My 05 Turbo Is Toast At 20k Miles While Towing TT
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: San Jose, Calif.
I don't shut down until the EGTs are below 400*. Once you have a gauge you'll see that it takes 30 seconds to a minute to get there. After towing (heavy) I let the truck idle for 5 minutes or so regardless of the EGT reading.
A couple of tips to help cool down faster are: Make sure truck is in Park or Neutral, turn off the A/C, Turn off any fueling boxes (Quad in my case), and Idle up to 1200 rpm for 5 seconds then let idle down, maybe do this a couple of times.
A couple of tips to help cool down faster are: Make sure truck is in Park or Neutral, turn off the A/C, Turn off any fueling boxes (Quad in my case), and Idle up to 1200 rpm for 5 seconds then let idle down, maybe do this a couple of times.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: San Jose, Calif.
I am really curiouse about this A/C wire issue. My A/C stopped blowig cold air right after i bought it and the dealer said it was low on refrigerant and just added more R134a with a dye to look for leaks. Seemed to work ok and a few weeks later they said they found no leaks. Now i'm out of warranty, and it is blowing hot air again. I bought a can of R134a w/ a pressure gauge and went to top it off, thinking it had leaked out again, but the pressure was already reading fine ~35psi, but the compressor was cycling on and off irradically. Wonder if the wire issues is to blame, and also if that was the original problem and the dealer just said it was low on gas?
A guy at a Mobil station put in two cans of 134a, and when we got to Flagstaff, the Dodge folks said the system was way over-filled with refrigerant.
All along it was that "dang" wire that goes into the compressor, that was intermittently making contact, so my compressor clutch was intermittently going on and off.
The sealed wire that goes from compressor to high pressure switch, finally quit making contact, and we had hot, room temperature blowing air.
In fact, you might try this experiment. While your engine is idling with the A.C. full on, climb under the front of the truck and wiggle the factory sealed wire going into the compressor. The mechanic did that and "wa la!" my compressor clutch engaged and we had cold air back again!
The only fix is a new compressor, as this wire and it's connection internally in the compressor is not accessible. Dodge told me they've had a few of them that needed this.
I talked to a Dodge owner that said he believed there was a TSB on this.
Anyway, my Dodge dealer added, un-needed refrigerant, and so did this Mobil station mechanic in Needles, Calif. a day before we took the truck into Diamond Dodge in Flagstaff for the turbo and the A.C..
I think my Dodge dealer in California, really blew it, but it is a difficult thing to troubleshoot. If you don't somehow bypass something electrically and force the clutch to engage and see if you get cooling, you think that you've leaked-out all your refrigerant. All along it isn't low refrigerant, it's a bad electrical connection that's stopping the A.C. clutch from engaging.
My Dodge dealer replaced the high pressure switch last year and added about a 1/2 can of R134a, and said "problem fixed". It wasn't the high pressure switch all along, but the wire going from the compressor to the high pressure switch.
When the Mobil station mechanic wiggled that wire while the A.C. was on, the clutch would click on and off as he pushed and wiggled it where it entered the compressor. He finally Jury-rigged up a tie-wrap on the wire so that the wire was held in a certain position to kept the contact in compressor from breaking, and we had A.C. all the way to Flagstaff. We let the Dodge folks know what he had done to get the A.C. working again, and that probably helped us solve the actual problem. The A.C. mechanic at Flagstaff was thinking we had a high pressure leak on a hose or fitting. When I told them we had cold air when that wire was wiggled, they attacked the problem form a totally different direction and found the actual cause.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,564
Likes: 6
From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
RE: EGT idling and shut down.
The owner's manual has a reference on this. Running empty just around town you need not idle more than a minute before shutdown. After a heavy towing run in hot weather, it should idle at LEAST 5 minutes (I'd do more like 10). to cool things off.
Shutting down based on EGT isn't really relevant because the exhaust will cool down much faster than the turbocharger will. The turbo needs the oil flowing through it to draw out the heat.
Turbocharger "coking" isn't really an issue with modern turbos and modern oils.
Still, I use a synthetic oil mostly for the turbo's sake-- the rest of the engine doesn't benefit that much that I can tell from a better oil.
So here's a good shutdown guide: always let it idle at least 30seconds before shutdown, regardless of EGT. The harder the engine has worked and the hotter the ambient temps-- the longer you could let it idle.
Ideally, an oil temp gauge plumbed just after the turbo would be your best guide for shutdown info.
The owner's manual has a reference on this. Running empty just around town you need not idle more than a minute before shutdown. After a heavy towing run in hot weather, it should idle at LEAST 5 minutes (I'd do more like 10). to cool things off.
Shutting down based on EGT isn't really relevant because the exhaust will cool down much faster than the turbocharger will. The turbo needs the oil flowing through it to draw out the heat.
Turbocharger "coking" isn't really an issue with modern turbos and modern oils.
Still, I use a synthetic oil mostly for the turbo's sake-- the rest of the engine doesn't benefit that much that I can tell from a better oil.
So here's a good shutdown guide: always let it idle at least 30seconds before shutdown, regardless of EGT. The harder the engine has worked and the hotter the ambient temps-- the longer you could let it idle.
Ideally, an oil temp gauge plumbed just after the turbo would be your best guide for shutdown info.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 1
From: Dakotas
RE: EGT idling and shut down.
The owner's manual has a reference on this. Running empty just around town you need not idle more than a minute before shutdown. After a heavy towing run in hot weather, it should idle at LEAST 5 minutes (I'd do more like 10). to cool things off.
Shutting down based on EGT isn't really relevant because the exhaust will cool down much faster than the turbocharger will. The turbo needs the oil flowing through it to draw out the heat.
Turbocharger "coking" isn't really an issue with modern turbos and modern oils.
Still, I use a synthetic oil mostly for the turbo's sake-- the rest of the engine doesn't benefit that much that I can tell from a better oil.
So here's a good shutdown guide: always let it idle at least 30seconds before shutdown, regardless of EGT. The harder the engine has worked and the hotter the ambient temps-- the longer you could let it idle.
Ideally, an oil temp gauge plumbed just after the turbo would be your best guide for shutdown info.
The owner's manual has a reference on this. Running empty just around town you need not idle more than a minute before shutdown. After a heavy towing run in hot weather, it should idle at LEAST 5 minutes (I'd do more like 10). to cool things off.
Shutting down based on EGT isn't really relevant because the exhaust will cool down much faster than the turbocharger will. The turbo needs the oil flowing through it to draw out the heat.
Turbocharger "coking" isn't really an issue with modern turbos and modern oils.
Still, I use a synthetic oil mostly for the turbo's sake-- the rest of the engine doesn't benefit that much that I can tell from a better oil.
So here's a good shutdown guide: always let it idle at least 30seconds before shutdown, regardless of EGT. The harder the engine has worked and the hotter the ambient temps-- the longer you could let it idle.
Ideally, an oil temp gauge plumbed just after the turbo would be your best guide for shutdown info.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 4
From: Kuna, Idaho
On a normal commute I have a slow last mile, and the temp is about 225* when I get to the house... After towing 4K the same drive, no more than 55mph, only 20 miles total, and no real hills... The temp is 350-400* when I get home, and takes 2-3 minutes to get below 300*... I wont shut down above 300*, and prefer to shut down around 250*..... You have stock programing so your turbo is going to be more heat saturated than mine... A good cool down is very important... Your pyro will be good for that...
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
Concerning cool-down: I do idle for a few minutes after towing, but usually don't when just driving empty, as I have to exit the freeway, and drive a little ways to my house at residential speeds, and figured that would suffice for the turbo cool-down in that situation.
I've heard that just bringing your speed down to city or residential speeds after being on the freeway/interstate/pike is a good cool-down period.
I've heard that just bringing your speed down to city or residential speeds after being on the freeway/interstate/pike is a good cool-down period.
I have an EGT gauge and it shows that just putting around the subdivision WITHOUT any load, just letting it coast, my EGT temps are still in the 400F-500F range. Shutting the truck down with a 500F temp EGT will shorten your turbo life.
Get a EGT gauge OR a turbo cool-down setup. You will see what I am talking about. If you tow, it takes about 2 minutes to cool down at times...
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 0
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 704
Likes: 2
From: Bellingham, WA
I went through the same thing about a year ago with my regular Dodge dealer in Calif.., before it quit on the Arizona trip that I mentioned in the intro.
A guy at a Mobil station put in two cans of 134a, and when we got to Flagstaff, the Dodge folks said the system was way over-filled with refrigerant.
All along it was that "dang" wire that goes into the compressor, that was intermittently making contact, so my compressor clutch was intermittently going on and off.
The sealed wire that goes from compressor to high pressure switch, finally quit making contact, and we had hot, room temperature blowing air.
In fact, you might try this experiment. While your engine is idling with the A.C. full on, climb under the front of the truck and wiggle the factory sealed wire going into the compressor. The mechanic did that and "wa la!" my compressor clutch engaged and we had cold air back again!
The only fix is a new compressor, as this wire and it's connection internally in the compressor is not accessible. Dodge told me they've had a few of them that needed this.
I talked to a Dodge owner that said he believed there was a TSB on this.
Anyway, my Dodge dealer added, un-needed refrigerant, and so did this Mobil station mechanic in Needles, Calif. a day before we took the truck into Diamond Dodge in Flagstaff for the turbo and the A.C..
I think my Dodge dealer in California, really blew it, but it is a difficult thing to troubleshoot. If you don't somehow bypass something electrically and force the clutch to engage and see if you get cooling, you think that you've leaked-out all your refrigerant. All along it isn't low refrigerant, it's a bad electrical connection that's stopping the A.C. clutch from engaging.
My Dodge dealer replaced the high pressure switch last year and added about a 1/2 can of R134a, and said "problem fixed". It wasn't the high pressure switch all along, but the wire going from the compressor to the high pressure switch.
When the Mobil station mechanic wiggled that wire while the A.C. was on, the clutch would click on and off as he pushed and wiggled it where it entered the compressor. He finally Jury-rigged up a tie-wrap on the wire so that the wire was held in a certain position to kept the contact in compressor from breaking, and we had A.C. all the way to Flagstaff. We let the Dodge folks know what he had done to get the A.C. working again, and that probably helped us solve the actual problem. The A.C. mechanic at Flagstaff was thinking we had a high pressure leak on a hose or fitting. When I told them we had cold air when that wire was wiggled, they attacked the problem form a totally different direction and found the actual cause.
A guy at a Mobil station put in two cans of 134a, and when we got to Flagstaff, the Dodge folks said the system was way over-filled with refrigerant.
All along it was that "dang" wire that goes into the compressor, that was intermittently making contact, so my compressor clutch was intermittently going on and off.
The sealed wire that goes from compressor to high pressure switch, finally quit making contact, and we had hot, room temperature blowing air.
In fact, you might try this experiment. While your engine is idling with the A.C. full on, climb under the front of the truck and wiggle the factory sealed wire going into the compressor. The mechanic did that and "wa la!" my compressor clutch engaged and we had cold air back again!
The only fix is a new compressor, as this wire and it's connection internally in the compressor is not accessible. Dodge told me they've had a few of them that needed this.
I talked to a Dodge owner that said he believed there was a TSB on this.
Anyway, my Dodge dealer added, un-needed refrigerant, and so did this Mobil station mechanic in Needles, Calif. a day before we took the truck into Diamond Dodge in Flagstaff for the turbo and the A.C..
I think my Dodge dealer in California, really blew it, but it is a difficult thing to troubleshoot. If you don't somehow bypass something electrically and force the clutch to engage and see if you get cooling, you think that you've leaked-out all your refrigerant. All along it isn't low refrigerant, it's a bad electrical connection that's stopping the A.C. clutch from engaging.
My Dodge dealer replaced the high pressure switch last year and added about a 1/2 can of R134a, and said "problem fixed". It wasn't the high pressure switch all along, but the wire going from the compressor to the high pressure switch.
When the Mobil station mechanic wiggled that wire while the A.C. was on, the clutch would click on and off as he pushed and wiggled it where it entered the compressor. He finally Jury-rigged up a tie-wrap on the wire so that the wire was held in a certain position to kept the contact in compressor from breaking, and we had A.C. all the way to Flagstaff. We let the Dodge folks know what he had done to get the A.C. working again, and that probably helped us solve the actual problem. The A.C. mechanic at Flagstaff was thinking we had a high pressure leak on a hose or fitting. When I told them we had cold air when that wire was wiggled, they attacked the problem form a totally different direction and found the actual cause.
Well i think i have finally narrowed down my A/C problem after checking the wires that go to the compressor and high press. switch. I couldn't get the compressor to come on by moving the wire on the back, but then i followed the wire going to the high press switch and found that it was rubbing through on the high pressure line. Thats when i remembered the " everyone read this, you may have a shorted wire" thread in the sticky that decribes this problem. Going to re-wire it this wkend and add some loom, I hope the short was just keeping the high press switch from working.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
From: Western Colorado
Not here to entirely say bad things from Diesel Manor. When purchasing gauges for my Dodge I went to them again as i had used them in the past for the Fords.
Close to 3 months ago i ordered everything. It came on time about 1 week later but they sent me two trans temp gauges and no boost gauge. no problem. They charged me for the boost gauge again and i sent in the trans temp gauge. ok so I wait an additional week for the boost gauge it came about 1.5 weeks later. So the next weekend was gauge install time. Go to install everything and they left out the boost bolt. ok so I hook it all up but working boost gauge and notice the lighting is pretty far off on the boost gauge from other two gauges. l them on Monday. They charge me for boost bolt and say in the mail ..No problem...(i clearly find later on website boost bolt included in kit....no big deal $10 plus shipping).....Meanwhile I had to contact Danin Dipricol for warranty on gauges before Diesel Manor would take gauge back or swap it....Ok so now i am in the warranty work w/ manufacturer business....Whatever....I get the ok from Danin then call Diesel manor..They say ok return it well pay for shipping well send you a return label w/ your boost bolt that hasnt gone out yet...Uhhhh ok....So boost bolt comes return label comes and i send gauge back. I wait...and wait...Then call/email about 10 business days later and get an email that says ok Danin warrantied your gauge and the new one will be sent.....Alright I will finally get this gauge project done only about 2 months after the fact. So i wait another week for aguge to arrive. gauge makes it finally ....Now to finish things. open the box and they sent me a 0-35 black faced boost when my order was for a white faced 0-60 boost...ok so now they are sending me random parts.....i call them get no response. i email and get a sorry...ok well nothing short of close to almost 3 full months as shipping times caused HUGE delays. gauge is suppose to be here today. oh and I got charged again for the gauge, and will most likley have to follow this transaction until they refund me.
I am not entirely convinced I personally will do any more business w/ them after what has happened. Yes they are fufilling my order as I placed it months ago. Great i paid for stuff months ago its the least they could do
I had great luck with them in the past. This time around its been one mistake after another and being charged again and again for things and having a truck not finished has really gotten old.
Your mileage may vary but there are enough vendors out there that this guy will spend the money w/ someone else.
Close to 3 months ago i ordered everything. It came on time about 1 week later but they sent me two trans temp gauges and no boost gauge. no problem. They charged me for the boost gauge again and i sent in the trans temp gauge. ok so I wait an additional week for the boost gauge it came about 1.5 weeks later. So the next weekend was gauge install time. Go to install everything and they left out the boost bolt. ok so I hook it all up but working boost gauge and notice the lighting is pretty far off on the boost gauge from other two gauges. l them on Monday. They charge me for boost bolt and say in the mail ..No problem...(i clearly find later on website boost bolt included in kit....no big deal $10 plus shipping).....Meanwhile I had to contact Danin Dipricol for warranty on gauges before Diesel Manor would take gauge back or swap it....Ok so now i am in the warranty work w/ manufacturer business....Whatever....I get the ok from Danin then call Diesel manor..They say ok return it well pay for shipping well send you a return label w/ your boost bolt that hasnt gone out yet...Uhhhh ok....So boost bolt comes return label comes and i send gauge back. I wait...and wait...Then call/email about 10 business days later and get an email that says ok Danin warrantied your gauge and the new one will be sent.....Alright I will finally get this gauge project done only about 2 months after the fact. So i wait another week for aguge to arrive. gauge makes it finally ....Now to finish things. open the box and they sent me a 0-35 black faced boost when my order was for a white faced 0-60 boost...ok so now they are sending me random parts.....i call them get no response. i email and get a sorry...ok well nothing short of close to almost 3 full months as shipping times caused HUGE delays. gauge is suppose to be here today. oh and I got charged again for the gauge, and will most likley have to follow this transaction until they refund me.
I am not entirely convinced I personally will do any more business w/ them after what has happened. Yes they are fufilling my order as I placed it months ago. Great i paid for stuff months ago its the least they could do
I had great luck with them in the past. This time around its been one mistake after another and being charged again and again for things and having a truck not finished has really gotten old.Your mileage may vary but there are enough vendors out there that this guy will spend the money w/ someone else.
So .... I called Geno's on Monday and told Scott I figured that a 0-50 psi face got onto a 0-30 body ..... he agreed and was ready to send out another one right then but I said I would test it with a master gauge first to make sure it was the gauge and not the truck. So I checked it and yeah it was reading way high .... like 44 at 30 actual psi. Called back late Monday afternoon and missed the UPS pickup at Geno's 
..... got a tracking number on Tues. and the replacement gage with return shipping label came in on Friday ..... checked the new gage and it was good ... swapped it out and took another test run that showed 30 psi at WOT in 5th/6th. I have never had a bad experience with Geno's but this one was one of my best with ANY business .... good people to deal with and I hope they make a ton of money with service like that! 
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The_Head
1st Gen. Ram - All Topics
7
Dec 19, 2011 10:28 PM
Little-bit
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
15
Dec 22, 2006 12:03 PM