3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Resurface or replace flywheel?

Old Mar 9, 2005 | 09:32 PM
  #1  
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From: Swisher, IA
Resurface or replace flywheel?

My stock clutch is not doing so well with my Quad box, so I am going to be throwing in a South Bend clutch soon. I have read that South Bend requires you to have your flywheel surfaced to warranty their clutch. However the factory service manual recommends against having it surfaced.

" Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel
clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel
scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal is not recommended. Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release."

Who has replaced their clutch and had their flywheel machined? Where any problems encountered? Thanks for the help.

-Muzzy
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 04:03 AM
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From: N. Central Arkansas
South Bend does not want the contour left on the flywheel per their instructions. You need to have it surfaced. They will only remove a few thousandths when they grind it. So you don't need to worry about too much material being removed. It will be perfectly flat when it is done. No more taper. I doubt very seriously if you flywheel even shows any wear. Mine didn't and it was abused. You disc is probably glazed. RESURFACE- follow SB instructions and all will be good. Call Peter at SB if you have any concerns he will answer your questions.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 08:55 AM
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whamby-

Thanks for the help. I'll have it surfaced to true it up and break the glaze.

-Muzzy
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 08:56 AM
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One other ?... How do you like your SB Con FE? Is the engagement pretty smooth? Thanks again.

-Muzzy
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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From: arvada co
clutch replacement

I just replaced my clutch last weekend! flywheel was smooth I did not resurface it clutch works fine. I replaced i with a new LUK CERAMETALLIC clutch WOW what a difference. You might go to the dial-a-clutch website before you buy the South bend,some interesting info about clutches.I'm not bashing south bend because I've heard good things about them just saying you have choices.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 06:18 PM
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Haven't got to drive mine yet the flywheel has been at the machine shop for over a week waiting to get bored for a roller bearing instead of a needle bearing pilot bearing. Should finally be done by lunch tomorrow. I should have it on the road by dark. Snakefarmer is right there are choices but I would strongly suggest having the flywheel surfaced regardless of clutch brand. The amount of material actually removed is minimal. You have spent a lot of money and time to skip a step that can save your clutch life and provide better contact surface. Would you put on new brakes without turning the rotors? The factory contour is one of LUK/DC's ideas that when hot it will flatten out and make good contact. I believe that is BS. Just another way to sell you something you don't really need by saying the flywheel can't be surfaced. Call any tranny shop/machine shop and they will all say they surface them flat.

Just my .02 please do not take my opinions as a flame. Everybody has thier own opinion on how to do things.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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snakefarmer-

You don't know how long I've mulled over getting the Luk Cerametallic or the South Bend Con Fe. I know semi tractors use ceramic clutches with great success over the older organic materials. However, I have heard the ceramic based clutches are harsh on engagement and over time will destroy u-joints and differentials. The second reason I am leaning towards the South Bend is because the amount of torque it can hold without slipping. I plan on bulding around 450 RWHP with 900-1000 lb/ft of torque. I know the South Bend is tried and true, but I haven't heard much about Luk Cerametallic in higher horsepower/torque applications. Correct me if I am wrong or can anyone chime in with some testimonials? I would love to save $300 bucks.

whamby-

I have no problem having my flywheel surfaced before throwing in the new clutch. I have installed many clutches in cars and that was standard practice to have the flywheel surfaced. This is the first service manual that I came across that stressed replacing it instead of having it surfaced. That is why I am inquiring from others that replaced their clutches whether they replaced their flywheel per factory recommendation or had theirs resurfaced. I plan on doing the latter and saving the extra $300 for another mod. I wanted to make sure no one ran into any problems with having it surfaced before doing so and this is the best place to do it.

-Muzzy
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 09:54 PM
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From: Arizona
In most cases resurfacing the flywheeel will not harm it, if the flywheel is warped or heat checked then I would concider replacing the flywheel. The clutch hydraulic systems in these trucks are touchy .025" removed from the flywheel may and I say MAY cause a release problem. I would also strongly recomend having the balanced checked after you resurface the flywheel to insure that the balance is still to spec. Most Metalic type disc can be used with-out resufacing the flywheel as long as it is still flat and in good shape. When you have Organic type material used on the disc it is recommended to resurface the flywheel and use a new pressure plate, this is to insure that the clutch will properly seat-in. Ask the machine shop how much material was removed, then ask them if the Grinding stone was touching evenly all the way around the flywheel when it started cutting the flywheel. If it was cutting uneven you MAY have three problems, (1) a out of balance flywheel or (2) the flywheel will not spin true causing chatter or (3) causing a disengagement problem ( Not releasing).

Just my .02
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 10:34 PM
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the FE is a sintered iron friction material. it's stronger than the ceramitallic material that Luk uses... the Luk is decent, but it'll wear out much quicker than the SBC.

Forrest
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Old Mar 11, 2005 | 09:11 AM
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From: arvada co
luk clutch

I'm not sure about the cerametallic wearing out faster, after all ceramic is harder than steel. I use ceramic blades to sharpen my knives and there going on 10 years and no sign of wear. The reasons I went with the luk clutch are price, they're new not remanufactured,and the rep told me the people who order them are very pleased with the performance very few returns,also the engagement is buffered and will not destroy the driveline components like some straight ceramic clutches.
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Old Mar 11, 2005 | 11:57 AM
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From: Central VT
I am in the same boat - Installing an OFE ... Where can I get a flywheel new or resurfaced? I absolutely don't have time to be down more than 1 day with my truck so I need to buy one and give my core, or whatever...
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Old Mar 11, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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From: N. Central Arkansas
njoverkill

Most engine machine shops can resurface a flywheel in a one day turn around. It only takes a few minutes. I had mine bored for a bigger bearing so I had to wait on them to get to it. Clutch is in an smooth as can be. Slips a little on top but according to SB should be fine after seating. Mine only has about 10 miles on it. Seating takes up to 200 miles of stop and go driving. I guess I could turn the power down a little until it seats.
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