It all started towards the end of last week, I started to hear an ever so slight tick when coming to a stop. Well, yesterday I received my BDDL triple dog w/outlook, got it installed and went for a ride to see if I got my $500 worth. Well this morning the tick is noticeably worse when coming to a complete stop. Guess it's time for a new rear U joint @ 39K miles. Any suggestions on better aftermarket U-joints or should I just stick with the mopar junk and get another 40K miles till they need to be replaced again.?.?

 

i do believe they are 351s for the rear. Napa has them from what I understand.

 

Mine went out 2 weeks ago with about 39,500 miles. I looked at the one from NAPA but did not care for the plastic spacers/shimms they use to keep each of the 4 tips of the U-joint equally spaced from the caps. I went with a couple from AUTOZONE, greaseable and NO plastic. (might as well do both while your under there doin' the first 1)

MY $ .02

 

were they true NAPA u joints. The ones I have do nto have plastic spacers

 

NAPA Part #351 is the one I got...............

What Part # did you get????????????????

 

I just had the precision 295,s (greaseable)put on my 2004 dodge (48re auto) in the rear and precision 464,s(greaseable) put on the front.The front factory U-joints were bone dry with no grease in them.I have 35,950 miles on my truck.coobie

 

coobie-where did you get your u-joints?? is 295 and 464 the part numbers? i suspect my u-joints are on the way out. i am getting a small vibration through the pedal the last couple of days. i need to get under the truck!

 

I bought mine here locally at a advance auto parts store.coobie

 

thanks coobie

 

If you are gonna do it yourself get the stockers,the tranny shop i had it done at had to cut down the Precision one's down a bit(no extra charge),they were too long.They(Procision transmissions in Joshua,TX)also had a hell of a time gettin' the stockers out.If any of ya'll live near there,they are a good bunch of guys who took the time to make my truck run perfect.

 

The precisions 295,s front and 464,s rear lined up correctly without any mods or grinding.coobie

 

Napa 2-0054

 

351's=6 speed rear drive shaft.
295's=Auto rear drive shaft.
464's=9.25 AAM Left and Right axle joints (and if you dont know what an AAM 9.25 is then you probably need to do more reading and less talking).

 

I just replaced my rear driveshaft U-joints (front and rear), I used Precision U-joints and they were both part # 330 I'm fairly certain. They fit perfect, I have a 48RE Automatic, short bed and the 11.5 rear diff.

Update: Looks like 295 is a "Super strength" version. I would have used those if I'd known about them. The grease fitting is in the cup (needle fitting) so that's probably the reason they are a little stronger in theory.

 

From a 130k miles towing heavy, Napa Premium, and Precision are barely better than stock. Get Spicer Originals. I don't have the numbers in front of me but do a search and you will find them. They are greaseable. If you pull the cups out 1/8 of an inch on the Napa's or Precision they wobble. Do the same on the Spicers and they are smooth and tight. At a good drivetrain shop they should be no more than $35. I've had mine on for almost 9 months....lots of towing almost 30k miles including some rather harsh starts empty and tire locking emergency exhaust braking loaded to the jewels and they are smooth as silk....grease a little often, not a lot all the time. Where I am, stock were $118. A good suggestion is at 60k or 100k get all the rear shaft ujoints replaced with Spicers, Check the hanger bearing and get the shaft balanced. The hanger Bearing really needs some silicone or RTV sealant put in the empty spaces. Put a jack under the drive shaft jack up till no weight on the rubber donut and fill the spaces with sealant. Leave for overnight and drop the shaft and you are good to go. ks