ok I am preparing to change my FRT & RR Gear oil and was wondering if anyone could tell me if I need an additive for the Rear?? I am using SAE 75 W-90 oil..... I have a 2005 .... with standard rear end....

Thanks for the help!!!

 

No additive is required on front or rear axle, limited slip or not.

 

Thanks for the help... could anyone tell me there opinion on the best process of removing the oil? I was thinking that sucking the oil out would be ok .. which saves breaking the seal !! would that be a wise choice??

Thanks

 

Pull the cover. Then you can wipe it clean and inspect the gears. It let's you get out the most powdered metal. The gasket is reusable.

John

 

Second taking off the cover. Loosen the bottom first to drain the oil. I use brake cleaner to clean the carrier and R&P. As stated the gasket is reusable. Easy job.

 

You probably already know this, but it calls for full synthetic that meets GL-5.

Also, be careful with the cover bolts. There have been several threads about them breaking. On my 2nd oil change I broke one, and it didn't even come close to making it to specified torque.

 

AAM rear ends, no additive, Dana rear ends get additive. Third the cover removal. The stock ATF +4 is semi-synthetic. Full synthetic is good stuff for the pumpkins.
Cheers
Mike
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Thanks for the info... I plan to use Mobil one 75w -90... does anyone know if this is good stuff to use?? it's only $9 Qt. Vs the stock oil from my dealer at $16 QT (after Discount, Reg $20 QT)...

Jerry

 

Mobile One 75W90 Should be good to go for your oil change. Just make sure it is the full synthetic not the blend. I have noticed on reading the label on all the different oil bottles that the full synthetics tend to meet the ASME, SAE, and OEM specifications compared to the Synthetic Blends. Also the full synthetic tend to have a additive already mixed in with the lube for the limited slip, so there is no need for an additional additivie. At least that is according to the oil bottle's labels.

Shawn

 

Shawn... thanks for the info !! anyway do you know the torq specs for the bolts on the cover? I read the post above about being careful and taking them off, but I want to make sure that I get the right torq without breaking them..
Jerry

 

If it is going to cost you $9.00 a qt for Mobil 1 then I would pay to be a member at Amsoil and get there 75/90 SVG for $8.80 and you will have much better gear oil in your diff's.

JMHO

 

As far as oil goes, as long as it's rated GL-5 and full synthetic it meets the requirement. You can also use 75W-140 if you live in a hot climate and tow.

Fill plug bolt spec is 24 ft lbs, cover bolts are 30 ft lbs.

Like I said there have been threads about breaking them but after I got through my first change (with torque wrench set at 30) and had no problems I figured I was OK. On the 2nd change, though, one snapped off, and it didn't even come close to reaching 30 ft lbs before it did. Yes, I cleaned all the gunk out of the threads...

Anyhow, I'd think about going a little less than the 30 the book specifies.

 

You could use ATF+4 in the transmission and transfer case, but I wouldn't recommend it in the differentials.

 

According to my service manual it says to torque the cover bolts to 30 LBFT. The gasket is a reusable gasket, so long as it is not deformed or torn. When torqueing the cover bolts, I would start by running the bolts down finger tight with the ratchet (Like the first lug nut when changing a tire). Then switch to the torque ratchet of your choice (Beam or Click) and torque in increments of 7.5 LBFT to 10 LBFT until I reach the 30 LBFT. I would go every other fourth bolt until all are torque to the spec before moving up in torque. I know this sounds like a lot, but a lot of people on these forums are complaining of breaking the bolts when they torque these bolts down. Hopefully, by following these simple steps it will prevent broken bolts.

Fluid Capacity is around 3.8L or 4 quarts for the rear and 2.2L or 3 quarts for the front. I would by around 8 quarts just to be safe and have extra for toping the fluid off after the intial oil break in/burn-off (500 miles or so). Both differentials (FT and RR) on the Dodge Rams 2500/3500 use the same fluid type and viscosity (75W-90 Full Synthetic).

The Full Synthetic Fluid by design should have the limited slip additive already included in the oil composition. Which in turn requires no additional additive. Please, do not take my word for it. Read your Amsoil, Valvoline, Royal Purple, and Texaco fluid specs for more information. Better yet, read the back of the bottle. Some people have still had complaint of gear noise or fuction even after a fuild change. Adding additial additives may or may not solve the complaint.

Sorry, SuperT, did not mean to hi-jack your thread. Hope the torque spec works out for ya!

Shawn

 

I use RP, 75W-140. Mobil is good also.