Unless my gauge is wrong it's a tad over 14 volts. I pulled and tested my batteries yesterday and it said they were charged too high with my little harbor freight battery tester thing.


I am also sometimes throwing a code and having a hard start. Sometimes especially if it sits for awhile the truck turns over ok (but a little bit slower than usual) and will fire for a sec and then continue to turn over and nothing. Then I'll have to turn the key off and wait for the battery to chill for a sec. The dealer said it threw a low volt code so I bought new batteries yesterday.


But I am stumped that the tester said they had too many volts though and even with my new 930 CCA batteries it is still charging at over 14 volts.

I am going to let the old batteries sit a few days and test them again.... Maybe I'm jumping the gun here and they are bad.

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=240896

I also have this issue too.

 

It should show 13.8 volts with all lights on, blower motor on high, engine running,

 

I would not trust cheap tools , testing especially .
Batteries can last a very short time , or past the rated months , but it depends on many things , how they were used / abused .
Unless you get one of the modern [ expensive ] digital testers , you need a load tester [ know how to use ] , expensive , but less than the new digital testers .
Then connections to batteries , ground , starter , have to be checked & maintained .
What is the code number , there are a lot of low voltage codes ?

 

I forgot the code. I am going to take it to autozone and let them scan it real quick after work. I am pretty sure the codes are still in the system even after I had the batteries unhooked yesterday for a good 20 or so minutes.


The only other problem I can think of is I had a hard time cranking it after changing the fuel filter the last couple of times. Maybe something is drawing a lot of amps at start up in the fuel system.

 

Mine does the same thing, had it tested out and its the voltage regulator inside the altenator causing the issue.

 

a good tester doesn't have to cost much. i paid 20 bucks for my multi tester, ac, and Dc, volts , ohms, etc.
your batteries can be around 12-13 volts give or a take, with out running, and up to 14.8 volts running, give or take a few. if you are starting to see that the volts are too high, i will say you have a alt problem, or something going on inside one of the batteries. thats where a good load tester will come in handy, although i have never used one myself, when a battery goes bad, i change both. 1 bad battery can take out a good battery(when running 2) and a bad alt can take out batteries, and the other way around.

 

I heard less than 14.5 was a good range, regardless of the vehicle. I think 15 is too high. Take it to autozone or another place and have it checked out. If they are high, its possibly the regulator in the alternator

 

The longer this goes on the worse it gets , you need to give complete info when looking for answers , now you have brought more questions , what does " changing fuel mean " ?
Then some wrong info , there is no voltage regulator inside of the Alt. , the voltage regulator is in the computer .
As far as testers having to cost much , they do not have to , but when it comes to testers for anything that has high current & the ability to measure high current , accurately , then tend to cost more .
There are some load testers that cost less , but then you need to know more , that costs , so your in the same boat .
As far as voltage of batteries , the range of 12-13 is way off , at 12 volts , is close to a dead battery , 12.75 volts is a fully charged battery at rest , you should never see 13 volts " at rest " , then there are other problems .
At rest , as far as battery technology goes , means that after charging / testing , let the battery sit long enough to stabilize .

 

Oh I meant to say fuel filter.

 

I tried to check the codes earlier by cycling the key 3 times and it does nothing. Even if I didn't have a code stored it should at least say DONE right?



Thanks!


Cool you mean like the overhead resets at start up if it sits for awhile?

 

Ok, I am getting somewhere here with this info, I really appreciate it.


What I am going to do today is take it over to an autozone and let them test the system to see what it's charging at and see if they can somehow pull the codes for me.

If it's regulating high does it require the truck to be reflashed? ECM replaced?



What really irks me is that this problem started while at the dealership plus I dropped 4 bills on batteries yesterday.

 

The code was p2509. It is a low voltage loss of data code. I had it erased so we'll see what happens.

Maybe that stored code was making my truck amp up a little since it assumed I had a bad battery. I'll report back if my problems continue.

 

Is your truck still under basic warranty? If it is then let the dealer work out the problem. Also batteries are covered under the 3/36, especially if they were over charged.


Tim

 

I am out of the 36/36 sadly.