That ball joint press does not work, not big enough. It will work for the U-joints.
I will look for the part number and place it was the tool warehouse I think.

 

I think this was the only tool I needed to order.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-8031.html
The run free shipping and you get many other axle ball joint cups to. So you can sell them or rent it to friends or what ever. I know there are others that sell the press and a few cups to fit the dodge but I was after the warrenty and price for what you get, before I even used mine a friend cooked me a steak dinner, beer and a cigar just to use it on his dana 44.

The rest of the tools can be had at a parts stores or sears, I like sears, the local one will let you park close to the door and take tools out to do a test for say to see if it is what you need. Some of the bolts on our truck or metric and I find some to be standard. The new ball joints can be both.
So if you don't want to get a big set of 3/4 sockets and only want one they will sell you one. Some people will make tools for this need and get the socket and weld a bar to it. Would save you 50$ or more.

Any more questions just shoot I will try to give them a shot.

 

Don't know about that but you can try to look at them on photobucket
http://s256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Dodge%20Truck/
Let me know if this does not work.

 

How big is the one you have? Mine has a bit over 6" inside the frame, and I thought I saw on another thread where someone used one... Holding it up to the truck, it looks like it should be (just) long enough?

 

thanks for sharing... hope I don't need these instruction very soon...

 

I am having my ujoints replaced on thursday, I was tempted to try them myself, but I heard if you pull out the wheel bearing (maybe thats the wrong part I am thinking of) and it seperates, you have to buy a totally new one at 350 a piece. so my question is, when they have everything apart, and find out that the bearings need to be replaced ANYWAY, can I have them do ujoints, bearings, and then save the ball joints for myself to work on (to save some money in labor) or would that not make any sense?

 

The problem is that they will not tak it slow getting the rotor off and the bearing off and the may be just fine, but they use the BFH and you get a call telling you that the bearing and rotor need to be replaced on each side for a total of 350 to 400 each bearing and 100 for each rotor that is what I was told could happen when I went to Dodge... So I did it my self and took my time He did not know the trick to getting the bearing off and said the only way is heat and a BFH..... Bull.... That is why I used the wood block and also pushed the bearing off, no way to damage it...
Just follow what I did and ask if you have questions and give your self 3-5 hrs to do the first side do the second the next day or week if you want..... Only do one side at a time..... I would bet you will save 1000$ or more..

 

Mine is about 10" .... The cups are 4" in some of the pic.
I'm not sure that a small one would fit it.
I think I have the smaller one also you are talking about, hint my name, gadget..... If you can find a picture of what you are talking about I will look at it and see if it looks like the big one or small and what cups. Some push on the studs and you DO NOT want that, it will sure screw up your new ball joints. Its OK for pulling old ones out.

 

It looks like mine has like 2" or a little deeper cups.

As long as you can push on the stud with the end of the screw (which has a ball bearing and little pad that turns) I think it will work.

When the time comes, I guess if it doesn't work I think my auto parts place rents them reasonably.

 

When you get your new ball joints just make sure the side that pushes, fits one side, and the ball joint will fit inside the other and you should be fine..

 

grease your bearings while they are out too!!!

 

I don't take the hub/bearing/axle assembly apart when doing ball joints I just take the 4bolts out and pull the whole assembly. It's alot quiker but a little heavy.

 

True but it is only one hut to pull off and only takes a second to break loose. If you don't it the hub loost from the axle then you need to pull the line for the anti lock brakes and that can open lots more problems with junk getting inside it. Also more of a chance to damage the axle seal when you replace the axle. If you Undo the big nut for the axle then you just set the hub to the side under the brake caliper. No need to unhook it. That is what I show in the pic but there are many ways.
Just a thought.

 

How, they are a sealed unit....