We don't currently have the special socket, and were going to try with regular sockets.. Just trying to not strip out the bolts on the sealed bearing unit.. I will update the site after we break into it...

 

Also I called NAPA for the sealed unit bearing, they actually have it in stock for about $175... should I stay away or is that still a pretty good deal ??


Thanks

Tim

 

Well my buddy and I tried for a couple of hours last night and just ran out of ideas... We could not get the sealed bearing unit off... The power steering was bending the metal that we were pushing against (on the frame) with the socket extension. We got the metal good and hot also, no go. We could not get it to budge.

I am taking it into the shop today, at least if they have to cut the old unit off they can warranty the work, even though it cost more....

Why did they not put anti seize on this, I will never know!!! :^(

Tim

 

Ok, Last update....

Got the work done last night. They had to heat it a lot and ruin the sealed bearing unit to get it off. I watched and they had to use a chisel on the air hammer to get it apart... What a job! At least my other side looks ok for now so I can save to get it done later. :^)

Tim

 

i paid a 4x4 shop a little over 400$ and they put new seals in i think it was well worth it.

 

I replaced both front wheel bearings using the power steering, the key is a socket and a small extension to bind to to the knuckle not the frame. Total replacement cost for both front bearings and both front U-joints and all 4 ball joints was under $400. I ordered everything off ebay, used XRF ball joints for $99. Wheel bearings were $99 a piece. These were the exact same wheel bearings I ogt a the local napa last time for $500 a piece a few years back. Only have about 2000 miles on it since I changed everything but so far so good.

 

Well as I said in an earlier post, this was the weekend for new ball joints. New upper and lower joints, new universal joints, and brake pads took about 5 1/2 hours of work. Not a real easy job, but also not something that anyone with a little ability shouldn't be able to do. ( I know this, because a have just a little ability). The hub removal is where most of the fun can be had. We chose to use a cold chisel with a very mild taper and wedged it on the ears of the hub. The first side took about 10 minutes and the second side went a little easier probably because we had experience with the first one. If you do it this way you can expect that you will do some damage to the dust shields, but nothing a little hammer work wont fix. I think the universal joints were way harder. One of them required heating with a torch before we could press them out. All in all I am happy to say I would definitely do it again rather than have the dealership rape me. I can also tell you that I will be sleeping good tonite as I am getting way too old for this. (I turned 68 this month). So I say go for it and don't forget to buff those surfaces and use plenty of anti seize.

 

Te snap-on socket is just a bit for a air hammer that fits over the head of the bolt and onto the shoulder on the bolt. i tried to use it when i did the ball joints on my truck and it didnt work. this may have been the air hammers fault because i felt that it was lacking on power and purchased a new one shortly after. the steering method works best. but if all else fails get a bigger hammer!!!!

 

I have tried many methods and nothing works as well or as quickly as the power steering method. The trick I use to avoid damaging the bearing is to leave the axle nut tight until you get the bearing assembly broken loose from the knuckle. This will prevent the bearing from coming apart. In fact, if I am not replacing the bearing assembly, I will leave the axle shaft attached and remove them as an assembly. It is even possible to replace the u-joint while the bearing assy. is still attached to the axle shaft.

 

Weird so many have so much issue getting it off. Both sides, I think it took me longer to remove the rotor, because I couldn't use the BFH on it I just put a puller on it, about 200 ft/lbs and hit it in the sweet spots, takes about 2 mins tops and it's off. First side took me about 4 hours to replace u-joint because it was my first time, second side wheel off to back on in 2 hours. Although I think ball joints will be this year so will get the joy of removing them again.

 

Snap on tool DHP1.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

 

From what I can tell the NAPA units seem to be holding up well. Replaced them on my old mans 04.5 3500 about 60k miles ago. No qualms here.