As I posted a while ago, I switched to Redline at 24,000KM for Engine, transfer case, and differentials.

I finally got around to changing the transmission fluid (YES I know its way before required in the service manual).

I followed a procedure I read here some time ago - I let the truck sit for a day to let as much oil as possible drain back into the pan. I then dropped the pan, changed the filter, put the pan back on, recored how much oil I drained (6 quarts) - Added that much new Redline C+.

Then, I disconnected the return line from the transmission cooler, hooked a hose up to this and directed it into a pan, started the truck & put it in neutral. Did this several times - 5 to 10 seconds each time, stop the truck, add more oil in to correspond with how much was pumped out until I had went through aprox 12 quarts (that's as much as I had of the Redline C+). The transmission holds more - but 12 quarts of redline was all I could easily get.

Well the end result - A MUCH noticable difference in sound level at hwy speed was the first thing - quieter by quite a bit.

On the overhead readout, MPG went up by nearly 3 at lower speeds (say 80-90KM/Hr) and by about 2 at 110KM/Hr+.

A definite noticable difference. The past two days I put about 600KM on the truck & there is a definite measurable improvement in fuel milage. I didn't expect this even though I'd read Redline's claims of reducing friction & improving efficency in the transmission - I guess they were telling the truth!

ZS

 

congrats, but i hope you're ready to fix that tranny outta your pocket if something happens!!
later, dustin

 

Why? Redline C+ meets all the Dodge specs. My dealer confirmed to me that there was no problem using the appropriate Redline product for all my fluids.

ZS

 

as far as i know, the only chrysler approved transmission fluid is mopart atf+4. i would have gotten it in writing from the dealer first!! btw...not trying to rain on your parade, just giving you a heads up!!
later, dustin

 

I would have used a flush machine and the full 16 or 17 qts

 

Flush Machine - Read lots of bad things there about the power flush causing crap to be forced into areas you don't want it to go... Even so I did consider this but as I describe below, it was cost prohibitive for me to obtain ENOUGH C+ to do a full flush so I decided to do what I thought was the next best thing.

Yes I would have liked to use 17 quarts+ - But I could only find one place that sold Redline near me, and they had never HEARD of C+ & never had anyone request it before - I had to give them their OWN part # to show it was in their computer, but of course, not in stock - So I had to pay $30/case shipping cost from California to get it up here to the Great White North - SO I had a choice - take 1 case of 12, or take 2 cases - I didn't need 24 quarts...I didn't need an extra $30 cost for the second case & it was expensive enough at $13/quart without worrying about having left over bottles I couldn't use, so I choose to go with 12 - changed out two thirds of the fluid which I felt was better than just dropping the pan & topping it back up..Granted this procedure was not as good as changing 100% of the fluid, but as I said originally it HAS made a noticable difference...

And my truck seems happy with me

ZS

 

I order amsoil syn trans fliud and Ups drops it at my door in 24hours.as far as flush machines I sold HUNDEREDS of flushs! Did as many as 10 to 15 a DAY .Never had such happen if the trans was ok.A BROKEN/TRASHED trans nohing helps but you know.Just FLUSHED our Mercury Marquis 4.6 auto with amsoil syn.took 14.5 qts.beeen a FLUSHING and using Amsoil syn in a 1985 Chevy Caprice Classis with 700r4 for 210k.change filter around every 90k.Also in our 1998 ram 1500 318 since 30k.Now has 60k.Rather flush it knowing fresh is going in and old coming out with a constant supply then pull the line and pump it in a pan etc.the machine PUTS NO PRESSURE on it.The engine is running and trans is in reverse with truck car idling with wheels off the ground.Has a sight glass.You can watch NEW going in and OLD coming out.Its kinda cool.The only way to do a GOOD trand service.

 

Actually you could have used the extra C+ in the power steering and the Transfer case, That is if it is really a ATF+ fluid

AMSOIL would have easier to get and cost less.

 

Yup...Would have been good to go in the Tcase too...But as my posting a few weeks ago stated - they originally gave me Redline D4 ATF when I ordered all the fluids for Engine, Diffs, transfr & transmission (my mistake - gave them wrong part number - typed one digit wrong & that made the difference betweeen D4 & C+) & I did not notice until I had put it in the transfer case - Returned the remainng D4 for refund, ordered a case of C+.

Didn't like the fact that I put D4 in the Tcase, but Redline said NO PROBLEM when I talked to them, but said DO NOT put D4 into the transmission. My dealer later told me the same thing..D4 fine for Tcase & no warentee problems in the future...

and no..I don't have it in writing
<I will now hang my head in shame & pray that I never need to worry about warentee service >

ZS

(PS: I still LOVE my truck! I will sleep tonight dreaming about driving it tomorrow!)

 

Where I use to work,they have a 99 Superduty 7.3 and the trans pan has never been off in 226000 miles,they just have it flushed every 5000 miles.

 

One of the reasons for the flush is to prevent pulling pans.thats when they LEAK.Industary stantard is FILTERS are good to 100k.On autos coming into the shop for regular maintance we FLUSHED every 30k and sold filters and flush at around 90 to 100k.Ones with pans that are angled like Caravans etc.the leak factor was a PAIN.A recheck in the works.The flush also was THE first time doing a trans service that folks later said it actually shifted smoother and lock up was smoother etc.ONLY way to go on MAIL JEEPS! The AW4 trans in them is a more or less permanant filter and the fliud in them would be BLACK.No way a pull the pan and add fliud did a darn thing for them.It would still be blackl.Not with a flush!

 

They have the transmission flushed every 5000 Miles?? Man, that is alittle excessive. Most of the time, I've seen flushes recomended every 30,000 miles.

 

30k is normally whats called for.Real hard usage and HEAVY towing every 15k.Depends on fliud also.On dino fliud on my 93 w250 I did it evey 15k.On syn every 30k.On my OLD Caprice every 30k on dino and on syn every 60k.Filter every 90k etc.But I bet that the innards on that SUPERDUTY trans is CLEAN.A "TRANS"FUSION of fliud.

 

Anyone know of a relatively inexpensive tranny flush machine? I like the idea of doing it this way, but refuse to pay big $$ just for a tranny fluid change... would rather invest in the tool myself.

 

I'm also curious about cross-contamination with different fluids from a flush machine. Is there a purge procedure when going from, say, Dexron II to ATF +4? How much fluid from a previous procedure gets pumped in to the next tranny serviced?

My understanding of the different ATF formulations is that a major driver is specific formulations for corrosion resistance for specific materials used in the differing trans internals. If that's the case, relatively small amounts of the wrong ATF could be a problem - but I have no idea how much is trouble. Any trans experts care to enlighten me? The flush sounds like a good thing to me otherwise, but this question nags...

Jim