Mobil1 5W-40 Synthetic $22.00
I know it is hard to find in the US but I run Esso Extra XD-3 0W40 all year round. It is a true group 4 oil and has better cold and hot temp data than many conventional oil....did I also mention that it cost within pennies of Mobil Delvac 1300.....Yes I did say 0W40 and yes all year round. It is about the same price and I would rather run a synthetic group 4 (not a group 3) than a conventional oil especially if there is minimal price difference.
In my road race car I run Mobil 1 0W40 and have not had a problem in 4 years on the current engine.
That out to start more of a war....
In my road race car I run Mobil 1 0W40 and have not had a problem in 4 years on the current engine.
That out to start more of a war....
Is there a recommended mileage that you can start using synthetic oil in the 5.9 cummins? I do believe in synthetic oil but I have used it in a fresh 350 Chevy rebuild (within 2000 miles) and the rings did not seat. Always puffed smoke.....maybe just the bowtie...haha..My 2007 CTD only has 7100 miles on it now. Wait a little longer?
Is there a recommended mileage that you can start using synthetic oil in the 5.9 cummins? I do believe in synthetic oil but I have used it in a fresh 350 Chevy rebuild (within 2000 miles) and the rings did not seat. Always puffed smoke.....maybe just the bowtie...haha..My 2007 CTD only has 7100 miles on it now. Wait a little longer?
I love to read about all these "gassers" that come from the factory with mobile 1. What did your diesel come with?
Now you guys running around stock, syn is fine.
If you are heavily overfueled, soot buildup happens much faster in your truck. The problem with syn oil is that it does not mix and support the soot molecules as well and as a result, the soot is deposited all along the oiled passages: inside turbo journal bearings, engine bearings, etc. A rep from HTT just got back from an oil conference put on by Borg Warner. Borg Warner paid some $ to do the research. Borg Warner told HTT that conventional oil is better for turbo life period. Soot causes a lot of wear and tear on stuff.
So if you don't soot up too fast, syn is great, but if you're like me and black in 100 miles, conventional is the only way to go.
Now you guys running around stock, syn is fine.
If you are heavily overfueled, soot buildup happens much faster in your truck. The problem with syn oil is that it does not mix and support the soot molecules as well and as a result, the soot is deposited all along the oiled passages: inside turbo journal bearings, engine bearings, etc. A rep from HTT just got back from an oil conference put on by Borg Warner. Borg Warner paid some $ to do the research. Borg Warner told HTT that conventional oil is better for turbo life period. Soot causes a lot of wear and tear on stuff.
So if you don't soot up too fast, syn is great, but if you're like me and black in 100 miles, conventional is the only way to go.
living in both arizona and alaska .. i ve been through both extremes and i believe synthetic is just as inportant in both extreme cold and hot climates ..
my temps stay lower in 118* heat of arizona summers and run a alot smoother in
-45* winters
i have drained dino fluid with it frothing and all white from getting so hot .. and tried changing oil in -30* and the oil wont pour out of the pan cold .
synthetic pours every time and never breaks down ..
its worth it to me here and i wont change the oil for another 15,000 miles ..
unless the oil anylisis says otherwise ..
my temps stay lower in 118* heat of arizona summers and run a alot smoother in
-45* winters
i have drained dino fluid with it frothing and all white from getting so hot .. and tried changing oil in -30* and the oil wont pour out of the pan cold .
synthetic pours every time and never breaks down ..
its worth it to me here and i wont change the oil for another 15,000 miles ..
unless the oil anylisis says otherwise ..
I have 322,000 miles on my 1999, I broke the motor in on Rotella and then switched over to Mobil 1. I only change oil and filter every 25,000 miles, uses less oil now than when she had 50,000 on her.
I use Mobil 1 in the gas engines and change every 15,000 miles.
I have Mobil 1 in my lawnmower, portable welder, 3 wheeler etc. everything I own has Mobil in it.
It can help your fuel mileage but one thing for certain it really makes the motor quiet down and doesn't knock nearly as much on cold weather starts.
BTW- I use only the Mobil 1 filters with their oil.
I am not affiliated with Mobil in any way -- Just a satisfied customer!!!
I use Mobil 1 in the gas engines and change every 15,000 miles.
I have Mobil 1 in my lawnmower, portable welder, 3 wheeler etc. everything I own has Mobil in it.
It can help your fuel mileage but one thing for certain it really makes the motor quiet down and doesn't knock nearly as much on cold weather starts.
BTW- I use only the Mobil 1 filters with their oil.
I am not affiliated with Mobil in any way -- Just a satisfied customer!!!
I'm just throwing this out there, but I run Royal Purple 15 40 from www.longrider.com and for $20.00 bucks and gallon and my 8 thousand mile oil changes, I think it's worth it... I can't stand to go over 8. I used to be the 3,000 to 3,500 mile guys MAX on a oil change.
The weight thing,(15W40, 5W30,etc) has got to do with the temperatures you run the engine in.
The important thing you need to be looking at is the API classification. Look in your manual, it'll tell you that in a diesel engine it'll be something on the order of CH, CI, CJ-4 or something on that order. Oils rated SF, SH, SJ are for gasoline engines and NOT to be used in a diesel engine. Some oils are rated for both such as Rotella T.
I work on and around diesels daily and don't really see a difference between brands that would cause me to use one over another. The only exception is that I will use Delo 40 in a Detroit 2 stroke if at all possible. Some of the big stuff like the EMD and ALCOs need a different oil than what you get in Walmart or NAPA but then you only get that stuff in drums or bulk anyway.
Read and heed.
The important thing you need to be looking at is the API classification. Look in your manual, it'll tell you that in a diesel engine it'll be something on the order of CH, CI, CJ-4 or something on that order. Oils rated SF, SH, SJ are for gasoline engines and NOT to be used in a diesel engine. Some oils are rated for both such as Rotella T.
I work on and around diesels daily and don't really see a difference between brands that would cause me to use one over another. The only exception is that I will use Delo 40 in a Detroit 2 stroke if at all possible. Some of the big stuff like the EMD and ALCOs need a different oil than what you get in Walmart or NAPA but then you only get that stuff in drums or bulk anyway.
Read and heed.
The M1 5W40, Delvac 1 or whatever it's being packaged as, has a very good reputation. The more extreme the temps and/or loading the more benefit you get from a good synthetic. Heavy duty diesels have huge sumps (ours are merely large), good engine cooling (like ours), and the over-the-road trucks typically have a low number of cold starts relative to miles driven (ousr are all over the map). Studies show that in cold weather there is less wear due to cold starts when a 5w40 is used compared to the typical 15w40, which makes sense.


