switching over to it. I believe the recommended switch point is 30,000 miles. Anyone confirm/deny this? I'm at 27,600, so I intend to switch over to synthetic at my 30,000 mile oil change unless I hear otherwise. I do my oil changes every 7,500 miles, BTW.

 

yep 30,000 is the recommended mileage

britt

 

Something that I've noticed……..the Rotella web site says Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 meets API CI-4 spec (3rd Gen engine requirement)…….

"Specifications and approvals
ROTELLA® T Synthetic 5W-40 meets or exceeds all requirements of API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF; and SL; Cummins CES 20078 (extended drain); Mack EO-N Premium Plus '03 (extended drain); Detroit Diesel, Dodge, Ford, International, Navistar and Volvo."

…….but I have been looking just about every time I go in Wally World and haven't seen a jug yet that has CI-4 on it. It always says it meets CH-4 only, which is the wrong spec for the 3rd Gen engines. The standard multigrade 15w40 Rotella on the shelf right next to it clearly states it meets the CI-4 spec. Makes you wonder, so I just stay away from it. VPB Extreme is fairly easy to find up here and clearly states it meets CI-4, so I run it instead.

 

I use the Rotella synthetic, works great.

 

AK RAM,
The CH-4 Rottela 5-40 is old stock, when they sell the old stock they will restock with fresh CI-4 oil. Just keep checking for when the new stock comes in.

 

Just a FYI. The CI-4 Rottela T 5-40 synthetic oil is not a true synthetic, It's a group III mineral based oil, not a group IV or V PAO synthetic oil. Refined well enough to be called a synthetic but not a true synthetic.

 

If the Rotella 5W-40 synthetic isn't an actual synthetic, then wouldn't it make sense to use a true synthetic? If so, what other options are good?

 

I just recently switched from Mobil Delvac 1300 Super to Mobil 1 Truck & SUV. Everyone claims it is relabled Mobil Delvac 1...which is supposed to be ONE of the the top synthetic oils for diesels. Twelve quarts of the T&SUV will cost you around $55 at Walmart.

 

Initial cost of buying the oil is the reason for group III synthetics. Marketing tactics by saying it is synthetic and getting more people to buy their oil over their competitors true synthetic oil that costs more. If you see two oils labeled synthetic sitting on the shelf and one sells for $13.00 a gallon and the other sells for $25.00 a gallon which one are you going to pick.

How often you change oil also plays in the cost equation.

If you do not need synthetics for extreme cold weather starts or extended oil drains of 20,000 Miles (hypothetical, you need oil analysis) then synthetics in my opinion are a waste of money.

True synthetics or group IV & V oils:
Royal purple 15-40
Redline 15-40
Amsoil 15-40 and 5-30
Mobil Delvac 1 or mobil SUV & truck oil 5-40 (they are the same)
These are man made PAO Esters.

Pretend synthetics or Hydrocracked group III oils:
Valvoline premium blue extreme 5-40
Delo 400 5-40
Rottela T 5-40
These are pretty much just super refined mineral based oils.

 

I just bought gallon jugs of VPB at Checker's. Paid $48 bucks for 4 jugs. I figure why risk it.

 

I've been using the "T" for the last five oil changes, the price seems the same? Never knew it was different.

 

So, is there any way to tell on the bottle if it's a REAL synthetic? I knew there was a difference, but didn't know how to tell.

I've been using the Rotella T, but if it's not a true synthetic I have my doubts that it's worth the extra $$$. I like a synthetic for cold flow in winter and it's not likely to burn on the turbo bearings...the pretend synthetics may give you the winter flow, but not likely to resist burning much better...

 

Absolutly no way to tell by reading any data on the bottles. The only way to tell would be to get ahold of each companies spec or data sheets, even that is becoming more and more difficult. I would say that if the company is not willing to give out their information they have something to hide. A company can give out excuses but to me thats all they are is excuses, not reliable resource data. Of course they don't care about selling to one individual when they have everyone else they can sell to under faluse protenses. They are operating within the law but still selling under faluse pretenses.