3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Rear axle seal questions

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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 05:20 PM
  #1  
jmlcolorado's Avatar
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From: Denver CO
Rear axle seal questions

So yesterday I'm busy replacing the rear main seal housing, rear main seal and clutch when I see a little puddle coming from the drivers side rear tire.
GREAT!
This morning when I came out to the parked truck, the rear axle has leaked quite a bit of fluid! Enough to travel down the driveway a few feet!

Couple questions:
1) I just got new tires and wheels of the truck last Friday (about 600 miles ago). There is nothing a tire shop could do to cause the rear axle seal to go out is there? I really don't think they could do anything, but figured I'd check.

2) anyone know what size the hub nut is on the rear? I need to rip into this and take care of it (hopefully this week some evening) but I want to make sure I have everything I need before getting into it. I hate (and she does to) jumping into the lady's car all dirty to grab parts.
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 05:59 PM
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MeanDoggy's Avatar
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From: Gulf Breeze, FL
Totallyrad posted very thorough and detailed thread about how to do the exact job you are needing to do. The nut you are asking about is 2 9/16", but it is my understanding that, if you are careful, you can use a punch to break the torque that is on it, then use your hands to remove it. I also understand that this nut is actually very similar to putting on a nut on a trailer axle wheel bearing. I did some research on the net about this particular nut installation, and I'll be installing it in a similar fashion to the trailer wheel axle bearing method, but with much more precaution and precision. I just see justifying the cost of this special socket for a job that one may only do once, maybe twice.

This is just my humble opinion, and I'm sure others will have a different one.
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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jmlcolorado's Avatar
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From: Denver CO
Originally Posted by MeanDoggy
Totallyrad posted very thorough and detailed thread about how to do the exact job you are needing to do. The nut you are asking about is 2 9/16", but it is my understanding that, if you are careful, you can use a punch to break the torque that is on it, then use your hands to remove it. I also understand that this nut is actually very similar to putting on a nut on a trailer axle wheel bearing. I did some research on the net about this particular nut installation, and I'll be installing it in a similar fashion to the trailer wheel axle bearing method, but with much more precaution and precision. I just see justifying the cost of this special socket for a job that one may only do once, maybe twice.

This is just my humble opinion, and I'm sure others will have a different one.
Thanks! I was reading through that wiki as you posted.
With as much stuff as I get into, I'll probably just buy the socket. And now that I think about it, I think I have one from doing front seals on my 2nd gen dully.
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