Hey all. this started a few weeks ago, i have to crank the motor longer before it catches and starts. Finally it would not start until i changed the fuel filter. Now its starting to do the same thing long crank times before it catches. I have a 03 2500 no mods to speak of. Anybody had this problem ?

 

Batteries.

 

check you rail pressure relief valve on the common rail if they have opened at any time then they never reseal and allow fuel pressure to bleed off as your trying to start it. you can install a set screw in the banjo bolt that is on the top of the rail pressure relief valve and see if it helps

 

I would check the batteries also. Over time you just don't realize how much slower the engine turns over.

 

How many miles on the truck?This is also the early signs of worn injectors.Lets hope its something else.

 

Had same problem do not waste money on batteries. Injectors are draining back to tank and loosing presure. I also have a 2003 only in the winter does it happen. I plug it in every night on a timmer 3 hours before i start. Its been this way for 3 winters. summer comes all is ok. Try plugging it in. Unless you want to rebuild injectors for a few grand! Electric is cheap.

 

I would say that it's time to save for injectors. 03's are known for this.
Good luck,
Topper

 

If your pressure relief valve has opened, do you just need to replace the banjo bolt? I think I have the same problem. I just had 3 injectors replaced, and the truck seems to just take and extra second to start. It sounds like it is building pressure now where as before I just turned the key and bam!

 

thx for all the thoughts, it has 154,000 miles. i did try plugging it in and it seems to start faster. Could some one post a pic of the relief valve banjo bolt setup or how to check the pressure relief valve. Sorry for being some what uninformed most of my problems have been drive train. thanks again for the help.

 

You will need to replace it or get a rail cap.Floor-It or TS has them.There was also a SS bolt on e-bay.Just do a search for rail caps
To check the relief valve, remove the banjo bolt from the top and gently push the hard line away from the top of the valve.Take a rag and dry any fuel that is standing in the top of the relief valve.Place a bag over the end of the fuel line(once started fuel will run out at a very good rate,large ziplock works great zip tied inplace)Crank the truck and let run for a few seconds and check the top of the relief valve for fuel.It should remain dry.You can run the rpm's up to verify its not bleeding by at higher rail pressures.

 

no easy wat to check releif valve unless you have the special test fitting. Fuel can flow to the top of the valve from return line from cp3 so fuel ontop of valve does not neccesarily mean its leaking. To plug the banjo bolt you need a 1/8 npt plug with recessed allen drive and appropriate tap. tap inside of banjo (careful its soft metal) and thread in plug, grind end off to get it flush. this works as a means to test the valve if it makes it start better but is not a good fix IMO because under pressure fule can leak around coarse banjo threads. If it is the releif valve floor it diesel makes a solid body replacement for the valve or a new rail w/ valve from cummins are cheaper than replacing the valve itself. I also think you may want to start an injector fund to send them to Don at F1...