Power steering fluid is often considered one of the most neglected fluids on a vehicle. Most service schedules don't cover it, and most people only think about it when something fails. But power steering fluid gets quite hot and worked, so it should be changed on a scheduled interval. Also the power steering fluid is what gives us power brakes, so its a good idea to properly maintain it.

My truck just hit 60 months of service, and is at 49K miles. I was going to be under-hood for a coolant flush so decided to do my power steering fluid.

I started off with the service manual instructions.

This was a very straight foreword flush. To make it go easier the first thing I did was disconnect the cooler under the radiator and get all the fluid to drain from the system.



Then I pulled the driver side fender-well and removed the hose from the bottom of the reservoir. Pre-draining the return system made this a easy, mess-free process. Then to plug the return port on the reservoir I screwed a 1/4 NPT plug into it. It got about 2 easy turns and I stopped. There will only be static pressure, and it should hold just fine. To get the return line to dump into a bucket I pushed a piece of 1/4" fuel hose into the return line and used the OE clamp to clamp it there. Then the hose was easily bent and put into a bucket.





Then I filled the reservoir with clean ATF. (I chose Amsoil ATF, IMHO the best ATF one can buy). Then my wife helped me out a little. She turned the key on (engine off) and turned the wheel until i had fluid coming from the return line, so now I had full fluid agian. I once again ensured the reservoir was full (about .8QT if its completely empty). Now we started the truck per the instructions and turned the wheel. I held an empty qt bottle under the hose so I would know when to shut the truck off before it ran dry, worked great.

We did this one more time, even thou it only calls for it once.

Now I buttoned everything backup and followed the Initial start up procedures, omitting step 6.

The only thing I think the procedure is missing is to pump the brakes while turning the wheels. I didn't do this and got groaning the first two times I pumped the brakes. I went for a test drive and had to add a bit more fluid again. I haven't driven enough to see if there is a difference, but I would hope there isn't, indicating I did the service early enough.

All in all I think I used about 3 qts of fluid, thou I would have a gallon handy.

I will do this service every 50K miles.

 

I just use a Turkey Baster to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and then refill it with new fluid. I will drive it a day and then do the procedure one more time.

 

I thought about that method as its less work, but doesn't ever really get a full fluid change as your mixing fluid everyday.

 

I do the PS using the turkey baster method every year, so far no turkey.

 

Thanks for taking the time to provide this detailed procedure! The power steering fluid is often overlooked by many until condensation or wear particles compromise the system.
I performed this service as per your direction (found on the other forum) last night. As an added precaution, I installed a Magnefine filter as well. Thanks again!

 

Nice write (as usual) AH64, Your Cummins must love you with the TLC you give her..

I just did my 05 yesterday at 46K. I elevated the front dropped the hoses and drained it. Then (engine off) I turned the wheel lock to lock several times while pumping the brake pedal. this expelled another 1/2 qt or so of fluid. I added a bottle of BG power steering fluid conditioner to the system and topped it off with Valvoline ATF+4. The fluids look/smell clean. I think the inline filter is a good idea as well.

I also changed the fluids in the transmission, transfer case and pressure bleed the brake system. (The brakes are another overlooked / under-serviced item as well). What you see in the reservoir is not what resides in the caliper assembly..

 

I agree on the brakes and flush all of my rigs every few years.

 

Cool! I include the flush on all vehicles that come in for a complete Amsoil change out. Long live the overtaxed P/S system!

Why did you use ATF when there is a purpose made synthetic P/S fluid available now?

I know ATF it what is manufacturer specified, but the P/S guys, AGR, PSC, etc, hate ATF running in their systems.

 

Couple reasons, its whats the pump was designed for (just like the transfer cases uses ATF, even thou its not an automatic trans), and cost. P/S fluid is over 20% more money.

 

I wish I read this article this morning before I did mine, it seems more complete. Although completely drained, Filled, ran, emptied with turkey baster like tool, filled, ran, emptied, filled, ran. I hope it worked.

Thanks,
Joe

 

Good write up.

 

My bad......Amsoil even recommends ATF over P/S fuid in the Dodges.

Mine is ready for another flush, so I guess this time I will use the ATF as well.

 

I just replaced my pump and the Napa Auto Store showed me a TSB from Dodge. To prime system vacume at 24 in for 3 minites at res. fill cap... then top off. I did this and it worked good. Just an FYI. I'm used to doing it old school,

 

I've got a 2nd-gen, but I think this thread is ground zero for this flushing issue, so I'm posting here. It also looks like the place to complain that someone once told me to use ATF in my PS, which was not good advice for my 1997. Hindsight.

I wouldn't dare trust my wife as a helper for the flushing process, because not only does she not drive, but it sounds to me like if she didn't respond quickly when needed to shut off the engine, I could have lot of wasted fluid, or a pump running dry, or a visit from the EPA or all of the above. Even if I did have an imminently-qualified helper, I hate the idea of trying to keep the reservoir full, while it's working against me by pumping fluid out of one or two return-hoses at the same time! I mean, even with a bright flashlight, I find it all but impossible to fill the reservoir without spilling some over the top, because the danged funnel has to cover most of the filler-neck opening - and that's not even with the engine running or the pump trying to empty itself. I'm even thinking I might just go to a 'fast lube' place so I don't have to be involved in this one...

But first: is there a way of reasonably-thoroughly draining both hydroboost and steering-box manually, eg by going lock-to-lock without the engine on, by pumping the brakes to clear out the hydroboost unit, or something along those lines?