my post was from 2011.

i sold the truck a while back, but got to drive it out to supper tonight.

it seems to still be doing fine. IDK / YMMV

 

I pulled mine apart this evening, and couldn't get a dremel bit in the little area to grind any plastic off, its too cramped an area... so I drilled a 1/64 hole through the outer cap directly above the check valve..
my thinking is that the hole is small enough, that in combination with the valve,should keep moisture and gunk out, but it should let the pressure escape as well as the cap would have if it worked as designed..
guess we'll see..

 

LOL, you guys drilling a hole in the cap should read this thread more closely!

 

Am I missing something maybe??
Not sure what your chuckling about?
I fail to see the diff between drilling a small hole in the outer cap vs enlarging the manufactured vent channel..both are still utilizing the one-way valve to keep things out, and allowing for pressure vented through the valve to escape the system...
What are you saying I am not seeing?

and please, Im not being argumentative, but am just asking to learn something here..

 

I don't mean to chuckle, just trying to be light-hearted in pointing out that there is no need to drill a hole thru the p/s cap.

Just like Dr. Dizzle mentioned in his post, read the entire thread closely, take the p/s cap apart and modify it until it vents properly.

 

I see.. I think what you missed is that, at least in my case, I didnt drill all the way thru the cap, just thru the OUTER cap, or black piece,
My dremel bit was too large to fit in the little area above the vent without buggering the whole cap up

 

Did drilling through just the cap allow the reservoir to vent? To me it does not seem to fix the problem, which is the one way check valve being set with too much tension by the raised ridge on the inside of the outer cap. The vent channel is not the problem. To me it seems that unless you drill through the outer cap and the check valve, the reservoir will still not be vented.

When I pulled my cap apart, I used a drill bit and a screwdriver to remove most of the ridge on the inside of the outer cap (I do not have a dremel). Only after a few test fits did I get the proper tension set, confirmed by putting the gray stem dip stick in my mouth and being able to blow past the check valve. It took me about twenty minutes, and that included washing the outer cap, check valve, and grey stem just like BlackPuff_Gone mentioned in his post on the first page.

 

Camp, it seems to have so far but I've only put about 300 miles on it since drilling the cap
It hasnt blown off and us still dry but I'd wanna put some more time on it to sY its fixed for certain

 

The problem is that the check valve is pinched in between the two pieces. The object of this exercise is to move enough material from the center portion of the inside of the cap to allow some free movement of the valve. All it takes is patience and a small grinding bit for your Dremel.

When my first cap blew off, i got an OEM replacement and it was bad out of the box.

 

The current OEM replacements are no better and must be modified as well.

Thanks for taking the time to provide the cap vent repair procedure. This was very helpful.

 

I altered the cap on my PS pump almost 5 years ago and have had 0 problems since. It wasn't blowing the cap off (yet) but was forcing fluid past the seals and leaking on the floor. I used a Dremel inside the cap as shown to allow the check valve to work properly.

PS: I took the truck to the dealer first and the tech just changed out a PS hose. Then I isolated the real problem myself.

 

When my cap blew off I didn't realize the problem. I chocked it up to my neglecting to tighten it. Then a few months later I had tires put on it and the tire shop tried to convince me I needed a steering cylinder. The mechanic cut a small hole in the boot before I could stop him to show me the fluid that ran out. needless to say I was ******. Then I found a mention of the over pressure situation on this forum and flung a fixin on it.

The bad part is that it can also screw up the brake booster which is very painful to the pocket book.

 

I found this thread while thinking I needed to replace my ps pump.
I have ps fluid leaking down the frame rail in the front wheel well
I have always noticed pressure when checking hot ps levels

This is the key, read it carefully, and then read it again.

I did use a soldering iron then scrapped the extra plastic away with a utility knife. Just need to create some space for the rubber valve to move freely. Took me more time to get the tools out than anything else.

Note. The vent hole comes up through the center of the dip stick piece under the rubber valve

I will clean the frame and monitor.

 

Thanks to the helpful info in this thread, and particularly post #6 by @BlackPuff_Gone , I fixed the cap on our 2005 Dodge Ram Cummins 2500 with 167k miles. I did it in about 20min over my lunch at work. The top of my power steering fluid reservoir had signs of fluid before, but after a ~45mile drive once I completed the fix there is no sign of fluid there anymore. Now I can keep working on isolating and fixing any remaining leak sources! Detail of the cap disassembly and fix is here .