I built my downpipe with 4" straight off the turbo - no cast elbow, so I need an inline e-brake unless I also find a 325hp 4" DP. Jacobs won't even talk to me about an inline - something about an agreement with Cummins to only sell the turbo mount brake for the Dodges. Pacbrake will piece an inline kit together for my 03 4" but it is way more $$ than the more popular turbo mount kit. They will only sell the controls with the compressor ($572) and they won't seperate them. I just read about manual Pacbrake control on another thread and I don't need the auto warmup thru the ecm. Isn't the e-brake turned on for faster warmup? Do I really need their controls or can I put something together? I'm only familiar with the real Jake brakes on injector pushrod diesels - a microswitch on the throttle to enable the brake only at no-throttle and a manual switch in the cab to turn it on - I used a push/pull 2sp rearend switch on the stick on my OTR truck. If the e-brake is turned on for fast warmup at idle, is a throttle switch even necessary? Will an e-brake kill the engine at idle like the real Jakes on the injector pushrod diesels? Can someone tell me how the operation/controls work for the e-brake on a CR engine, por favor? Also, where are you getting the best price? TIA! Craig

 

How much is Pacbrake getting for their inline "kit" anyway? You might consider these, lots of options:

http://www.usgear.cc/dcelerator.htm

 

About $1500 to piece it together. I don't want US gear cuz of the clanking. Craig

 

I went 5" inline Pac with my 4" exhaust. Just used 4"-5" adapters. The 4" brake is not 4" id and the 5" brake is not 5" id.

I didn't want to choke things down any more than I had to.

By the time you buy all the separate pieces to make the 4" brake, it comes out to like $200 more than the 5" kit.

Let me tell you......this Pac works at least 50% better than the Jacobs it replaced!

 

How choked down are they? What is the I.D. of the 5"? How long is it with the 5"x4" reducers? Where did you get yours? I called Pacbrake again and they said the ecm controls make sure there is no fueling before closing the brake. The brake is either all the way closed or all the way open - no in between. Thanks! Craig

 

Well, all the dealers really frown on a 5" brake so I'll get the 4" - should be fine for my hp. I also found a dealer that knows how to order individual parts. I've been reading about straight manual control/ecm bypass that some guys have. I might just skip the electric controls altogether and operate the brake with a 10 speed Roadranger splitter. Craig

 

The ID of the Pacs run about 1/2" smaller than the pipe. I figured the 4"er would only be 3.5" plus the additional restriction of the flapper valve would equal a lot of blocked area. This is why I went 5".

I had to cut 12" out of the pipe total to fit it in there. I installed it where the cat used to be.

I don't know about bypassing the ECM control. Seems like it would be a PITA to always turn it on and off all the time. You could wire it to the ECM yourself. There is nothing high tech about it. Just make your own wiring harness.

 

Does the brake just go thru dry contacts (two terminals) that open/close in the ecm? Which terminals do I use? Craig

 

Ace, I don't know about their quality but this statement on their home page concerns me. It looks like a deliberate manipulation.

 

Here is the wiring daigram. Piece of cake!

http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L2032.PDF

 

That's a quote out of a magazine article. Marketing fluff. Nothing wrong with the U.S. gear brakes. Great stuff.

 

Thanks for the diagram!

 

I hauled off and ordered the control group... I'm set! Craig