Anyone have a trick to get those bloody wheel bearings off the front of an 03 2500 CTD 4X4?????

So far brute force and ignorance is failing. The 4 mounting bolts and axle nut are removed and from looking at the new ones, these should be the only fastening points.

TIA
Cya

 

You need to put 2 of the bolts back in, but not all the way( about 1/4" out) get a heafty rod to go between the two bolts and the axel. Hold the rod and have a helper turn the wheel back and forth until you press them out. BE CAREFUL!!!!! To bad antiseize cost so much other wise the factory would put some on at the factory.

 

Getting those wheel bearings off is no fun. You can put a puller on them; however the wheel bearings are likely to separate. I put a puller on one then beat the bolts from the back and it came out. The other separated. Even after it separated the ½ in the hub was a challenge to remove.

The power steering press method didn’t work for me, but I didn’t try all that hard with it.

 

Sometimes you have to "YANK" the wheel to get them to pop. It has worked flawlessly for me every time! I did go to NAPA and get some long wheel studs though. They screw into the bearing , have a lot more room to travel, and have a bigger head to get the spacer shaft to set on. Do be careful though! Use some long visegrips or something to keep your hands away from the pinch points!

 

Thanks guys, they are coming off today come hell or high water. Anti-sieze has become my friend with this truck, think aluminum wheels and steel hubs.

The power steering was one thought and we appreciate the tips. If we come up with something new, we'll post it.

Cya

 

I did see a post where a a guy loosened up the bearing bolts then drove his truck down his driveway whipping the wheel back and forth to loosen the stuck bearings. I'd give that a shot had I do do it over again.

One of the issues is that you can't use heat, the bearing retainers are plastic, so is the anti-lock sensor.

Like posted, you could try the power steering/press method and move the wheel quick. I was too afraid to do that and would rather just destroy the bearings with a puller and replace them rather than risk damaging something else, but guys have luck with it.

 

I had to change both of mine and ran into the same problems getting them off. I've found that using a air hammer with a blunt end with longer bolts works. I think the constant vibration works better than big blows with a 3 lb maul.

 

How long did it take you to get them off (each) with the air hammer?

 

With using the power steering trick, I had both hub units pulled and new u-joints put in , in under 2 hours. Best time I have EVER done them in! Wondering the whole time, why hadn't I ever done this before?!?!?

 

R&R complete! Press with the steering worked great. I actually didn't start the engine and just yanked with the steering wheel. Thought I'd try that before I added power. A small opening appeared and with working side to side on the bolts, off they came. One was a bit tougher than the other.

For others who may have missed the "rod on the bolts" method stated above (I did until I looked at it and figured it out) I used a steel punch the proper length and placed it between the bolt head and the axle tube while a friend worked the steering wheel. I would use the power steering next time, if I had to, but hopefully the anti sieze will make it easier (use lots).

One more note, the ABS sensor cable did not have any grease in the connector from factory. I would recommend a bit of dielectric grease in these when you reassemble.

Thanks once again for all the tips and help. Turns out the rear end seems to be in trouble too. Dropped it off at the shop for warranty repair. I hope!

Cya