My dealer wants to charge me $1000.00 to replace the #1 injector because "it might be plugged".

I want to find out hard hard it is to remove and clean the nozzles. I understand from the FSM that the HP connectors have filters in them as well. Is this item servicable or do you just chuck it and get a whole new connector.

There's very little information on these injectors that I could find on the WWW and Dodge seems to have a lock on the new ones as well as the remans.

 

whats the truck doing that you need the injectors cleaned or replaced?

 

I can hear a hammering sounds when it's running. Evenly spaced tick-tick-tick-tick. That's from idle to redline and it gets faster with engine speed. Last week it started really knocking on acceleration and it felt like it was down significantly on power. I took it to the dealer, told them the story I just told you and they took it, plugged it in, did some tests, took it for a drive, said the injectors were all right electrically but the #1 injector looked like it clogged, probably from the nozzle.

That's why I want to know how hard it is to remove a nozzle and clean it. There's no information on the WWW and when I ask on other boards, nobody seems to know. I don't want to play the "lets replace parts until we find the one that's defective" game the dealer seems to be angling for.

 

CAUTION: Refer to Cleaning Fuel System Parts.

Six individual, solenoid actuated high-pressure fuel injectors are used (FUEL INJECTOR - DIESEL). The injectors are vertically mounted into a bored hole in the top of the cylinder head. This bored hole is located between the intake/exhaust valves. High-pressure connectors (HIGH-PRESSURE CONNECTOR), mounted into the side of the cylinder head, connect each fuel injector to each high-pressure fuel line.

Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables.
Remove breather assembly.
Remove valve cover. Refer to Engines for procedures.
Remove necessary high pressure fuel line connecting necessary fuel injector rail to high pressure connector. Refer to Fuel Line Removal for procedures.
A connector retainer (nut) (HIGH-PRESSURE CONNECTOR) is used on each connector tube. Remove this nut(s) by unthreading from cylinder head.
Using special high-pressure connector removal tool #9015 (CONNECTOR TUBE REMOVAL), or (TOOL #9015 AND CONNECTOR TUBE) remove necessary high-pressure connector(s) from cylinder head. Tool #9015 threads onto connector tube. Use tool to pry connector tube(s) from cylinder head.
Remove necessary exhaust rocker arm assembly(s).
Disconnect injector solenoid wire nuts at top of injectors (FUEL INJECTORS).
Remove 2 fuel injector hold-down clamp bolts at each injector being removed.
USING TOOL #9010:
Special Tool #9010 (FUEL INJECTOR REMOVER - #9010) is equipped with 2 clamshell clamps, a sliding retainer sleeve to retain the clamshell clamps, a 2–piece mounting stud, and a pivoting handle. Do not attempt to remove the fuel injector with any other device. Damage to injector will occur.
The rocker housing (FUEL INJECTORS) is bolted to the top of cylinder head. The mounting stud from tool #9010 was meant to temporarily replace a rocker housing mounting bolt. Remove the necessary rocker housing mounting bolt. These mounting bolts are located at the center of each of the 3 rocker housing support bridges.
Install and tighten 2–piece mounting stud to rocker housing. If removing the #6 fuel injector, separate the 2–piece mounting stud. Install lower half of mounting stud to center of rocker housing bridge. Install upper half of mounting stud to lower half.
Position tool handle to mounting stud and install handle nut. Leave handle nut loose to allow a pivoting action.
Position lower part of clamshell halves to sides of fuel injector (wider shoulder to bottom). The upper part of clamshell halves should also be positioned into machined shoulder on the handles pivoting head.
Slide the retainer sleeve over pivoting handle head to lock clamshell halves together.
Be sure handle pivot nut is loose.
Depress handle downward to remove fuel injector straight up from cylinder head bore.
Remove and discard injector sealing washer. This should be located on tip of injector (FUEL INJECTOR SEALING WASHER (SHIM) LOCATION) or (MEASURING INJECTOR SEALING WASHER (SHIM)).

 

I never use the special tools to get them out. I just use a screw driver to pop out the transfer tubes and most of the time the injector will come out by hand and if not i pry on it alittle with a screw driver.

 

when is the last time the valves where adjusted ? mine did the same thing and i lashed the valves to .008 and .018 and the ticking went away. some were pretty far off. i did this at 40,000 miles. i beat the crap out of my truck though so i figured they would be off.

 

Just had them done to the same spec. It made a remarkable improvement to the level of noise which highlighted the knocking I hear even more

Just to be clear, aside from the recent problem of knocking (pre-ignition/lean burn?), I have had no problems with driveability. The thing starts great, even on cold mornings (30F) it just fires up and runs, it just has this loud tick-tick-tick-tick-tick that the dealer says might be cured if I toss a g-note at it.

I'm far too curious to take that route.

 

have you tryed runnign it really hard for a day, sometimes that will blow it out. or pull something heavey up a hill with it.

try putting a good work load on it and see what happens.

 

get some new injectors...i was at a site yesterday, i think it was like performance by poole or something and he has some pretty good looking ones for less than the dealer wants for that one...might be something to look into to

brett

 

http://www.powerbypoole.com/home.html

 

Pour in a heavy dose (32oz) of Power Service Diesel Klean and drive the dog snot out of it. Should help clean the injector tips.

MikeyB

 

So out of the 164 people who have viewed this thread so far, nobody has ever removed their injector nozzles to clean them? Or is a case of those who have just don't want to share? Come on, somebody must be able to answer my original question

HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE NOZZLES???????

 

I'm not an expert, but since you asked......

When I removed my stock injectors at about 70k, they had a pretty nasty carbon build up on them. I didn't clean them, instead I installed new nozzles from Dynomite. I do remember from somewhere that you should use a soft brush (like a soft toothbrush) and some injector cleaner like powerservice or lucas and lightly brush out the deposits on the end of the injector. It might be a good idea to remove the nozzle to do this. As far as time goes, it might take you close to 2 hours as you've never done it before. I don't know if the tubes are serviceable or not. Lenny at Dynomite diesel can give you a great rundown over the phone if you'd rather go that route. good luck.

This link should be what you're looking for.. scroll down about 1/2 way

http://www.dynomitediesel.com/tech.htm

 

Great info! Thanks so much for taking the time to reply. So do the nozzles just screw out of the injector body? Does anything come free when you remove the nozzle?

I'm leaning toward just replacing the nozzles but I just want to know what I'm getting into with taking the injectors apart before I decide.

Thanks again for the helpful post. Cheers!

 

I talked to Cummins Southern Plains about cleaning my injectors for the same problem you are having, I was quoted 3hrs of labor @ $80.00 plus the cleaner.