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Just found out I need ball joints.... YIKES

Old Aug 7, 2007 | 01:52 AM
  #31  
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i never checked

with Napa. I did check several of the places on the internet and the greaseable ones weren't available. They said that they are built offset and it changes the camber. I don't know if thats true or not but I ended up getting non greaseable. I bought them from the place at montana this is listed few posts up. They will be OEM.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 01:54 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by rogerL1961
with Napa. I did check several of the places on the internet and the greaseable ones weren't available. They said that they are built offset and it changes the camber. I don't know if thats true or not but I ended up getting non greaseable. I bought them from the place at montana this is listed few posts up. They will be OEM.
well, $219 from Montana is DIRT CHEAP, the greasable ones are about $200 more for all four. I mean, if the stock ones lasted me 70k miles, by me getting the OEM for $219 will surely last a long time.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 06:22 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 53 ******
get this and save yourself A TON OF TIME!!!!!!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335
I wont do them with out it

that tool is HF but it really worked well for me on several ball joints and it is a u joint tool . Ed ke6bnl
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 09:22 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Ed ke6bnl
that tool is HF but it really worked well for me on several ball joints and it is a u joint tool . Ed ke6bnl
for the few times you will use it the harbor freight ball joint press is a must
some HF tools are junk..but some are worth it for using just a few times.
if you where a tech and did it for a living I could see buy a high dollar press.
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 11:09 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 53 ******
for the few times you will use it the harbor freight ball joint press is a must
some HF tools are junk..but some are worth it for using just a few times.
if you where a tech and did it for a living I could see buy a high dollar press.
I can't believe how cheap that kit is. Will it even work once? If so, it's worth it.
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 01:48 AM
  #36  
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well, I just got the ball joints from NAPA for $83 EACH and plus they are greasable which means LIFETIME, so not bad IMO for $83 and a greasable ball joint
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 06:11 AM
  #37  
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do they offset the Camber?

do the greaseable ball joints offset the Camber?
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 09:37 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by rogerL1961
do the greaseable ball joints offset the Camber?
not a clue
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 10:19 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by torquefan
I can't believe how cheap that kit is. Will it even work once? If so, it's worth it.
I have used mine more then I can count....it's done a ton of Ford ball joints in it's day...real old rusted in ball joint come out with ease....

plus it's so cheap you almost cant lose

look at it this way I would NEVER try ball joints with out my HF press it's way more work with out it
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 07:17 PM
  #40  
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Those press' are a must. You can usually rent them at auto parts stores if you only use them a few times or so, but they would be nice to have.

Viking- did you get all the hardware that is neccessary as well? You dont need much, but that kit comes with grade 8 nuts and cotter pins, which "should" be replaced, but often are not. Also, make sure you get some loc-tite and anti seize. Coat everything liberally with anti-seize, so next time it will come apart easier. I did mine at 110,000 miles, and they were a PAIN to get off. Just pay attention to what you are doing. And most importantly, read the post about the Hub bearing, it is very important that you do not seperate this. For as cheap as they are, I would go ahead and do your fornt axle U-joints too, since everything will be apart. Just my $.02. Ill be here if you have questions or need help. I did mine myself last December. Good Luck.

M Sandt
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #41  
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WELL, I just got my PASSANGER side ball joints done, a pretty good shop near by had all the tools with everything needed and the tool that doesnt seprated the bearing and while changing the ball joints, I saw the u-joints werent really that good either, so changed them as well. Now the u-joints and ball joints are all greaseable. Im going back for the drivers side next week if not this week:

Sorry for the blurry camera phone pics. You can see how dry the only U-Joint was with all those sticks (whatever they're called) fallen off.





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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 11:10 PM
  #42  
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those stock u-joints are looking pretty dry....I have seen some that are just dust in the caps
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 11:16 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 53 ******
those stock u-joints are looking pretty dry....I have seen some that are just dust in the caps
yea, well its a goog thing I replaced it
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 12:07 AM
  #44  
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there must be something wrong wtih us

cause I am really enjoying looking at your pictures....

I wish I could have put some greaseable ones on mine. I figure if they last me another 70,000 I will be allright. I won't be driving in water or salt where I live.

The company from Montana shipped them to me just like they said they would and all looks good.

thanks for sharing the photos!!!
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Old Aug 9, 2007 | 10:08 AM
  #45  
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Looking good Viking, but be careful with those bearings. It seems like you are doing just fine, and I am not trying to insult you or talk to you like you dont know what you are doing, but I have seen and heard of the bearings still seperating with the tool made for the job. A lot of people do get lucky and do just fine with that tool, but just watch it, because those hub bearing are about $300-$400 each side! IF it looks like the other side might seperate, maybe give it some help with the method that I spoke of on page one. Also, coat everything liberally with penetrating fluid as it is coming apart and anti seize before you close her back up. Good luck and looks good.

M Sandt
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