My pinion on the front has been dripping oil for some time so the weather was good today and I wanted to see if I could get it done. I could not get the pinion flange off the get to the seal, come to find out the use a hard sealent on the pinion to the flange and you need this tool now.... http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/De...x?id=724&gid=9
Anyone know of a place that I could find one cheeper? I was not able to find any others that carry them but I'm sure it must be listed under a different number. Thats a Dodge number. I Took a piece of 1/4 steel and welded a nut and drilled the holes but it folded up and did not work. Must be hardened tool steel and thicker. If I cant find one I will make it out of 1/2" and try a second time but would just like to get it if I can fine it cheeper.
Thanks

 

I did mine a few months back. I used the "two hammer method". Place one hammer on the flange, and strike that hammer with another one, rotating the flange every other hit or so. Make sure to use the sealant on the splines as well when putting it back together. Also make sure to torque the nut properly.

 

Is there a reason you can't use a gear puller like on the D80's(this is what I used and had no issues) Any way that tool look pretty easy to make.

 

There is no real way to torque the nut with out pulling the axle and ring gear out and putting a in/lb gauge on it and a new spacer is there, I have always counted the turns off and put it back on the same way.
If you add more torque you can change the preload correct?
What torque did you use and how did you do yours.
I have do it count off, count on, and make sure it is tight, and it has worked on many rigs in the past but this flange is a different type.....
If I remember it takes 250 ft lbs to start and 350 ft lb to get the crush sleeve to that point you use the in-lb gauge. If it ever gets over torqued then the spacer is to small and it will wear the bearing fast .

 

On the back side they made these nice cut outs and the puller I tried would pop off. I tried a dead blow hammer, with no luck and dont want to beat on it to hard, remember there are bearings and gears on the other end... Tried to make the tool but the steel would just bend up. Going to look for some different pullers on Sat. if I don't find one on line.
Also found a rear hub seal bad and got another oil leak to, way to much going on for just 77k...

 

Maybe a steering wheel/flywheel puller, you would only be able to grab 2 of the bolt holes on the flange though more then likely.

 

I measured the rotating torque with the front gears/axles/wheels and everything but the prop shaft installed. Then matched it as close as I could when putting it back together. Really though...the hammer trick will work. But it looks like a vibration dampner puller would work too.

 

I may end up using the hammer deal I was just worried about beating on the bearings.

 

I've put about another 20k on mine since doing it, and they have been fine so far. Really, if you think about it, the surface area of the bearing mates up to the race nice and tight and there is a lot of surface area there. I've dine it a blue million times on other pinion flanges and never have had a problem. I understand your concern though.

 

Cool I will go with it... In the past a few hits with a dead blow and off it was, but one this it would not move and I made a tool and it folded like plastic... Mine must be welded.... Time for the BFH..... Thanks

 

I am getting ready to do mine as well. What sealant exactly is used on the splines? Need to get me some but need to know what to use. Also how many in-lbs did you find for rotating torque with the wheels and everything on? I have a 100in-lb 1/4" wrench but not sure if it needs to be higher. I was going to measure the depth of the threads to the nut before loosening, check rotating torque, mark the nut, count how may turns off it takes to get it off and the reinstall the same. I have a decent selection of pullers to choose from so I think I should be able to find one that will work...if not the hammer method will work as well.

 

I was always taught to use blue or black RTV on yoke splines.....worked for me many many times.
but I looked it up and the book says to....."Apply a light coat of teflon sealant to the pinion flange splines"

 

They used a white hard rtv or something like that.... But it don't want to come off I will see what sunday brings they say no rain then...

 

just in case you missed it I did add some text to my last post about what to put on the splines^^good luck with it. :-)

 

As mentioned in an above post, I would try a simple steering wheel puller. Some cheaper ones are usually available at jobber stores.

Before removing the nut, I always mark the nut and the shaft with a chisel, then reinstall the nut until the marks line up to ensure the proper tightness.

The sealant I put on the splines is Permatex white pipe sealant, which is very similar to what the manufacturer applies. As mentioned above, RTV sealant would work as well.