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Lets talk about brakes

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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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ib516's Avatar
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Lets talk about brakes

About truck in sig line. I'm getting a noise from my brakes when I apply them, specifically, the driver's side rear wheel. I think I might have a small pebble in the caliper, because it is too soon for the brakes to be worn out as the truck only has 55,000 miles on it, and I'm NOT hard on brakes (unless I am towing the RV). Maybe one of the pads has separated, I don't know. I will have to pull the wheel off and take a look at it.

Anyway, around to my question. I just bought a new 5er which will be 11 or 12K loaded. I might want to upgrade the rotors and pads. I am looking at rotors that are drilled/slotted/dimpled/whatever.

Any suggestions for brands & prices? I am in Canada.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 01:13 PM
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From what I have read about these types of rotors, you may want to re-think your strategy. As I understand, these rotors are only beneficial in true race environments for the dissipation of heat and you won't realize any enhanced performance. It's probably best to just go with a quality set of pads (hard to beat OEM) and quality standard rotors. YMMV.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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No need to do any of that; the OEM brake stuff is really pretty good as is; your noise issue aside.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Find yourself a safe place to backup in and pump the brakes this should eject anything lodged in place.. I would install an exhaust brake before I went with the drilled rotors..
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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Drilling and dimpeling is for bling only. There's no performance advantage at all. Drilled holes create a stress riser, and that creates cracks. You'll be replacing them often.

Slotted rotors act like a cheese grater. They slice off a thin layer of pad material with every pass. In road racing, this is a good thing. On a street truck, it's a bad thing. You'll be replacing pads a lot more often.

Use a quality solid surface rotor, and a good semi-metallic pad. I like carbon metallic pads from Performance Friction. Good performance for the money.

The one big thing that kills brakes and causes fade is heat. If you're experiancing that, you need to fab some cooling ducts. Or change your driving habits.
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Well, aren't you guys a bunch of money savers Thanks.

I don't really have any brake issues (other than the noise). I guess if I need replacement parts, I'll stick with a quality OEM type replacement. I'll let you know what the cause of the noise is when I find out tomorrow.
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Old Apr 9, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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I think the OEM brakes have been fabulous!

at 125,000 miles all of my brake components are original and I've done LOTS of heavy towing. I am very pleased with the factory braking system.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 06:16 AM
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I used powersloted/cryo front brake rotors w/EBC pads and they work well together..I installed this set up for towing,because I smoked the front brakes twice while towing my 5er. First time coming down into Salt Lk city and the other in Monarch Pass,Co..After that trip I did the front brakes and been happy with them..I just bought my BD exhaust brake and BD towloc to put on the truck (sitting in the boxes),I'll put them on in a few weeks,can't wait to try them out!
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 09:18 AM
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Get it checked out quickly. I just helped someone out on Diesel Power forums and they had a similar problem with lots of sound coming from the right rear brake. Come to find out, the brake assembly had performed a "self-destruct sequence" and it cost him about $800 out of pocket.



Kris
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 03:06 AM
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Well, it was windy as heck here (60+ mph) and I do my work outdoors, so the diagnosis has been delayed - that and working nightshifts. The noise is still there and it doesn't sound good. Sounds like metal on metal, and sounds expensive. I'll tear into it tomorrow and update y'all. Definately driver's side rear.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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Coming out of a '98.5,these factory brakes are super. Buy a quality Canadian product(Pacbrake). That'll cure your stopping ills. As far as the noise goes,inspect and correct.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 11:19 AM
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The pads will leave a ridge untouched on the rotor (very small ridge) that will built up a little rust. This ridge will make contact with your pads causing the squeal or chatter you describe. Both my dad and myself had the same issue. I replaced my pads and could have got away with just turning the rotors. The pads were about 50% but I put the new ones on anyway. Then I replaced both calipers one at a time due to failure.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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I had a similar sound coming from my front brakes after 75 000 k. thought the brake pads were done & went to the dealership to buy a set of replacment pads-spend 80 bucks.

After removing & inspecting the brakes- the pads that are there are still good & a long ways from the squealer. I just reassembled & kept going.

I don't know what exactly is causing the sounds-but am not worred about it. Its just a little noise every once in a while. Maybe you have the same issue?
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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IPDiesel,
the linings will harden due to heAt and squeal. Even if the wear is minimal, the brakeing is reduce.
I will agree with Danderson, the Pacbrake is the best nvestment I have made to the rig.
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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Well, I'm guilty. One of the rear pads was completely shot (metal on metal), and the fronts were 30%. I just went ahead and replaced all four corners, they have new raybestos pads now.

Luckily, there was only a small amount of scratching done to the rear rotor. Only one pad was completely gone. I only drove to work for three days with the noise. The other rear pads were pretty thin. The inboard pads were the worn ones.

I found out the fronts must have been changed before, as they had more pad left than the rears.
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