3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Harmonic vibration

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Old May 5, 2012 | 09:31 AM
  #16  
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Oh I can feel it. It'll put your feet to sleep in 10 min at 62mph
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Old May 5, 2012 | 07:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by DodgeRam24V

Duck, the pulley size is different for the fan, is it to change or will it change the fan RPM?

I'd like to speed mine up on the 99 to help keep it cool towing stuck in traffic in hot weather.
The pully diameter is still the same. It has an offset to clear the increased diameter of the damper.

I don't know if the damper and pulley will work on a 99.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #18  
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Well, it sounds like this is the problem I have with my 5.9! I started a separate thread and then stumbled on this. Just ordered the 6.7 damper. pulley, and bolts from the local Cummins center. Parts should be in on Friday and in the following week. I guess the good bews is the fan had been removed when they did the cam so it SHOULD come right off.............right?


Since this is an in vehicle repari:

Anything I MUST remove to get the damper and pulley out/in?
Can I leave the fan shroud?
Do you have to remove the fan?

Any tips appreciated.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by papaduck
If you decided to replace the harmonic damper then go with the fluid damper for the 6.7L. Parts at Cummins are just under $300. You will have to replace the fan pully and 4 bolts.

Damper p/n 4933224 ~$227
Fan Pulley p/n 4930580 ~$50
Bolts (4) p/n 4937228 ~$3 ea
Defiantly the way to go! It's nearly as good as the fluidamper, much cheaper, and lets you change the belt without removing the damper.

The bolts are not required.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by AH64ID
Defiantly the way to go! It's nearly as good as the fluidamper, much cheaper, and lets you change the belt without removing the damper.

The bolts are not required.
The bolts are about 1/4 inch longer, I would not use the old bolts.

I had to lower the fan but did not take it out after I got it loose to get the pulley out. I had replaced my fan clutch last year and used the tools from AutoZone. I flared the 36mm wrench and did not get the fan loose, had to use a hammer and chisel.
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Old May 7, 2012 | 07:35 PM
  #21  
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I thought a torque to yield bolt was one time use?
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Old May 7, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #22  
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They are not TTY bolts, and are reusable. The longer 6.7 bolts are only needed if you add the 6.7 barring tool, otherwise the 5.9 bolts are fine.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 07:36 AM
  #23  
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From: Upstate NY
Originally Posted by AH64ID
They are not TTY bolts, and are reusable. The longer 6.7 bolts are only needed if you add the 6.7 barring tool, otherwise the 5.9 bolts are fine.
Unless the words in the manual have different meanings, the bolts are TTY, or stretch bolts.

INSTALLATION
1. Install speed indicator ring.
NOTE: The speed indicator ring is located over a dowel pin.
2. Install the crankshaft damper and bolts. Tighten bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque, plus an additional 60°.NOTE: The damper must be installed so the hole is located over the dowel pin.
3. Install the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
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Old May 8, 2012 | 07:58 AM
  #24  
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This is not TTY, as the bolts aren't stretch bolts. Its a TTT or wrench arc method.

When using bolts that are TTY and stretch you can feel it, and the new bolts I used on mine and the old on my dads were not any different.

Fluidamper mentions nothing about new bolts in their instructions and TDR write-ups mention reusing the bolts.

There are plenty of places where the service manual tells you not to reuse a bolt, and this isn't one of them. Nothing in the Cummins portion of the SM is labeled at TTY. Our head bolts are the same way, and they can be reused and specifically states the criteria for it.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 08:47 AM
  #25  
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From: NW Arkansas
I did notice that the indicator ring and the fluid damper is about 3/16 inch thicker than the OE damper.
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Old May 8, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #26  
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From: Upstate NY
AH64ID:

Thanks. After re-reading some other portions of the SM I see that Cummins uses this method throughout. I just never looked to see if there was a bolt stretch figure or not. Learn something new every day
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Old May 8, 2012 | 12:27 PM
  #27  
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No problem, that's the great thing about these forums.
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Old May 10, 2012 | 10:48 AM
  #28  
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The Fluidampr was delivered yesterday.

Installation was not difficult and required only a few tools;
13 mm combo wrench
15mm 1/2" drive socket
1/2" breaker bar
1/2" ratchet

Loosen the lower section of the fan shroud by removing the two 13mm nuts at the support. Remove belt from a/c compressor and pull slack around dampener. Remove 4 15mm bolts from dampener and support it, it may fall off. Remove dampener by finessing through fan blades and make a note where alignment pin in crank is. Coat new part's sleeve with antiseeze and finesse it up back through the fan (a little more difficult because it is a physically bigger part). Put pin in hole that aligns with TDC. Tighten bolts, pull belt back around a/c clutch, put two nuts to fan shroud back on and you're done.

Started truck, noticed that idle vibrations were different. Felt like the larger "stumbles" were no longer present. I do still feel vibrations but they are consistent and verry tame. When I took her for a drive I felt as though the big issue vibration was a lot different! You can still feel the truck enter that vibration range but within a split second it smooths out. I'll be hooking up the trailer for the true test shortly and will post back. So far so good....
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Old May 10, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #29  
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Glad to hear it went smooth.
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Old May 10, 2012 | 02:11 PM
  #30  
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The 6.7 parts should be in tomorrow. Total cost for all the parts $311.09 from Cummins NE. Appreciate the step by step junebug95628. Takes the guess work out of the equation.
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