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Installing Transgo Shift Kit in a 48RE

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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 09:04 PM
  #31  
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From: Lost Lake, Wis
LOL,
The second one would be SOOOOO much easier! You got beer in your shop??
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #32  
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Man, I wish I had found this sooner. I wouldn't have marred my VB, and it would have made it go sooo much quicker. I had done some searching and found references to a Superior shift kit, but not Transgo in time. Oh well. Great write up!
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 09:16 AM
  #33  
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Put my transgo kit in this weekend along with a Sonnex combo kit from PATC and I am very happy with it. Very nice kit for the money,(I spent more on fluid than on the shift kit by the time I was done) although I would not have wanted to do it without the help of this writeup. The Transgo instructions were full of holes, and you are expected to know how to remove the valve body on your own. So load up your printer with paper and ink and print out the first page of this writeup before attempting a transgo shift kit.

The only snag I ran into was when we got everything back together I could not get it into park, which lead to us taking the VB out and putting it back in several times to see if anything was hanging up. It turned out to be a simple cable adjustment (remove panel under steering column and gently pry free lower "off white" clip to adjust cable length). I couldn't get my head around why this would be out of adjustment after the work we performed, and in the end I just had to accept that it was and move on.
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:08 PM
  #34  
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Thanks wayoff, I'm glad I could help.... Yes the Transgo directions suck!!!
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 11:11 AM
  #35  
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merry xmas! and thx lostlake for this thread! i just got my transgo kit and this will help tons. your right, the instructions absolutely blow! merry xmas again too all!
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:48 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by VADERPOWER
the instructions absolutely blow!
And that Mr Shift guy is kinda beady eyed...
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:22 PM
  #37  
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From: St George Utah
TransGo 48RE almost done Help

The Tapered orifice is too small! At least that is what I can tell. I'm done with the VB and wanting to re- install the VB, but When I get under the truck I find the tapered orifice is too small to drive into the proper orifice in the 48re body/ housing. Did I just get the wrong part or am I screwing up.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #38  
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 04:40 PM
  #39  
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From: Brighton, Co
Originally Posted by Joel.Fogle
The Tapered orifice is too small! At least that is what I can tell. I'm done with the VB and wanting to re- install the VB, but When I get under the truck I find the tapered orifice is too small to drive into the proper orifice in the 48re body/ housing. Did I just get the wrong part or am I screwing up.
The tappered orifice should fit snuggly in to the hole, if the hole is to big then there is something not right.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 06:57 PM
  #40  
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Something is wrong.... It's been a while for me, but that restrictor fit pretty snug. You do have a 48RE and not a 47RE right?
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:36 AM
  #41  
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From: west linn OR
sooooo, ive been dinkin around and still havnt installed my kit yet but im wondering...does drilling both holes, increase line pressure? i kno most guys only drill 1 hole for firmer shifts but does drilling both holes increase pressure thus increwasing shifts and pressure? srry, ive been at my buddys hoouse and tiped back a few! loll
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:38 AM
  #42  
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From: west linn OR
the more pressure the bettert it handles the jr, right?-ish?
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 12:39 AM
  #43  
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From: west linn OR
i mean power upgrades
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 09:08 AM
  #44  
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Line pressure is controlled by the springs on the PR valve, not by drilling holes. You do NOT want to drill the hole for extra firm lockup. That is for the gas transmissions that lack the TQ.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #45  
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so u r saying dont drill either of the 2 holes? thx
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