Hey thanks guys. That makes some sense Tesla. He's got some sort of K&N intake on it... there's a little filter with the MAP on the back to the side of the bhaf. It's not hooked directly to the air tube... could this be a problem??

He's gonna try and clean em up this afternoon after work...

Thanks again

 

If the Map gets oilly from the K&N it'll give bad signals. You need to clean it with Map sensor cleaner. Anything else will reck it. Any auto part store should have it.

As far as the location of the MAP sensor, most aftermarket kit put in right in the air flow just like stock. From what you discribed to me, it don't sound right. If you get a chance to look at a newer CTD at the dealer you can see how's it supose to mounted.

Just out of curriousity, what made you think of putting a restriction on the intact? I work on all of my own stuff & would have never though of doing that. Because of that, made me think that it's the MAP at the intake.

 

Yeah he took it off and cleaned it with some WD 40... no help. I've only cleaned a MAP with my air compressor, never chemical, so he might have fubard his MAP. I'm still here at work, so he's off on his own. I'm a 2nd gen man myself, but he's still wet behind the ears when it comes to diesels.

Yeah the MAP location seems funny to me also.. i though about mounting it on the intake tube itself and see what happens.

I thought about the "hand over intake" trick from a Izuzu mini cab-over i used to drive... it had a manual choke in the intake tube, it wouldn't crank in cold weather when the choke was open.. go to full choke and she cranked right up...

 

WD-40 isn't a cleaning solution, it's a lubricate (contains oil). The sensor may still be good. I would try cleaning the MAP with MAP sensor cleaner before buying a new MAP (it's cheaper).

Thanks for the "choke" procedure. I'll have to keep that in my bag of tricks.

 

Yeah i'm headin out of the office... I'll pick some up at the Mom n Pop on the way home.

Thanks for the info, and glad i could add to your "bag o tricks"!

Later

 

i too have the long crank issue on friends truck 04.5 auto replaced fca,crank sensor, rail sensor, cleaned map, and int. temp sensor, fuel filter, every darn thing i can think of it now runs better but long cranks still, i posted this on the wrong part i guess, the perf. 3rd gen, should have hear, had no idea others were havin the same problems ,seems like we all could put our heads together a fiqure it out hell i got a person willing to pay for all the parts, ha ha . but really the only other thing i thought of replacing was the relief valve heck i even had i off again earier to look at it and try to clean it again - nothin, i will now go out and take the banjo off the top a crank it see what happens this was the first ive heard of this if it leaks its bad right?? ill try and let you know any one else any ideas? thanks ryan..

 

oh by the way while at cummins earlier they said the relief valve was 452.00 i wonder what the dealers ask for this one does any one know, im gona go try yalls trick now

 

well i guess its bad, took it off cranked it fuel going everywhere, pinched off the banjo with thumb and pointer finger and this stoped 80% of it this same line carries the cp3 return back as well. is was def. coming out of the r. valve i tryed to put my finger over it as it shot out everywhere like you did that to a water hose, shot over the fender on the other side , does this def. mean its bad, any one else replaced one where did you get yours, did it cost oyu 452.00 or more. expensive but if i can change this one simple part and it starts properly hell be tickled, any thoughts , thanks ryan

 

A temp solution is to block off the relief valve with a bolt. But I would remove any pressure boxes before doing so.

MikeyB

 

bit the bullit, sayed what the ... and did what i read someone else did, and [perm.] blocked the valve and reinstalled it as factory, kind of the same old crap, maybe cranks a little quicker but not 100% in my book. he brought it to me full off fuel look at the guage minute ago and it was less than half, scared me to death , wered 15+ gallons of diesel go, i easssily checked the dipstick nope all good think the lord, still were i left it when i changed the oil earlier, but whered it go i opened the fuel cap and it farted real loud, looked at the guage it was on full again! bad cap i guess, i thought maybe this part of the long crank issue left the cap off and tried it a few times , neeegh wishful thinking but no cigar. im done i think its ok like it is , il sugg. buy a fuel cap and try it out a while, any other thouhjts???

 

Choking the air intake means you're not getting enuff fuel at crank - CP3 is either leaking internally: pull the COV and the FCA solenoid for an inspection, as in this thread:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=171676

The internal pump seals are not so easy - or the injectors not delivering.

Alternately, and much easier - colder ambient temps will make it harder to start, where the electrical system must be in top shape, and the starter motor must spin the engine to sufficient cranking speed for light-off.

 

i agree this truck def. starts better with a battery charger hooked up soon as it reaches 200 rpm its fires wondering if so many others worked on it before me that the starter is weak, batteries somthing?

 

Could be the air heater wiring, relays, heater

Could be the battery cables\posts are corroded\oxidized, need cleaning

Could be batteries - both batteries must be of the same vintage and size - cannot mix ages, brands - weakest will pull down the other and the alternator

Could be the starter motor brushes and\or electrical contacts in the solenoid, causes slow rpm

Each of the above and all the above causes slow cranking speed, hard\long start

Fall is best time to winter-ize the electrical and fuel system, every year

 

any one else capped or disabled the relief ? i understand it was put there for a reason but shouldnt this part never even open unless somehow psi reached 30000 psi. and our systems stock operate a what 22-25 whats the long term poss. of having it blocked, this just assuses now not leaking by and never will unless replaced this was explained to by friend ive heard of people doing this and comp. even selling a solid one i think but any one proved it for a long time now, for people that have a rail guage whats the highest pressures you have ever ssen or heard of, and what does the ez take this number to,?

 

hello, anyone with guages [rail pressure] would comment.