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manual to auto for heavy towing

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Old 06-30-2010, 05:05 PM
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WAM
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manual to auto for heavy towing

I only use this truck for towing. Between 18,000 and 23,000 lbs combined weight. I'm not very happy with my 6-speed and am thinking about converting to an automatic. First my dualmass flywheel crapped out. I installed a dual-disc Southbend clutch package with a 1-piece flywheel and it's noisy as hell. Slow and balky shifting too.

So I'm wondering about converting to an automatic. I wouldn't expect a stock 48RE from a wrecking yard to stand up. But are there heavier duty towing transmissions I can buy and swap in? Do I even have to use the 48RE or can I just start with something newer like the 2010 trannys? Or is there something from the medium duty truck line that would be a good way to go?

And can anyone recommend a good tranny shop north of Los Angeles. Like Hesperia, Victorville, Palmdale or Lancaster? I'll want to hire someone to do the swap for me.
Old 06-30-2010, 05:15 PM
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I would call Dave Goerend (Goerend transmission) and tell him you need a tranny set up for bullet proof towing. He'll fix you up.

ATS is not a bad choice either, depending on where you are in Cali, you may be able to just drive up to them and have them install it right there.

Without a lot of fabricating, you're not going to get a different tranny in there. I don't know if you made the right clutch selection, there may be a better clutch out there for towing.
Old 06-30-2010, 06:06 PM
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If you are not going to run crazy power, get a single disk clutch from SB or Valair. I have the SB Con OFe single disk and it holds the Smarty on 170hp tune no problem. It also is not noisy unless you lug the engine, then you will get a little gear chatter. I don't tow at high hp settings, but you get the idea.

The auto trans will require a different drive shaft, ECM or reflash at the least, trans cooler, cooler lines, possibly a different radiator, and I am sure I am missing something else.
Old 06-30-2010, 06:58 PM
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take nickbeek's advice. a auto is a disaster of monumental proportions. we tow up to 44.000 lbs with the 06 sb conofe. i do have the dynatrac free spin hubs that give me a low range 2wd low reverse and three more lower forward gears. i do not see 4wd on your sig but at a mere 23,000 i do not need or use the forward ones
Old 06-30-2010, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by NickBeek
If you are not going to run crazy power, get a single disk clutch from SB or Valair. I have the SB Con OFe single disk and it holds the Smarty on 170hp tune no problem. It also is not noisy unless you lug the engine, then you will get a little gear chatter. I don't tow at high hp settings, but you get the idea.

The auto trans will require a different drive shaft, ECM or reflash at the least, trans cooler, cooler lines, possibly a different radiator, and I am sure I am missing something else.
I agree. I think the dual disc clutches are great in theory, but from what I hear they cause drivability to suffer a great deal. The cheapest easiest and most practical (in my opinion) way for you to be happy again is to scrap the dual disc setup and replace it with a single disc clutch that doesn't use the dual-mass flywheel. Give South Bend a call and have him choose a strong clutch with stock-like drivability. You may then be able to sell your used DD clutch assembly and get some of your money back.
Old 06-30-2010, 08:27 PM
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Spend some time talking to the guys who have had both, they almost always prefer manual to auto for towing.

Get a decent clutch for your application and I think you'll be much happer.
Old 06-30-2010, 08:48 PM
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I was thinking the noise came from two sources. The noise at idle is from the additional plates that are unloaded at idle. But I also get a big noise and vibration when under 2000 rpm. Obviously I can downshift and keep the engine in the powerband, but sometimes I temporarily dip below 2k and would just as soon accel back up using light throttle. I was told by the tech guy at Southbend that this noise is from the 1-piece flywheel putting vibration into the aluminum trans housing. If so, I don't see how changing to a single disc clutch would help that.

But you're right. If I had it to do over, I'd pass on the dual disc clutch.
Old 06-30-2010, 08:50 PM
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By the time you pay for the new tranny and conversion, you will be in with some deep $$ investments.
Old 06-30-2010, 09:46 PM
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Like above....If you are ready to dump the needed cash to swap to a built auto you might as well get a better clutch set up and sell your current one to recoup some $$.
Not sure why the SB tech said some of the noise is the new flywheel. All the research I have done say the single disc and solid flywheel are still quiet. When I am ready i will be getting the Con OFe and solid flywheel like mentioned above.
Old 06-30-2010, 11:42 PM
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No way I'd go to an auto.
My OFE takes my 500 hp fine but I don't tow at that setting.
Why did you get a DD?
Old 07-01-2010, 12:30 AM
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If you are willing to spend some big money on an Auto,and the conversion to the Auto, there is nothing wrong with a built Auto. However, I don't think it is the most cost effective way to go. I'd just look for a good quality towing clutch.
Old 07-01-2010, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by WAM

But you're right. If I had it to do over, I'd pass on the dual disc clutch.
if you get rid of that dd, give me a pm
Old 07-01-2010, 09:13 AM
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the bmf does quieten the noise compared to a solid but the single disk is not to loud
Old 07-01-2010, 08:42 PM
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The only time I get gear chatter out of mine is at very low RPM's I mean right off idle. Otherwise it is quiet and reliable and shifts as fast as the stock clutch did.
Old 07-01-2010, 09:03 PM
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I have read that OEM went to a DMF with the G56 to increase the durability of the alum case... anyone else read that, and confirm or deny it?

I have a 5600 so its not an issue, but my dad has a G56 and want to give him the best advise when its clutch time.. and since 80% of his miles are towing and he has 63K on the clock it probably wont be long.


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