P2122 code
IIRC from my 12V that had a PCM poop on it
the *********** still needs to do it, and reflash the darned thing... Accordin to my mechanic the ECM is most likely not the culprit, becasue everything else functions just fine, and his computer some highdollar thingamajig tosses only the 2122 and 2121 codes at thing thing, after replacin the APPS, i havent had a chance to go back, he is out for thanksgivin, and i most certainly dont wanna bother him during this time..
anyways i forgot to mention, truck does this only on low throttle (100 percent of my driving) and it clears itself too.
Have also read that an idle validation switch and a pedal validation switch could be the problem. no clue on those part numbers, But i can also see that if indeed i got a bad APPS it would cause both of those to run out of whack..
my fear is that its the ECM.. lord i hope not, but if my mechanic cant fix it this time around, im goin on a road trip to find a starscan...
this inquiry mind wants to know...would a fan clutch or a low intake grid heater cause the CEL to come on and cause all of my ruckus?? I doubt it sincerely
the *********** still needs to do it, and reflash the darned thing... Accordin to my mechanic the ECM is most likely not the culprit, becasue everything else functions just fine, and his computer some highdollar thingamajig tosses only the 2122 and 2121 codes at thing thing, after replacin the APPS, i havent had a chance to go back, he is out for thanksgivin, and i most certainly dont wanna bother him during this time..
anyways i forgot to mention, truck does this only on low throttle (100 percent of my driving) and it clears itself too.
Have also read that an idle validation switch and a pedal validation switch could be the problem. no clue on those part numbers, But i can also see that if indeed i got a bad APPS it would cause both of those to run out of whack..
my fear is that its the ECM.. lord i hope not, but if my mechanic cant fix it this time around, im goin on a road trip to find a starscan...
this inquiry mind wants to know...would a fan clutch or a low intake grid heater cause the CEL to come on and cause all of my ruckus?? I doubt it sincerely
this inquiry mind wants to know...would a fan clutch or a low intake grid heater cause the CEL to come on and cause all of my ruckus??
what would make sence to me..
if the clutch and apps are connected in any way shape or form it would be throttle related. IE more throttle,more engine work, thus more heat, the Fan clutch being electric would need to start the fans.. less throttle, either ways the clutch would have to cool the motor to keep it at a certain temperature..., and if the clutch is bad.. perhaps screw with the apps??? in the way that it would toss the truck into a limp mode for a bit while the engine cools?
i have no clue.. but thats the only sence i can make of the two if they are indeed connected...
if the clutch and apps are connected in any way shape or form it would be throttle related. IE more throttle,more engine work, thus more heat, the Fan clutch being electric would need to start the fans.. less throttle, either ways the clutch would have to cool the motor to keep it at a certain temperature..., and if the clutch is bad.. perhaps screw with the apps??? in the way that it would toss the truck into a limp mode for a bit while the engine cools?
i have no clue.. but thats the only sence i can make of the two if they are indeed connected...
About al I can tell you from experience is that each is about a $500 fix, including labor. If you're good at wrenching there's a new fan clutch on ebay for $129 (item #290373961019). Sorry, no info on the APPS.
I'd have to look back on my invoices, but yes, with labor the fan clutch repair was in the $500 area. Replacing that took care of my fan clutch codes, but I still had the occasional dead pedal. That always happened when I came out of cruise control; hitting the cancel button, stepping on the brake pedal, or just shutting it off. Replacing the APPS corrected that problem and then no more of those codes, either. That, also, cost in the area of $500 to repair, including labor. Someone else said it correctly, "Diesels are expensive to buy and to repair." They can also be a real bear to diagnose, as I'm finding out with another issue. Still, I wouldn't want to tow our heavy 5er with anything else.
We had the same codes on our work truck and the dealer said replace the TPS sensor so we decided to replace the batterries instead and worked excellent for a while then they replaced tps and problem is gone.
batteries are brand new..
got them as a gift when i got the truck, napa top of the line batteries... findin another TPS is a HUGE problem tho.. i cannot find one for the life of me... and im not gonna tear up my 2500 just to fix my 3500..
i need help findin a tps.. they are on national back order far as i have heard from all the sources ive called...
thanks for the help friend...
PS hows ur season goin?
Rick
got them as a gift when i got the truck, napa top of the line batteries... findin another TPS is a HUGE problem tho.. i cannot find one for the life of me... and im not gonna tear up my 2500 just to fix my 3500..
i need help findin a tps.. they are on national back order far as i have heard from all the sources ive called...
thanks for the help friend...
PS hows ur season goin?
Rick
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