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Mobil1 5W-40 Synthetic $22.00

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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 01:11 AM
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Mobil1 5W-40 Synthetic $22.00

WalMart has some Mobil1 Diesel rated synthetic oil 5w-40 weight. It is selling for $22.00 a jug (4 quarts).

I am going to switch to it for the winter (easier starts, less wear & tear compared to Dello 15w-40).

Anyone else running Mobil1?

Can one switch back to conventional AFTER winter?
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 03:17 AM
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Yeah you can switch back. The light stuff (5w40) is good for wintertime for sure.....
I wouldnt run it though if I was pulling heavy on a regular basis IMO.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by PourinDiesel
Yeah you can switch back. The light stuff (5w40) is good for wintertime for sure.....
I wouldnt run it though if I was pulling heavy on a regular basis IMO.
Here is the Mobil 1 web-site info:

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Mo...uck_5W-40.aspx

It is actually an old myth that a lighter weight synthetic oil is "too thin". Actually, the opposite is true. Also, the weights of both oils are 40, when HOT. So the synthetic is NOT any thinner when hot. It actually has MUCH better shear properties.

Now, here is where the Mobil1 exceeds:

Mobil 1 still flows @ -50F
Conventional stops flowing @ -22F

Flashpoint for Mobil 1 = 440F
Flashpoint for Delo, Rotella and other conventional = 400F

ALL high-performance cars (like the Corvette) come from the factory with SYNTHETIC Mobil 1. If you switch to conventional, GM cancels your engine warranty.

I run synthetics in ALL my cars. I have a 1994 Olds Cutlass with 150K miles and it still running. I honestly believe it is because of synthetic oil.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 04:15 AM
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Myth it might be, but for me the 5w40 when dumping hot out of the oil pan it came out with the consistency of WATER.
When I drain conventional 15w40 hot it still has a consistent thickness to it.

No more water for my engine lube!!
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 05:58 AM
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I've been using it for a while now with no complaints, but then again I have never used ANY oil that has caused any type of issue. This last change I had to use Delvac because I went to 3 different Wal-Marts and they were all out of stock.

I run Mobil1 in everything I have though, IMO it's as good if not better than anything else out there.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 07:52 AM
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I just switched to it last LOF. Cummins recommends 5w40.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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I switched to the synthetic Mobil 1 from the standard Delvac at my last oil change (22.5K). I also plan to continue using the synthetic all the time. I used Mobil 1 in my 1994 Chevy gasser that is still runing strong (200K+). For me, they make a good product that I can get just about anywhere. Plus they support a lot of the race teams I like to watch.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 09:42 AM
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check to make sure it is only CI+4 and no CJ-4, id stay away from the newer oils
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by PourinDiesel
Myth it might be, but for me the 5w40 when dumping hot out of the oil pan it came out with the consistency of WATER.
When I drain conventional 15w40 hot it still has a consistent thickness to it.

No more water for my engine lube!!


I'll say, right on!
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by pet05
I run synthetics in ALL my cars. I have a 1994 Olds Cutlass with 150K miles and it is still running. I honestly believe it is because of synthetic oil.

My truck has 150K, grossing 30K lbs, racing, dyno pulls, abuse like mad, and I run conventional oil. I honestly beleive it is because of dino oil.



On edit: I also pay $8 a gallon
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 10:04 AM
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Im glad I stumbled across this thread....I just got a FREE 55 gallon drum of Mobil 1 5w40 the other day... Also Pet05 is 100% correct. The oil has the same weight (thickness) when hot as 15w40. The first number represents the thickness factor when cold and the second number represents a hot thickness. As far as PourinDiesel's comment..that is more likely to be a fluke then something you can expect all the time. Its only "better" in the winter because of the 5 as opposed to 15.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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PS. the "W" stands for WINTER ie. 5winter/40
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 02:03 PM
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I have been in the racing and car restoration world for 15+years. I have restored and raced myself. There are the "old school" guys that stick with the stuff they ran in the 60's and 70's. Not only engine oil, but running high duration cams, instead of newer, better cams that work on other principles for power, instead of just duration. They are the "dinosaurs" and will not change.

Anyway, some people just will not believe the facts about synthetics. All these "wives' tale" about synthetics still circulate.

# Acura RDX
# Aston Martin
# All Bentley Vehicles
# Cadillac CTS, CTS-V, Escalade, XLR, XLR-V, SRX, STS and STS-V
# Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
# Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
# Chrysler 300C SRT-8
# Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
# Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
# Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
# Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
# Mercedes SLR
# Mitsubishi Evolution
# Pontiac Solstice GXP
# All Porsche Vehicles
# Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
# Viper SRT-10

All of those vehicles run MOBIL 1 from the factory. Car Craft magazine, Car & Driver, etc, have all conducted their own tests and synthetics outperform each and every conventional oil out there.

To each his own but when its 20F or colder outside and you go and try and fire-up your Diesel with 15W-40 oil and it flows like molasses for the first 3 minutes, your call. Or you can run a synthetic where it will flow to almost -50F.
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by pet05
To each his own but when its 20F or colder outside and you go and try and fire-up your Diesel with 15W-40 oil and it flows like molasses for the first 3 minutes, your call. Or you can run a synthetic where it will flow to almost -50F.


Well, I guess I am lucky then. If it reaches 32* around here, it is news. Till then, I will keep on using dino, and have success using it, and pay cheaper prices along the way
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Old Sep 18, 2007 | 04:03 PM
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Check the API cerfification on the bottle also. Mobil1 used to not be "C" compression ignition certified, only "S" spark ignition thus the Delvac line of oils. Make sure it is The current standard of CI-4. CJ-4 shouldn't be necessary.

Only dino for me......whats a winter? (N.C. average winter temp 48F)

Chris
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