I wonder how you determine the proper level if you add a mag-hytec. I think they have dipsticks or view indicators, but I wonder if the appropriate level corresponds with the cover or with the axle...maybe it needs a certain amount of airspace, or maybe it needs to be at a certain height relative to the axle's innards. Anyone have thoughts on that?

 

General engineering practice since the crust cooled is the bottom of the hole.

I think that only a bean-counter could calculate it down to the 1/4" level.

 

Ha, I bet all of the bean counters on this thread, including myself, will get it to 1/4" below the hole..

 

we are being a little **** about a 1/4" aren't we? :-

on another note or "more crust"...ever felt the factory cover after a 30 mile trip and you KNOW the fluid height is correct? She is pretty warm. That is unloaded. Mag hytech is a good idea.

John

 

I did what you suggested and felt my diff cover this morning. I am now in the market for Mag Hytech for my diffs. That was some what supprising how warm they were after such a short trip with out a load.

Jason

 

Why do people think its a bad thing they are warm? Do you get upset when your engine is warm after a drive? The diff oil is a lubricant who's additive package, like engine oil, is activated when the oil reaches a certain temp..

 

not worried about it getting warm...I was surprised hot warm/hot it gets on a short unloaded trip. My comment was for people that tow heavy loads...I should have been more specific.

If I towed heavy, mag would be on the truck.

FWIW

 

I checked my rear differential level today using a white twist-tie bent 90 degrees and marked off in 1/4" graduations. The level was 3/4" below the fill hole. According to the figures Lightman posted I am at the bottom of the spec.(1/2" +/- 1/4&quot.

By my 04 manual I am 1/4" below the recommended level(1/4" +/- 1/4&quot. With only 1,300 miles on the truck, I guess I'll take it back to the dealer and tell them to fill it 'till it pours out the fill hole. Wonder what kind of reaction I'll get from them?

 

Be careful about usin da "pinkie" to check da GL-5 in the diff after a drive. :-X 225 deg GL-5 will turn da "pinkie" into a crispy "French Fry" short order. :'(

 

Are you guys having lots of diff problems with the 03/04 2500/3500 Rams?

I hope not. I'm getting either an 03 or an 04 this week. (4x4, LB, QC, 6-Spd, HO CTD)

I'm getting rid of a '97 F-150 that has had several differential problems. The LS Diff in this truck has been REALLY touchy. Is my new truck going to be this big of a pain?

Also...let me preface this next couple of questions by saying that I'm an idiot...are all of the diff problems related to LS diff's, or all diff's? And...why would I want a LS diff instead of a normal diff? I really don't understand the difference.

Thanks!

 

[quote author=Redneck Headbanger link=board=20;threadid=19803;start=30#msg187504 date=1064203370]
Are you guys having lots of diff problems with the 03/04 2500/3500 Rams?
. . . Is my new truck going to be this big of a pain?
I really don't understand the difference.

Thanks!
[/quote]

There have been only a few differential problems. Most have been directly related to AAM, the manufacturer of the axles filling the axles only half-way, thereby saving the cost of 2 qts of GL-5. This was the case with mine. The local dealer installed new gears and bearings, no charge. 24,000 miles later there are no problems.

If you frequently drive on slippery roads, tow trailers, drive on dirt in rainy weather, or get a 4x4 you need a limited slip diff.

The limited-slip applies power to the wheel which has traction.

 

[quote author=Sierra Phil link=board=20;threadid=19803;start=30#msg187508 date=1064204794]

There have been only a few differential problems. Most have been directly related to AAM, the manufacturer of the axles filling the axles only half-way, thereby saving the cost of 2 qts of GL-5. This was the case with mine. The local dealer installed new gears and bearings, no charge. 24,000 miles later there are no problems.

If you frequently drive on slippery roads, tow trailers, drive on dirt in rainy weather, or get a 4x4 you need a limited slip diff.

The limited-slip applies power to the wheel which has traction.
[/quote]

Thanks for the tutorial. I feel much better now.

 

A few more details which I just learned from my dealer service manager, in whom I have a good deal of trust:

* there were in fact some axles early on that were underfilled from AA, but the vast majority were filled to the correct level, which is the spec posted earlier.

* DC has pulled the fill level check from the PDI. Therefore the dealer does NOT get paid for doing this and won't, as a part of new vehicle delivery process.

* The fill spec is there for a reason. do NOT fill to the brim. this is OVERFILLING and will cause the vent to barf fluid and put seals in jeopordy. I'm emphasizing this because I had previously and incorrectly suggested filling to the brim as a "no disadvantage".

* On new trucks, all the customer has to do is perform the level check themselves, using the pinky or paper clip method. you can always bring the truck right back for service for low fluid.

re: grayish fluid color: this indicates water content. If the only gray fluid is on the end of the FILL plug, then this is probably just local condensation and no big deal. If you have gray fluid on the DRAIN PLUG of an after market diff cover then that indicates water in the fluid and this is very very bad

the real test is this: if you have water in your diff fluid then all of the fluid will be grayish white and you can test that by sticking your finger in the fill hole. If this test passes (the fluid looks clear) and you only have the gray stuff on the plug, then you're probably ok. I would then, with your finger, check the inside of the pumpkin ABOVE the fill hole for grayish fluid. if you have water in there, I think if it were me I'd have the fluid drained, the diff cleaned, and fluid replaced.