one piece aluminum driveshaft
Chevy has been doing aluminum rear driveshafts for a long time. They are lighter, which means easier to balance, and generally just as strong as a steel shaft.
Well there are a lot of trucks out there running them and quite a few with a decent amount of power going through them. Care to share some instances where they have failed? In searching ALOT of forums I have not once found a report of failure on the aluminum driveshafts. Not saying it can't happen, and maybe it has. Just doesnt seem to be a common occurance. I have however found numerous instances of premature u-joint replacement, failed carrier bearings, bent or broken carrier brackets, and twisted/broken steel shafts. I understand the general understanding that steel is stronger than aluminum but seeing that the one-piece is almost 2.5 times the size of the steel shaft and the wall thickness is greater one can only assume it was designed to be of similiar strength to the steel shaft. Not to mention 2 less moving parts to fail. I highly doubt dodge would switch to a weaker shaft on a newer truck that has higher hp/tq ratings than previous years just because it seems like the cool thing to do. Gm has been using them for years and with all the juiced up Duramax guys out there you don't hear about a plague of twisted driveshafts. Without comparing side by side or checking specs at quick glance I think the dodge shaft seems bigger than the one GM uses. Maybe I am completely wrong and they DO fail easily but I would like to see some evidence to prove it or some hard data as to why they WILL fail.
Can you post the part # please.
Dodge part # for auto tranny is 52123220-AB
I ordered mine from dodgeparts.com and it just arrived today - less than a week since I ordered it. $430.00 for the shaft, $496.80 shipped from Washington state to south central PA. This thing is freakin huge. I hope to get it on this weekend, I'll try to post some pics before, during, and after.
I ordered mine from dodgeparts.com and it just arrived today - less than a week since I ordered it. $430.00 for the shaft, $496.80 shipped from Washington state to south central PA. This thing is freakin huge. I hope to get it on this weekend, I'll try to post some pics before, during, and after.
Dodge part # for auto tranny is 52123220-AB
I ordered mine from dodgeparts.com and it just arrived today - less than a week since I ordered it. $430.00 for the shaft, $496.80 shipped from Washington state to south central PA. This thing is freakin huge. I hope to get it on this weekend, I'll try to post some pics before, during, and after.
I ordered mine from dodgeparts.com and it just arrived today - less than a week since I ordered it. $430.00 for the shaft, $496.80 shipped from Washington state to south central PA. This thing is freakin huge. I hope to get it on this weekend, I'll try to post some pics before, during, and after.
Some aluminum has much higher yield strength...more then double...than of mild steel. Just because its aluminum doesn't mean its weaker. Most times, if designed correctly, it can be stronger.
Also a thicker wall doesn't mean its stronger when compared to a larger diameter with a smaller thickness. Diameter plays more of a role in section modules then the thickness.
I did a 1 piece steel shaft years ago and over 75k miles later pulling past my 26k gross from Florida to NJ with NO ISSUES!!!
If the aluminum was available I would have gone with that just to save some weight. I used a local driveshaft shop to custom make my steel 1 piece shaft.
I had many issues trying to get the double shaft shimmed right and then just gave it. Once I installed the 1 piece all problems went away.
I used Edge Juice up to a few weeks ago when I had problems with the juice box, gave up on that, and purchased the Smarty downloader. Again...playing with those power numbers no problems.
Also a thicker wall doesn't mean its stronger when compared to a larger diameter with a smaller thickness. Diameter plays more of a role in section modules then the thickness.
I did a 1 piece steel shaft years ago and over 75k miles later pulling past my 26k gross from Florida to NJ with NO ISSUES!!!
If the aluminum was available I would have gone with that just to save some weight. I used a local driveshaft shop to custom make my steel 1 piece shaft.
I had many issues trying to get the double shaft shimmed right and then just gave it. Once I installed the 1 piece all problems went away.
I used Edge Juice up to a few weeks ago when I had problems with the juice box, gave up on that, and purchased the Smarty downloader. Again...playing with those power numbers no problems.
Yes that's the part # I used. It's the number for an 08 QC/LB or Mega with the 68RFE but it fits the 48RE.
I just put it on this morning and in just a few mile short drive I have no more vibration at any speed, no launch shudder, and smoother shifting. I was getting a pretty good 'clunk' from drive to reverse or vice-versa and hard shifting that I didn't really think was that abnormal until now that its gone. One or more u-joints must have been pretty bad but I didn't really inspect the old ones that close. The shaft slides into the transfer case every bit of 4-5 inches even though it is about an inch less than the stock shaft. This is needed though to allow the shaft to slide in as the rear suspension is compressed and driveline angle changes. I can't possibly see how the shaft is not in the case enough to cause a concern. There would have to definately be a weaker link somewhere besides that. It is a bit pricey but if your like me and need u-joints anyway the extra cost may be worth the upgrade rather than sinking money into the two-piece set-up only to have the same problems shortly down the road. I will let everyone know after I get some more miles on it but so far I am very glad I did the conversion. I did it in about 20 mins in the driveway as well. 15mm wrench and socket and some blue locktite is all you need. I put a little grease on the tailshaft before sliding it on and then its just four bolts at the rear. There are two pieces to the carrier bracket that required taking out four bolts each to remove both pieces. Very easy.
I just put it on this morning and in just a few mile short drive I have no more vibration at any speed, no launch shudder, and smoother shifting. I was getting a pretty good 'clunk' from drive to reverse or vice-versa and hard shifting that I didn't really think was that abnormal until now that its gone. One or more u-joints must have been pretty bad but I didn't really inspect the old ones that close. The shaft slides into the transfer case every bit of 4-5 inches even though it is about an inch less than the stock shaft. This is needed though to allow the shaft to slide in as the rear suspension is compressed and driveline angle changes. I can't possibly see how the shaft is not in the case enough to cause a concern. There would have to definately be a weaker link somewhere besides that. It is a bit pricey but if your like me and need u-joints anyway the extra cost may be worth the upgrade rather than sinking money into the two-piece set-up only to have the same problems shortly down the road. I will let everyone know after I get some more miles on it but so far I am very glad I did the conversion. I did it in about 20 mins in the driveway as well. 15mm wrench and socket and some blue locktite is all you need. I put a little grease on the tailshaft before sliding it on and then its just four bolts at the rear. There are two pieces to the carrier bracket that required taking out four bolts each to remove both pieces. Very easy.
Does anybody know if you can get the one piece drive shaft for an 06 mega cab with the G56 6 speed standard tranny and 4X4. I've blown 8 carrier bearings up and am getting really sick of that problem. Thanks
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...nbanger&page=4
Look at Post #54 for the PN. Tinbanger had a quad cab long box with a 6sp. Can't remember which year they switched from the NV5600 to the G56, but his probably had a G56.
Quad cab long box and the mega cab are the same wheelbase, so it should be the same Part number.
Nope. Steel is used because it has a point where the life will essentially be infinite in terms of fatigue. In other words, with steel you can achieve an infinite fatigue life if you get the stress low enough.
Aluminum has no such point. IN other words, no matter how lightly you load aluminum, you WILL have a fatigue failure-- it's just a matter of time.
JH
Dodge part # for auto tranny is 52123220-AB
I ordered mine from dodgeparts.com and it just arrived today - less than a week since I ordered it. $430.00 for the shaft, $496.80 shipped from Washington state to south central PA. This thing is freakin huge. I hope to get it on this weekend, I'll try to post some pics before, during, and after.
I ordered mine from dodgeparts.com and it just arrived today - less than a week since I ordered it. $430.00 for the shaft, $496.80 shipped from Washington state to south central PA. This thing is freakin huge. I hope to get it on this weekend, I'll try to post some pics before, during, and after.


