Having trouble removing the rear main seal. See this thread. Need some advice asap https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...93#post3171893

 

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the battery negative cables.
2. Remove the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
3. Remove the clutch cover and disc (if manual transmission
equipped) (Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH
DISC - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the flywheel or converter drive plate.
5. Remove the flywheel adapter plate.
6. Drill holes 180° apart into the seal. Be careful not
to contact the drill against the crankshaft.
7. Install # 10 sheet metal screws (1) in the drilled
holes and remove the rear seal with a slide hammer
(4).

 

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to prevent
seal leaks. The crankshaft and seal surfaces must be completely dry when the seal is installed. Use a soap
and water solution on outside diameter of seal to ease assembly.
1. Clean the crankshaft journal with a suitable solvent and dry with a clean shop towel or compressed air. Wipe the
inside bore of the crankshaft seal retainer with a clean shop towel.
2. Inspect the crankshaft journal for gouges, nicks, or other imperfections. If the seal groove in the crankshaft is
excessively deep, install the new seal 1/8” deeper into the retainer bore, or obtain a crankshaft wear sleeve that
is available in the aftermarket.
3. Install the seal pilot and new seal, provided in the replacement kit, onto the crankshaft.
4. Remove the seal pilot.
5. Install the installation tool over crankshaft.
6. Using a ball peen hammer, strike the tool (2) at the
12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions until the alignment
tool bottoms out on the retainer.
NOTE: Always install a new clamping ring, never
reuse the old clamping ring.
7. Install the flywheel or converter drive plate, and
clamping ring. Tighten the bolts to 137 N·m (101 ft.
lbs.) torque.
8. Install the clutch cover and disc (if equipped)
(Refer to 6 - CLUTCH/CLUTCH DISC - INSTALLATION).
9. Install the transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Connect battery negative cables.
12. Check engine oil level and adjust, if necessary.
13. Start engine and check for oil leaks.

 

Don't forget about the pilot bearing/bushing, and the throwout bearing.

 

Does it matter which way the new pilot bearing goes in. Letters facing the crankshaft?

 

Are both ends tapered on the inside?

 

The side without letters is tapered.

 

Also should the flywheel bolts have thread locker put on them? There are no signs of any bring used on them before.

 

I always use a tab on each bolt when I reinstall the flywheel, and I prefer to use a torque wrench. I have seen some just slap it back together with an air impact...

 

Use the red if you decide. On the pilot bearing, letters toward the crank.

 

This should help a little. Hope I'm not too late.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ghlight=clutch

 

Yeah, you are too late. got the seal installed on Saturday and looks like it started leaking this morning. Oh well, will just have to arrange for time at my friends new 40x60 shop and park the truck there for a couple of weeks and do that again as well as a whole bunch of other things that need to be done.

At least I have access to a backup car for now.

 

I take it this clamping ring has something to do with the dual mass flywheel?

The 03 year doesn't have this clamping ring.