3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 06:02 AM
  #1  
CoeGuthrie's Avatar
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Please help!

Long time reader, but don't post much. Thanks for a wealth of information and a great forum. My preferred Cummins forum!

Hey Guys-I desperately need some help from you Cummins folk. Long read, but please bear with me. My truck in picture

07 5.9. Bone stock when I bought it. Immediately put tunes from ATP, a CTS for gauges, a Cool Tube, and a 2 micron fuel filter/water separator from dieselfuelfilterkits. com.

Bought the truck with 163k on the clock last summer-no noticeable blow-by. Now has 183k on the clock.

I took it to a supposedly reputable shop back in November because the truck had a slight miss at idle on occasion. I thought I'd get the injectors tested since the truck was new to me and it had the slight miss. The fuel mileage wasn't very good either. ~14 mpg at best. No smoke or hard starts though and no noticeable blow-by. Didn't make oil. They said they tested the injectors and 1 was bad, so I had them replace all 6. (Bosch remans)

I'm now on my third set of injectors since then.

- The first set they put in started making terrible noise (really bad knocking-like injector knock on steroids or rod knock.) When they pulled them, they said one had a bad nozzle and they also said all 6 injectors that they put in were bad. (bosch remans with 60 hp nozzles) With these injectors, I also started getting oil around the oilcap o-ring - This was new. They did a leak down though, and said everything was within spec. No smoke or hard starts. No noticeable blow-by. Doesn't make oil.

- Second set they said were bad when I took the truck back in for still-bad fuel mileage and same occasional miss. (No smoke or hard starts, nor does it make oil.) They replaced all six. They also said the poor fuel mileage was because of a dirty air filter. (It was dirty when they showed it to me. I hadn't checked it in 3 months, as I put a new one in after I got the truck-it only had about 10k miles on it- and this truck is mostly used as a highway queen, so I didn't think it would have been that dirty, that fast. My bad I guess.) They also said there was a lot of sediment in factory fuel bowl, and the fuel filter in the factory location was dirty. ( It was a Baldwin pf7977- 5 micron. I had changed that after I put the 2 micron kit in). They also told me that I had accidentally cross threaded the 2 micron filter and that it might have been sucking dirt and air, so they took out my fuel filter/air-water separator kit and ran fuel straight to the factory filter location (as it would have been from the factory). I hoped this would take care of my problem. Also, no oil around oil cap with this set. I also pulled the fuel tank at this time to make sure it didn't have a ton of junk in it. It didn't.

- Third (current) set. Drove the truck. Immediately noticed the miss was still there. Changed FCA with new one from Cummins. Still occasional miss. Drove it anyway. This time, on occasion, it will lope like it has a serious cam or lope tune in it. (It doesn't! Would a bad batch of fuel do this?) Also, oil around cap again (no noticeable blow-by though.) Doesn't make oil. Fuel mileage was better at first, but got increasingly worse. I drove it from Colorado to Missouri and back, so all flat highway miles to check fuel mileage. Also watched rail pressure this time. 5.5-6k at idle and perfectly acceptable numbers at WOT also (don't remember what they were at the moment).

I'm VERY frustrated, and the shop is saying that it never misses or lopes when they have it. I'm going up there this afternoon (120+ mile round trip) to see if it will do it while I'm there. I am beginning to feel like they are just tired of replacing injectors, and don't want to mess with it anymore but that is what the problem is.

So, to state/re-state my questions:
-would bad injectors cause a miss?
-would bad fuel cause a miss and/or lope?
-are bosch remans any good?
- what injectors should I have them put in if they will put in the ones I request? (Was thinking Smartys or Bosch Marine)
-anything else that could cause this?
-would bad injectors cause more blowby or crank pressure that would make oil blow past the oil cap?
-any good shops in Colorado I can take it to besides ATS or MaxTorq if I can't figure this out with the current shop?


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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 08:09 AM
  #2  
Lary Ellis (Top)'s Avatar
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I would not put the remans in my truck...too many stories like yours.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Lary Ellis (Top)
I would not put the remans in my truck...too many stories like yours.
Would you go with Bosch, Bosch Marine injectors, or maybe the Smarty injectors?
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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From: ruidoso new mexico
never get reman, use only new Bosch with stock nozzles, remove the ats tune and get a smarty jr, the smarty removes the third injection event and makes it easy for the smarty to add fuel in the performance setting with the smaller nozzle holes, at first we had to use the 50 hp nozzles for mpg on 04.5 up trucks to get more fuel in earlier, the bad fuel will not cause your problem. you have very good fuel filtration so a sticky injector was not a problem, the injectors in your truck had a bad design flaw in the solenoid on the injector, on your 07 there is two plugs with six pins each, driver side by the rail, first plug has injectors 1-2-3 next plug has 4-5-6 , unplug them and check resistance of each injector, they should read about 0.5 ohms if one reads over one ohms it is bad, i have seen them from 5 ohms to infinity, once you have the ats tune out and new injectors in if the problem is still there it is time to look at other things, i have not messed with a cts yet but i think it can display rail pressure, if it can, watch the pressure and when it is missing the pressure will tell you whether it is electrical or cp3, i have only seen two problems with the cp3 if the fca get's sticky rail pressure will be all over the place, you take it out and clean it with brake parts cleaner and shake it between your fingers, it should rattle
there is a cascade overflow valve that can cause problems, i have not had any luck with fixing them and just change them out. best place to get parts is genosgarage.com
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by carl48
never get reman, use only new Bosch with stock nozzles, remove the ats tune and get a smarty jr, the smarty removes the third injection event and makes it easy for the smarty to add fuel in the performance setting with the smaller nozzle holes, at first we had to use the 50 hp nozzles for mpg on 04.5 up trucks to get more fuel in earlier, the bad fuel will not cause your problem. you have very good fuel filtration so a sticky injector was not a problem, the injectors in your truck had a bad design flaw in the solenoid on the injector, on your 07 there is two plugs with six pins each, driver side by the rail, first plug has injectors 1-2-3 next plug has 4-5-6 , unplug them and check resistance of each injector, they should read about 0.5 ohms if one reads over one ohms it is bad, i have seen them from 5 ohms to infinity, once you have the ats tune out and new injectors in if the problem is still there it is time to look at other things, i have not messed with a cts yet but i think it can display rail pressure, if it can, watch the pressure and when it is missing the pressure will tell you whether it is electrical or cp3, i have only seen two problems with the cp3 if the fca get's sticky rail pressure will be all over the place, you take it out and clean it with brake parts cleaner and shake it between your fingers, it should rattle
there is a cascade overflow valve that can cause problems, i have not had any luck with fixing them and just change them out. best place to get parts is genosgarage.com

Thanks for the info.

Fyi- my tunes are done by Idaho Rob's shop ATP. I don't do business with ATS

I got EFI live because I understood that it was supposed to give me better fuel efficiency and power than even a smarty. I was wanting a 600hp daily, but at this point,I really just want reliability and good fuel mileage. I guess you don't feel that efi can deliver that?

Either way, with new injectors in (you only recommend new factory replacements right? ), I can put the stock tune back in and see if that is the issue.

Thanks for your input. Please keep it coming. I would be interested in your input to my response also!
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 05:52 PM
  #6  
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Ttt..
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 07:29 PM
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From: Tomball, Texas
You're golden with EFI so no need to change.

But as the others mentioned, the reman Bosch injectors is really a hit or miss crap shoot so go new. And also should install new crossover tubes as well.
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 08:19 AM
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From: ruidoso new mexico
i typed ats when i meant atp, i did not know that atp tune was a efi live tune mickeyb is on the money, atp may have taken the 60 hp injectors into account when they built the tune, when you change back to stock injectors check back with them. the common rail injectors work way different than any other injector used in the past, the cp3 supplies full time pressure to the injectors and the injector act's like a faucet, the longer you leave it on the more fuel enters the burn, we run a fleet of these trucks and have our own shop, we bought our fuel a tanker load at a time, they would deliver it directly from the refinery 8,600 gallons per load, when fuel got $4.50 per gallon that hurt, we tow extremely heavy and must have reliability and long life, our 05.5 to 07.5 trucks are setup at 425 hp and 1,000 ftlbs torque we did not want that much but before efi and before smarty figured out the third pulse each thing we did to improve mpg also gave more power. fill out your sig so we know how your truck is made up and say how you use it. i despise auto's so no help there but if you have a g56 and you keep it at 600 hp do not get on it very hard in 6th gear,

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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:18 AM
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From: Bluefield WV
Originally Posted by carl48
i despise auto's so no help there but if you have a g56 and you keep it at 600 hp do not get on it very hard in 6th gear,



How much wight caused this damage
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 03:23 PM
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From: ruidoso new mexico
it is not the weight, we gross out at up to 45,000 lbs and we have some 10% grades, this is the third 6th gear i broke, all in different 06 trucks, one was in Pennsylvanian on the interstate, about 4 years ago i was at 39,600 lbs going 65mph, they cut a ditch across the highway and had paved it back but the heavy rains let it sink down about two inches it was just as i started up a grade, at that rpm i was sitting on max torque when the rear wheels hit the gear broke, finished the 3,000 mile trip in 5th, next i had delivered a jd 710 hoe at 45,000 gross weight (14,000) truck and trailer 31,000 hoe and had started back empty and on level ground been in 6th for about 5 minutes when a tooth broke and the tooth busted other teeth leaving me with only direct, the truck has free spin hubs so i had two gears, the third one broke pulling a long grade at maximum torque all trucks had over 200,000 miles on them, i now limit 6th to about 60% throttle
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