3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Loss of boost 2005 CTD

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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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Loss of boost 2005 CTD

Towing my gooseneck home from an event yesterday, I started losing boost pressure and could hear boost escaping. A quick check under the hood failed to reveal the culprit, so I continued home, taking it very easy on the hills. After about ten minutes, while pulling a gentle hill, the leak stopped and I was able to generate boost. Deciding to test to see if it would do it again, I slowly pressed the pedal. It held boost fine up to 37 lbs and then it started dumping it again and continued to dump it the rest of the way home. After I got completely unload, I took it out for a drive and continued to lose boost. I clicked the key three times to check error codes, but none were displayed. Any suggestions?

For ref, my truck is 2005 CTD with 174K. Only performance mods are BHAF, 4” cat-back and a Quadzilla Xzillaraider box. Normal max boost is approx 42 lbs.
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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:42 PM
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Early 05 CAC had plastic end tanks that would seperate then seal when boost dropped. What is th ebuild date of your truck, its on the drivers door or b-pillar.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
Early 05 CAC had plastic end tanks that would seperate then seal when boost dropped. What is th ebuild date of your truck, its on the drivers door or b-pillar.
It's definitely the dreaded plastic intercooler, but no visible flaws. I'm going to pressurize the system tonight and see if I can find the leak.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:52 AM
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They will seperate on the seams between end tank and tubes, just a small area, and go back together when the pressure drops. Almost impossible to see a flaw. Should be able to see\hear it when pressurized though.
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
They will seperate on the seams between end tank and tubes, just a small area, and go back together when the pressure drops. Almost impossible to see a flaw. Should be able to see\hear it when pressurized though.
That's what happened to mine, it would hold pressure until about 28 then pop and not let me get above 25 until it cooled...
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
They will seperate on the seams between end tank and tubes, just a small area, and go back together when the pressure drops. Almost impossible to see a flaw. Should be able to see\hear it when pressurized though.
Winner, winner, chicken dinner! You were right, seperated at the seams. Any suggestions on where to get a new one? Factory or aftermarket?

Thanks,
Rip
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:26 PM
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Good question, I would be tempted to look at the after markets and see how much better they are if any for the $$. Depends on what you wan tto do and how much you want to spend.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 06:47 AM
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I was told by someone that these can be re-sealed at a radiator shop depending on if it is broken or just the gasket let go. You may want to try this. From the information in the conversation, these inner coolers are made very similar to a radiator. They have large o-rings on each side where the housing meets the aluminum cooling tubes. These o-rings can lose their seal. I also have heard if the housing is plastic it can crack and there would be no repair. At any rate depending on the cost and how stuffed your wallet is, you may want to consider looking into having this re-sealed if possible.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 08:51 AM
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Normally the tabs that hold the plastic to the metal are what fails. Not worth the repair, IMHO.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 10:32 AM
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Ordered a new one through a friend from Banks.

Thanks to all for the help.

Rip
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