I have a copy of the ALLDATA report and it says nothing about dropping the trans on the 2005, auto 4x4. From read it appears that a 2x4 is a bigger deal.

 

On the electron stealing issue, I just changed the trans fluid, the magnet likes the pan but it looks like it is aluminum, what is it made of?

 

Can you wright up the details here for us. I know the DC service manual calls for removing the trani, transfer case, bell housing and flywheel. I guess so you can slide the pan straight back after you drop the pick up tube into the pan. I have seen a wright up on another forum of someone doing a 3rd gen oil pan by lifting the front of engine and sliding the pan down and out. So I think it can be done that way but it would be nice to here from someone that has done it that way. I don't think I can post the link here though.

Thanks

 

This is from ALLDATA for 4x4, 2005.

They show 4x4 and 4x2, some of the 4x4 install does not match up to the removal so please review and comment.

The 4x2 process looks like a lot more work, in addition it tells you to remove trans lines, propeller shaft, starter, torque converter bolts, exhaust hanger, gear shift cable, wire harness, trans mounts, bell housing, steering rack bolts.

Here is the 4x4 removal.
Disconnect Battery
Remove Air Intake Assy.
Remove Radiator Shroud Bolts.
Install Engine Support Fixture #8534B - Not sure what this is?
Raise and support vehicle.
Drain Oil
Loosen Front Engine mount Bolts
Lower Vehicle
Use Engine Support Fixture to Raise Engine
Remove Dip Stick
Remove pan bolts and lower pan.
Remove suction tube and pan.
Remove the 2 bolts from the front of the engine block stiffener.
Remove Pan.


Install
- Clean and reverse steps above.

Fill T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing and pan with Silicone rubber Adhesive Sealant. ???
Install new Tube to Block Gasket
Start with the oil pump inlet bolts - Tighten bolts to 18 FT*lbs, remaining tube brace bolts to 32 FT-lbs
Oil Pan bolts 21 FT*lbs, starting in the center working out.
Intall Dip Stick - Unless you have him to help tightem bolts HA..HA
Intall Block Stiffiner
Install the flywheel to crankshaft adapter, torque to 101 FT*lbs? Not sure what this is unless it is something to do with the support fixture?
Lower Engine
Tighten mounts to 64 FT*lbs
Remove Fixture
Intall Battery Cables
Fill With Oil
Start / Check for Leaks
Remove Engine Support Fixture
Install the Fan and Fan Shroud. - Make sure the seal is properly seated.
Last but not least close the hood.
Above did not say to remove some of what they tell you to put back??

 

Thanks

 

Has anyone else switched pans yet? Please let us know how you did it.

 

I'd like to know too. I don't have an engine lift and don't plan on buying one anytime soon. I'd like to know how to change pan without lifting engine from the top.

 

I can't say for sure whether this would work on a Dodge/Cummins, but in the past I've used a floor jack under a reinforced forward part of the transmission after unbolting the motor mounts...I sometimes had to remove the radiator fan and shroud or a rear mounted distributor, but I usually found a way to make it work......Ben

 

I don't think reading about aliens coming to Earth would shock me any more than this thread.
Oil Pan Rust Trough? You got to be freaking kidding me.
I have been around cars / hotrods all of my life and just can not imagine an oil pan on a running vehicle rusting through..Especially on trucks as new as those posted about.
If I face this problem, I will be damned if Chrysler or Cummins gets a penny from me for a replacement pan.
For the dollar amounts listed, you could have a custom pan fabed.
There is NO freaking excuse for this.
Good luck fellas, guess I need to go out and grease coat my oil pan. I never thought I would have to buy cosmoline for a finish coat.

 

Honestly, it is pretty pathetic for an engine company of this reputation to be fitting their units with such cheap pans and/or paint.

I am really surprised that no one has fabbed a pan up yet. I would gladly buy a nice aluminum one and not ever worry about it again.

 

Ok, I did it, on my back in the driveway with no hoist. Six hours later because of one engine mount bolt the was rusted. Don't use the truck jack under the crank like I did, its not safe. Lifted the motor up until the heater hose at the back was tight on the top of the fire wall, then the pan slide out with out removing the pick up tube. The only thing I disconnected was the fan shroud and removed the air box,(to get at the shroud bolt).

 

I did the grinding, JB weld, priming, painting routine. So far so good...

 

Did you use the JB Weld Stick or the two part epoxy that you mix like bondo?
Did you use rust reformer on the bare metal first or put the JB on the raw steel first?

 

I got quote from http://www.freightlinerofmaine.com/default.htm, price for my pan was WAY less than Dodge dealer.
If you have a chrysler part # , try here. http://www.rtpartscointernational.com/

good luck

 

I had my oil pan replaced at the dealer last year at the tune of $1747.17, and I did stop in to see and he had said that he had to raise the engine a little to get out and new in.