oil filter replacement? which one?
#1
oil filter replacement? which one?
Hello,
I am wanting to perform an oil and filter replacement.
I have seen many excellent threads about oils and additives.
I greatly appreciate this information!
Though, I haven't found much discussion on oil filters.
Which is the best stock replacement unit?
I was thinking of the AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter.
Anyone have experience which these, or can recommend a choice?
I am wanting to perform an oil and filter replacement.
I have seen many excellent threads about oils and additives.
I greatly appreciate this information!
Though, I haven't found much discussion on oil filters.
Which is the best stock replacement unit?
I was thinking of the AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter.
Anyone have experience which these, or can recommend a choice?
#2
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#4
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The oil filter with the best micron rating is the Amsoil Ea Oil Filter. If you don't want to spend the money for the Amsoil filter the next best one too use is the Fleetguard Stratapore LF16035.
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I just pick up a bladwin filter and Rotela oil. Hasn't let me down yet. I think the key is not buying a cheapo filter and oil, most others should be almost equal. Do these filters have a pressure bypass in them?
I always wondered why my race car bearings were scratched when I rebuilt, untill I found out Fram HP-1 bypasses at 30PSI. Crank a new engine rev it to 2500 immediately and oil PSI is at 40-50 and all that cam break in material circulates through the engine for 20 minuts or so......
I always wondered why my race car bearings were scratched when I rebuilt, untill I found out Fram HP-1 bypasses at 30PSI. Crank a new engine rev it to 2500 immediately and oil PSI is at 40-50 and all that cam break in material circulates through the engine for 20 minuts or so......
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I just pick up a bladwin filter and Rotela oil. Hasn't let me down yet. I think the key is not buying a cheapo filter and oil, most others should be almost equal. Do these filters have a pressure bypass in them?
I always wondered why my race car bearings were scratched when I rebuilt, untill I found out Fram HP-1 bypasses at 30PSI. Crank a new engine rev it to 2500 immediately and oil PSI is at 40-50 and all that cam break in material circulates through the engine for 20 minuts or so......
I always wondered why my race car bearings were scratched when I rebuilt, untill I found out Fram HP-1 bypasses at 30PSI. Crank a new engine rev it to 2500 immediately and oil PSI is at 40-50 and all that cam break in material circulates through the engine for 20 minuts or so......
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I like Baldwin's PF7977...media looked good (albeit dark), but in good condition after 15000 miles. I thinks they can hold up to 23 grams of dirt IIRC. But thats fuel filters. I wouldn't have a problem running their oil filters.
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That is the correct part number...it is almost identical to the AMsoil EAo80...but the EAO80 has an anti drainaback valve, for which I really do not think we require, as the FF filter is a vertical mount. If we needed them, I would imagine Fleetguard would have incorporated them in to the filter. Good addition though.
#12
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That is the same filter that Amsoil sells, only cheaper I plan to switch to the ELF7349 at my next oil change... Its $1.45 cheaper thu amsoil than the amsoil filter.
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Fleetguard Stratopore, $10.95 Synthetic media. Amsoil EaO99 is a full flow, not a bypass and is 98% effecient @ 15 micron; 16.95 preferred customer, 26 bux retail @ napa. This is supposed to be good for 25K miles or 1 year. I use the Fleetguard Stratopore, then a Frantz which filters submicron. As others said, I would not be afraid to use Baldwin, Donaldson, Fleetquard. Lots of good choices. Good luck. We all, including myself get all carried away, and even treat it as a hobby somewhat, but really, I have never known of anyone having an engine failure as long as they changed their oil and filter with whatever wt and rating manual says.
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