I have a '03 3500 that the clutch is slipping. I am having it checked out but if I can not get it adjusted I have to replace it. I would like to know if anyone has any ideas of what to have the shop replace it with due to the towing that the truck does. I just want it to last for awhile and not sure if the stock parts are the right choice to put back into it. Towing cosists of a 18' car hauler and a 29' toyhauler. I do take care of the clutch but due to some high winds I faced lately, made the mistake of not bringing her down in gears far enough. My mistake not hers. Any help would be great. Thanks.

 

What have you done to your truck, or is it stock? (Fill in your signature so we all know).

The South Bend OFE is rated at 450 HP but it will hold over 500. Mine's been great, just the slightest bit more grabby than the stock one but easy to get used to, doesn't buck while backing a trailer.

 

I fixed my signature. Other than that the truck is at 44,000 miles and is stock. I don't even use the Predator system. It was given to me as a present. I just want to make sure that I put the right stuff back into her to make her a little better. Thanks

 

Southbend ConOFE. Without a doubt best replacement. It's money but you won't have to ever worry about the driveline again.

 

Thats not true captain I had a Southbend ConOFE I my truck before I pulled it and put in something else. Pressure plate was weak and the hub was hammered all springs were loose and not just a little. Don't get me wrong Southbend makes a good clutch but nothing will last forever. Best advise ifsdo some research find the clutch that best fits your needs and go with that one.

 

Yikes! That's the first time I've seen that. How many miles?

 

I think clutch life has a lot to do with how you drive the truck, my old Ford had 240k km on it when I sold it, all on the original clutch.

 

I put the 13" SB ConOFE in my last truck. The first pressure plate was bad. It clanked really bad when the pressure plate was engaged and was quiet when you depressed the clutch pedal. The retailer made it good and sent another kit. It was still noisy, but not anything like the first one. It worked good when towing my fiver. Picked up the load easily at idle in first gear. I had 185,000 on the original stock clutch.

Your 35" tires don't help you situation for towing. Your sign does not indicated your rear ratio. If its 3.73, your effective ratio is somewhere in the area of 3.35.

Dave

 

35's are a great idea for the 6 spd IMO, it helps lower the revs while on the highway. If you're thinking it will be harder on the clutch to get rolling you could always start out in 1st which I do while loaded (like everyone I imagine?)

 

There is no doubt one would want to start out in first gear when wearing 315
shoes. The point here is, when the thread starter is towing his 29ft toy hauler and not in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear the load quickly mounts as one goes into 4th, 5th and 6th. In order for him to take advantage of what he has, somewhere in the area of s 3.30 rear ratio with the 315's he would need to stay in 5th while towing. (1 to 1) Runing in 6th at (I'm guessing) at 65mph at 1600 will produce hight EGT's.

I really like the way the 315's look on the single rear wheel trucks. They are not meant to be towed with unless you have a 4.10 or bigger rear ratio. If this was an 48re tranny, the temps would be headed upward as well.

Dave

 

See, that's the part of you argument I don't get. By the time you're in 4th, 5th or 6th the "load" would be less cuz you're already rolling.

I have 35's and tow a trailer, I stay in 6th without a problem, obviously towning up a steep hill the EGT's get high and/or it starts to lug and I gear down, no problem.

If a guy has enough power that he can tow in 6th without lugging (no matter what size his tires are) and without high EGT's what's the problem? Why would he need a lower diff gear ratio?

Lotsa people tow some big weights with a stick running 35's, doing it without an EGT gauge would not be wise.

(BTW, I still start out in 2nd unloaded.)
Is yours an auto Coastal?

 

Mine is a mush box. I drove a NV5600 in my 2000 Dodge Cummins for 9 years.

Most people that run 315's and tow have problems and either go back to the stock tire size or get a bigger rear.

Cummins says your not lugging the engine as long as your in the torque curve.

Here is what I'm talking about as far as load and rpm's. My previous truck had
3.55's. Load is related to fuel burn. In sixth gear at 65mph I would get 10mpg towing my fifth wheel. In fifth gear I would get 13.5mpg running more rpms. That was also 8 mph slower. So, the same thing applies with the 315's if you went back to the stock tires. Less load on the engine.

If you don't have an EGT gauge you would never know whats going on. Cummins and Dodge have indicate the set up in the stock truck will not exceed Max EGT's. The tow rating is predicated on the trucks set up when produced. The larger tires change all that.


Dave

 

Maybe that's true of the 2nd gens but it's pretty easy to get up into the 350-400 HP range with the 3rd gens which is enough power to tow with 35's.

At least a few other people have the same opinion:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ghlight=towing

Anyone who tows should have an EGT gauge, probly a good idea even with a stock motor.

 

I tow fine in 6 with 315's, gear down if and when needed, but not often on freeways, and I stay within reasonable RPM at speed in 5th when you go down one.

You can feel your load in the skinny pedal and drive accordingly. It's not hard to know when you're bringing up EGT's.

Cya

 

I have a SB conOFE in my truck. about 10k worth of miles. It's still a bet grabby and very noisey compared to stock.