Had the cooler to engine cooler line go bad today and found out backordered to after Christmas sometime! From what parts guy told me supplier that made them went belly up and closed their doors. Anybody run into this? I was going to see if my hydraulic place could make them but don't know what to do about the fittings on front cooler.

 

try the junkyards, like car-part.com or someplace local. there's that one guy on cumminsforum that runs a few yards and is always selling off parts, he may have something. his name is "cummins and rv salvage", and there's a thread in the 3rd gen all parts section. he can probably scrounge up something faster than the parts guys if you dont mind putting a used line on(should be fine really)

 

I just had my transmission lines made up with soft lines, came out cheaper then new oem and i can actually change them when they start leaking. take them your old line and they can cut the fitting out and recrimp it. Thats the only way i could get it done.

 

find a reputable hydraulic shop. We have one up here in AK and I had them make me all new trans lines and power steering lines. They use the arctic rubber for the cold temps up here and I got all the ines made for less than two lines from the dealer.

 

Well tried the used route with zero luck. Took the lines to the biggest hydraulic shop in my area and they told me they can't re-use my fittings as the have no idea who makes them so they have no idea what collars to use. Also found out tranny cooler to engine side cooler has a check valve so converter doesn't drain out? Anyone know who makes these fittings or where I can order them?

 

Didnt I read that there was a recall kit, they had with updated line kit,it had both cooler lines in it,the part number would be diffrent than the original numbers,and I bet its VERY VERY cheap.

I will hunt around for the number.

 

Here is what I found.

Did a little research on the old recall / TSB C-44...that was to replace the old, rigid trans line with the new line with rubber section in the center.

The part number for that line is:

CBLAC441

 

Can you get me some pictures of the lines and their sizes and the fitting you are going to crimp on it. I can probably tell how to crimp them, I really have no idea why someone looking at them can't figure it out. It's not like they are taking 4000psi.

 

Same problem here. Mine is leaking at the check valve connector. I am considering lopping off the connectors on both ends of the hose, installing compression fittings with barb connectors ( http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...s-p-17236.html ) and putting on new hose. Anybody see any problem with that? I'm sure the check valve is there for a reason though right? Any problem with removing it? Thanks

 

I remember reading somewhere a while back that it was a good idea to remove this check valve because it can go bad and prevent ATF from circulating through the transmission cooler burn up the trans. I don't know if that is true or not and I haven't done it. It seems that the only drawback you might have from bypassing the check valve is it will take a few moments for the truck to get moving when you first start it and drop it in gear while the converter fills with ATF.

 

remove that check valve it can get plugged and start to leak. have you tried taking it apart and using thread sealant to get it to stop leaking? mine was a pita to get to stop leaking but i did after some persistance. i drilled the brass out bit by bit and my check ball came out eventually. there is a thread on this somewhere in here i think its under check ball removal

 

Not that hard to make up your own lines with the screw together fittings, I made all the lines on my rock crawler for the full-hydro steering. Did this a couple of years ago and they do not leak at all. I picked up the fittings and hose from PSC Motorsports but you should be able to pick them up at a hydraulic shop.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/index.php