2003 SO. Stuck with 5th wheel in Monterey, CA.

Over the last month I've been having trouble with cold starts (30-40 degrees).

Changed the batteries 3 weeks ago...Optima Red Tops.

It's at a shop. So far we have:
1. Changed the Airdog fuel filter.
2. Verified the Airdog is delivering 13-14 PSI to CP3
3. Measured AMPs on the Optima's 790 and 800.
4. Measured voltage at 11.8 and 11.8 (been doing alot of cranking)
5. Cracked the common rail ports to each cylinder and verified fuel flow.
6. Tested glow plugs. Mechanic says they are not cycling. Block temp was 46 degrees. He attached a bypass to the glow plugs, straight from the battery and cycled them twice for 10 seconds...still wouldn't start. Not sure his bypass set up was working right???
7. Only code was low voltage to the engine brake controller.

Tomorrow he is going to test the common rail pressure (has to borrow a gauge).

Questions:
1. Will it start w/o glow plugs at 35-45 degree block temp? Is that were we should focus effort?
2. What common rail pressure should we read when trying to start?
3. If CP3 checks OK (someone please verifypsi#)....on the common rail test port). Do we start looking at injectors??
4. Do CP3 normally just fail or do they sometime start delivering low pressure.
4. Is the 11.8 voltage a problem?
5. ANYTHING ELSE WE SHOULD BE LOOKING AT???

Thanks in advance for any ideas!

 

Find a different mechanic, your truck does NOT have Glow Plugs!

It has grid heaters but they are not needed at that temp....

Check your Injectors and the Pressure relief valve.....

 

Plug the trucks block heater in. Let it simmer for a couple of hours and the truck should start. IF you don't have a block heater cord, buy one at a cummins or big truck shop. Should cost you about 15-20 dollars. If it starts, you have an injector that is leaking and will need to do a return flow test on each one to determine which one is bad. Due to the high return flow you can't build enough rail pressure so the truck won't start.

Do a search on here, you will find a block heater cord installation thread that will show you what to do.

 

Should reap 5000 psi to start the truck from the RP sensor.

 

I've had an injector electrical issue cause a no start more than once. I have learned after the basics ohm each injector AT the plug not the injector

 

Never used the block heater. On the 2003, read the adapter is already there, all I need to do is remove the cover (somewhere near the turbo) and plug in an extension cord.

Is that correct??

 

No you need the actual cord that mates to the block heater....my money is on it being an injector problem though and while a grid heater might help it start, you still have a problem that needs to be addressed as it should easily start at 30 with no grid heater.

 

Got it.
1. Try the grid heater cord (if I can find one). If it starts then:
2. Ohm test the injectors at the plug to rule out electrical.
3. Return flow test on each injector.

Assuming if the rail pressure is just below 5000, then that also indicates an injector leaking by.

Does that sound like a good plan of attack for tomorrow.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Just a quick note, rail pressure is checked electronically not with a gauge, make sure he doesn't hook a actual gauge with hose to it. Have you checked the oil quality? I would verify rail pressure with scan tool, if its low install a relief valve block and recheck pressure, if It's still low do a return test. If rail pressure is fine I would ohm out each injector and eliminate electrical issues. In all honesty, I probably wouldn't go for the block heater cord. I usually have them in the shop tho.
Not trying to make it confusing or question anyone else. Just saying that's what I would do in my shop.

 

Isn't there a test port on top of the common rail for a HP gauge?

Truck didn't show any codes for low rail pressure. Last cold hard start two days ago, blew a bunch of black smoke.

Oil was tested 500 miles ago by Blackstone. Not issues at all.

Not sure I'll find a grid heater cord in a part store here in Monterrey...not much demand. I'll call around tomorrow AM. If anyone has one, I'll give it a shot and then keep it under the seat.

 

No test port. All done electronically.
An injector could crack at anytime causing fuel contamination but I doubt that's you issue. I would do the basic test then ohm the injectors and do a battery of electrical test on the injector circuit lol. Sounds like your mechanic needs a better scan tool.

 

Fire your idiot mechanic!

Basic 101 mechanics are to get a scanner on it check codes. Rail pressure can be checked via scanner

I don't have a grid heater on my truck and it starts fine even at -10 degrees. I'd look at your FCA if it were my truck.

 

Fca would usually throw a low rail code if causing a no start. But if he saw a black puff on start up it very well could be one. I've got a few used ones lol.

 

I've got my old FCA under the seat. Put a new one in 6 months ago and it cured a stumble when starting cold. Old one worked but caused a rough start and small puffs of white smoke at idle when cold. Worth adding to the list of things to try tomorrow. Thanks Deputydog.

 

Only code it shows is low voltage to the engine brake controller